steel 16' wheels

[yogi]

So I was planning to upgrade to 16 inch wheels on my '91 HDJ81.

Any idea where I would get a set of steel wheels from? Google has not been overly helpful and I don't want to buy Chinese sh1te that needs about a kilo of lead to balance!

 

[Shayne]

Not much of a website but i found these guys great on the phone , good on price and delivery was extremely quick . http://www.extremeoffsetwheels.com/

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

If you go OEM 80 steels be aware they weigh 20 kg each. I suspect Modulars weigh less but why would you not want some 16" OEM alloys? they are very strong, look the part and you can get refurbed ones from K.Web reasonably priced.( OEM's weigh 9.6 Kg).
Just my thoughts.

Andy

 

[karl webster]

Cheers mr Lomas

 

[yogi]

I see where your going Andy, but I would prefer steel because they are easier to fix if they get bent and don't crack either. I'm really trying to build an overlanding vehicle really, so I thought steel would be better!?

@KArl, don't suppose you have a set of OEM steelies in stock by any chance??

 

[karl webster]

I've never seen a cracked 80 rim yet and I've seen wheels that have had a fair smash.

The Toyota genuine wheels are very strong.

I don't think I have a set of steels at the min but I will have a look.

 

[yogi]

Thanks Karl, I just have a natural aversion to alloys because I have cracked a couple over the years, on cars on the road!

And seeing as I want to put 16 on to replace the 15's, I reckon I might as well get the steelies!

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Everyone has their own opinions on this steel/alloy wheel debate. My opinion is that the OEM alloys are very strong for their weight. Although someone may know otherwise I've never heard of an OEM wheel failing under extreme conditions. If you do enough to bend a steel wheel you will have goosed the tyre and would have to change it anyway and probably done damage elsewhere. I do see the argument from the steel wheel side but would you be carrying the equipment to straighten the wheel anyway? would you get it straight? you might as well be carrying a spare alloy at 9.6 kg. At the end if it you might as well have a set of split rims ( very strong) like a lot of Aussies favour for the outback.
There was a post a while back from an Aussie mag comparing OEM steels/after market steels/OEM alloys/ after market alloys for strength and durability and the after market alloys came out top.
If you find it, it is a very interesting and informative read.

Andy

 

[karl webster]

Totally agree with alloys cranking on normal cars.

I have run 19 inch alloys on my Bm Audi etc and have had major issues with the cracking. A lot of time it's because there not OEM though.

Each to there own though.

 

[Shayne]

I bet your BMW and AUDI didn't have over 3 stone of rubber protecting each wheel Karl i reckon it would take some very serious high speed off-road abuse to damage any wheel with that much wrapping !

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

there is a world of difference between 19"car alloys and OEM 16" alloys, no comparison at all.

Andy

 

[karl webster]

Shayne 235.35.19 pot hole = cracked wheels over and over. Hated them. Looked nice though

Your right andy, nothing like at all.

Ill have a look for steelies though Liam.

 

[Scott]

Thanks Karl, I just have a natural aversion to alloys because I have cracked a couple over the years, on cars on the road!

And seeing as I want to put 16 on to replace the 15's, I reckon I might as well get the steelies!

Don't. My advice would be to get the OEM Toyota 16" alloys, they're as strong as you'll ever need. I have BFG KM2's on the OEM Toyota steels, BFG AT's on OZ Racing alloys and road tyres on OEM Toyota 16" alloys. When I fit the KM2's and steels you really feel the difference, the 80 isn't as lively off the mark, and you can really notice the additional rotating mass when your slowing down, you have to apply more force than usual to stop that last 10mph - 0mph.

I bought the steels for the KM2's as I wanted a tough wheel for off road work, and kept the road tyres for normal use (the AT's were a later addition), the KM2's and steels have been to the Pyrenees twice and across the country to Lincomb on many occasions. The last time I went to the Pyrenees I vowed that I wouldn't do such a long trip on that wheel and tyre combo again, too much weight and rotating mass. Shortly after the AT's were bought for trip use.

