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STEERING WHEEL STUCK

Michael Montgomery

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
Messages
2,577
Garage
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uk
Hi guys unfortunately had a buzzare issue with my steering wheel seizing up & not lettting go.
Hasn't been on there long like 6 months and only wanting to correct it once I had the tracking aligned last year.
Been a issue to get the bugger off not having a issue with the previous one for years.
Tried pulling it off, WD40 and then proceeded to make a pull & push device to ply it off. Still no luck then bought ROCKEZE to help as a last resort. Left over night then no luck.
Connected the device up again & still no go!!
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

IMG_4545.JPG IMG_4546.JPG IMG_4547.JPG IMG_4548.JPG
 
Centralise the steering by adjusting the steering arm Dervis, the one from the Pitman arm (steering box) to one of the wheels, unless you really need to remove the wheel from the spline for some other reason.

The only other thing to try is heat, but it needs to be very hot and quick, otherwise you'll damage the steering wheel plastic/trim. A gob of electric weld will get the wheel metal hot and then use some ice on the spline.

Don't know what else to suggest mate.
 
Mmmmmmn ? I think I'd be inclined to get your device under as much tension/compression as you can and then give the Cap bolt a good hit end on ( not with a sledge hammer though) this should work. If this fails I'd turn to gentle heat. Good luck.

BTW Dervis I've not forgotten about your bits, will advise ASAP>

Andy
 
Centralise the steering by adjusting the steering arm Dervis, the one from the Pitman arm (steering box) to one of the wheels, unless you really need to remove the wheel from the spline for some other reason.

The only other thing to try is heat, but it needs to be very hot and quick, otherwise you'll damage the steering wheel plastic/trim. A gob of electric weld will get the wheel metal hot and then use some ice on the spline.

Don't know what else to suggest mate.

Your right there Clive the steering arms has been all aligned before & just need a slight adjustment on the steering wheel to all be corrected.
Looks like some heat is needed being the last resort I know but also the most concerning not to damage any of the leather / plastics.

Thanks Clive
 
:violence-minigun:
Mmmmmmn ? I think I'd be inclined to get your device under as much tension/compression as you can and then give the Cap bolt a good hit end on ( not with a sledge hammer though) this should work. If this fails I'd turn to gentle heat. Good luck.

BTW Dervis I've not forgotten about your bits, will advise ASAP>

Andy

Tried full tension Andy & hitting the top with a small hammer. Turned the wheel whilst on & tried to yank it off too.
Dam bugger proving to be set in its ways.....lol
Next port of call HEAT !! :violence-minigun:

Thanks Andy
 
Your right there Clive the steering arms has been all aligned before & just need a slight adjustment on the steering wheel to all be corrected.
Looks like some heat is needed being the last resort I know but also the most concerning not to damage any of the leather / plastics.

Thanks Clive

I'm not sure what you mean Dervis, it sounds back to front.

The wheel to spline will give you increments (spline by spline) whereas the adjustment on the steering arm can be as great or small as you wish.

So if it's only alignment you need, then I'd leave the wheel stuck to the spline and fine tune centralization by adjusting the steering arm.

Of course, if you want the wheel off for other reasons, then press on (sorry, pun not intended, press off maybe).
 
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Leave it under full tension on your puller. Put a heavy blanket over it and leave it so it gets hot and cold. Are you certain you are pressing down on the shaft with that ally bar and it's not bottoming out against the wheel?

The blanket? That's to catch it all when it goes bang and flies off into your passenger compartment.
 
Before using the hot spanner protect any plastics/leather with wet towels
 
Before using the hot spanner protect any plastics/leather with wet towels

Yep, that works.

In the old days, we'd make a papier-mache out of torn up egg boxes (but with no glue) and use that as a heat sink...

It worked great when gas-welding thin panels, reducing distortion.
 
You need a proper puller. That's a Mouse one you have there. Then hit the centre screw HARD.

Re; Steering. The wheel should have equal number or turns full lock to full lock and the indicator stalk should cancel each side at exactly the same degrees. Then you set up the rest of the steering. If that's so no point in taking the wheel off.
 
You need a proper puller. That's a Mouse one you have there. Then hit the centre screw HARD.

Re; Steering. The wheel should have equal number or turns full lock to full lock and the indicator stalk should cancel each side at exactly the same degrees. Then you set up the rest of the steering. If that's so no point in taking the wheel off.

That's what I was aiming at Frank, you've just come out with better wording. I got upset with my Service for moving my wheel on the shaft, made them put it back and centered it myself on the steering arm.
 
I was thinking the same about the puller Frank. I often try and get something to shift only to resort to my trusty hydraulic puller and have it fall apart with ease. You can't hit those though!
 
You can't get a fine enough thread on a traditional puller to produce enough force sometimes.
 
Thank you guys for you advice & input.
Firstly I have the correction arms set already aligned & they said they couldn't correct the steering on there anymore Clive.
Just wondering Richard if there is any leeway to correct this with the steering box. My mechanic is on holiday so that question is on hold for now.
Alternatively last resort is to heat the wheel with safely precautions.

Mission status : INCOMPLETE
 
You can't get a fine enough thread on a traditional puller to produce enough force sometimes.

Unfortunately this homemade device in Cyprus was the best I could do Frank not having access to buy parts readerly.

Everyone's been surprised including me to why it's been so subburn!!
 
I guess you could try freezer spray down the centre bolt hole. I'm still thinking that Square bar is doing no good. You need something smaller than the steering column shaft as it looks in the photo like the square is on the steering wheel itself. Difficult to tell so I may well be wrong here.
 
Thank you guys for you advice & input.
Firstly I have the correction arms set already aligned & they said they couldn't correct the steering on there anymore Clive.
Just wondering Richard if there is any leeway to correct this with the steering box. My mechanic is on holiday so that question is on hold for now.
Alternatively last resort is to heat the wheel with safely precautions.

Mission status : INCOMPLETE

Forgive me Dervis, I still don't understand the first part of your post above.

When you talk about steering alignment, this is set by adjustment of the track control arm going from one wheel to the other. This sets toe-in or toe-out or otherwise the relativity between each wheel.

This is wholly independent of where the steering wheel/steering box is positioned, it can even be set with the steering arm totally disconnected.

That is not the issue here and I had/have no intention to interfere with your steering alignment.

My advice is to adjust the steering arm (it's a different member) which runs from the steering box (Pitman arm) to one of the wheels. That arm (and only that arm) sets the relationship of the wheels to the steering wheel.

It means that your steering alignment guys haven't understood, or they don't know what they're talking about, or more likely can't be bothered, because adjusting the steering arm to centralize the steering wheel is so simple, technically and practically. You simply slacken the clamp bolts on the ball joints at each end and rotate the shaft, until the steering wheel is central, then you tighten them again.

I've done it on many occasions when the alignment has been adjusted asymmetrically, which itself is not correct, but generally not a problem, it just means you have to re-adjust the centralization of the steering wheel, as in your case, and the many times I've been faced with the same problem.
 
Sometimes a picture helps - this is where I think Clive is talking about.

whiteps.jpg
 
Spot on Grant, there's only one arm from the Pitman down to the wheel to adjust.

What's the photo of though, Grant? Looks like a 60 series...
 
YYY
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