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steel heater pipe on block 4.2 Diesel

Andy200

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HELP Needed steel heater pipe on block 4.2 Diesel

Right I've just sprung a leak from the coolant system, it is a pin hole in a steel pipe at the back right (looking from front) of the engine. Is this the heater hose that people have said to watch out for ??. Also does anybody know how it comes out as I can't see how it is fixed in to the block.


Cheers Andy.
 
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I think this is the coolant feed to the rear heater unit underneath the centre console. The pipes run down the back of the engine and along the OS sill. If you don't need or want the rear heater you can just bypass the unit by cutting the pipes at the rear of the engine bay and linking them together.
 
Thanks for your help. i'm home now so taken a couple of pics if this helps identify it.It is squirting out of the inside (towards the block) and i presume the steel pipe is an interference fit in the block as there are no clamps that hold it in.

IMG_2804.jpg



IMG_2803.jpg
 
you can see the hole now it's the little black mark in the middle of the pipe. I'm going to attempt to weld it up before i do anything else.

IMG_2809.jpg
 
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Can you push the hose (or a longer piece of hose) further down around the bend and put the jubilee clip on there?

Alternatively this stuff is excellent.

http://youtu.be/QYdfy4j83dw

For the record, I have a connection with the company that supplies it.
 
Hopefully i have managed to get some weld on the pipe so i'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. I still can't find any info on whether you can change this pipe though.
 
Is it the pipe that exists the block on the intake side between No. 5 and 6 cylinders? If so it is available as a separate part (Pipe water bypass....16278-17010) but can't find anything in either the FSM, Haynes or Max Ellery manuals about how it locates. I suspect you're probably right with your assumption of an interference fit with some sort of sealing paste etc.
 
It may be a push fit but dont think that given where it is that you will be able to persuade it to come out. they usually come out with a sharp jar form a hammer and a piece of wood. Self fusing tape may be difficult to apply so I would go for epoxy putty..
 
I've used Stag paste to fit core plugs on engines so maybe this would do?
 
Well the part is ordered £25 from Toyota and according to them it is just a tap in fit, ha ha we will see this weekend.
 
What's everybody used to glue the new pipe in? stag? Or similar welch plug bond? And is it a interference fit?
 
Loctite would do I think. I, for one, would be very interested to see the progress on this.
Good luck Andy.
 
I finished this job on mine on the weekend. Pipe was and absouloute shocker to get out! MY advice to anyone else would be make yourself plenty of room remove the oil filter, batteries ect. Ended up using a gimpy and a big flat blade screwdriver and just persist untill you can get the lip to move away ftom the block, then just wiggled out with vice grips. Froze the new pipe over night in the freezer and used threebond welch plug adhesive to glue back in( won't bond inside the water jacket)
 
Wow what a bitch of a job. Thanks for letting us know that the pipe actually is replaceable. Do you have video of the fight?
 
I’m in the midst of this today. Can I ask what a gimpy is? Assuming not a general purpose machine gun.
Though I may be ready to reach for one.
Have made good bit of space, dipstick tube may have moved a bit too much creating another issue later.
Alwyn
 
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