Would I buy the steels again? No, I'd have another set of the OEM Toyota 16" alloys.

I see where your going Andy, but I would prefer steel because they are easier to fix if they get bent and don't crack either. I'm really trying to build an overlanding vehicle really, so I thought steel would be better!?

Are you planning to overland anywhere particularly tough?

The Toyota alloys have been all over, carrying heavily loaded 80's on rough roads and tracks without issue. Paul at Onelife Adventure has been using an 80 with the Toyota 16" alloys for years, and as far as I'm aware he's never had a problem. He covers a lot of rough terrain every year, and doesn't feel the need for the steels.

When you look at the OEM Toyota alloy closely, off the vehicle, you can see how thick the ali is and how much strength has been designed into it. I wouldn't think twice about driving anywhere on one.

If your planning on going remote enough that you require a 2nd spare, two steels rims is a lot of weight to be carting around.

 

[Towpack]

Totally agree on the OE 16" alloys. Having just had mine refurbed I gave them a real close inspection and reckon they're some of the strongest alloys I've ever seen on a vehicle when you look at the strengthening round the hub and the thickness of the webs. They're not just a cosmetic option, they're designed with purpose, that being off road driving.
My Dad had M series alloys on a 3 series Beemer a few years back and knackered one on a pothole. JMO

 

[Paddler Ed]

Everyone has their own opinions on this steel/alloy wheel debate. My opinion is that the OEM alloys are very strong for their weight. Although someone may know otherwise I've never heard of an OEM wheel failing under extreme conditions. If you do enough to bend a steel wheel you will have goosed the tyre and would have to change it anyway and probably done damage elsewhere. I do see the argument from the steel wheel side but would you be carrying the equipment to straighten the wheel anyway? would you get it straight? you might as well be carrying a spare alloy at 9.6 kg. At the end if it you might as well have a set of split rims ( very strong) like a lot of Aussies favour for the outback.
There was a post a while back from an Aussie mag comparing OEM steels/after market steels/OEM alloys/ after market alloys for strength and durability and the after market alloys came out top.
If you find it, it is a very interesting and informative read.

Andy

Is this the article that you're thinking of; as soon as I saw the thread I thought of the article.

With the wheels in Australia, a lot of the guys run the Sunraysia-type wheels; I've now got a set of Dynamic steelies on my 4Runner; each one is rated at 1150kg.

I'd probably have preferred to get a set of alloys, but we didn't like the ones that were on offer in the right size (and right price). I also need to work out the offset on mine, and get a spare to match as at the moment I have different sized spare.

 

[Rob]

I have hit some serious pot holes/trenches/8" rocks at speed, sometimes so hard that my passenger hit the roof with seatbelt on and my OEM alloys still run true (checked recently on balancing machine). I have even hit them with a very big hammer when participating in a demo on how to change a tyre in the bush and they were fine. I have heard of plenty alloys failing but never an 80 16" OEM wheel. Lots of people use them for overlanding and the ones that don't only do so as they have never tried abusing 80 series alloys.

If you go with modulars you may end up with weaker wheels, if you want the ultimate strength go with the OEM steels but as others have said they add at least 50KG of rotating mass to the vehicle. If you are weight concious and want a very strong wheel stick with the OEM alloys.

 

[Gary820]

They do seem a well made/designed alloy and not heavy at all, I see a lot of cracked alloys at work and I a lot is due to the design of them.

 

[Shayne]

I agree with everything said supporting oem alloys but feel the only downside of steels is weight , most of us run oversized rubber so we would have to be moving at very high speed on virtually flat tyres and hit something so hard that suspension components were in danger of damage to actually dent a steel or crack an alloy . But i would say that as i have steel wheels For me i like the look of steel and at around 40 quid a corner delivered next day ...................

 

[jonnyboy54321]

Get the alloys bought and Karl has some 16" km2's for sale.
Sorted.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

I'll second that motion
KWeb wheel and tyre combo,sorted!!

Andy