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The 95 Prado TX - Keeping it practical !


Well-Known Member
Sep 21, 2012
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Well I picked it up a week or two ago now from Stumog (top lad :thumbup: ) but only managed so start driving it two days ago due to a issue with my insurance company !

Its a 1997 LWB Prado TX (Intercooled, automatic and plenty of gadgets :icon-biggrin: ).

The plan is to get it how I want it (im a tad ocd / autistic with certain things) but to mainly keep it practical as its a daily work vehicle and a tow vehicle to me.

So far all seems good but got a couple of things I need to change so was wodering on some advice ?

The speedo currently under reads so im assuming it needs a more accurate MPH conversion face - does anyone have experience of any in particular ?

Also im going to remove the parking mirror and the side steps and put them into storage as althoug pratical it seems I dont really need them so no point in lugging them around all the time !

Also need to get on the case with checking the starting and charging systems and it seems tad hard to start in the mornings. Not sure if its just me having come from a twin battery Surf to a single battery Land Cruiser or if there is something that needs tinkering with ?!

More long term im thinking temperature gauges, diff breathers, autobox cooler and parking camera !

Pictues will come tomorrow when the work begins :icon-rolleyes:
Hi Paul

Pub meet is next Wednesday, about 8pm, Blackbrook Tavern by Junction 25.

Its our 4x4Response team, but a friendly enough bunch and there should be 3 LC's there.

Ideal :)

Is it organised on a local forum or is it just a 4x4R monthly thing ? :)
Has a day of good and bad today !

How we started :


Then set about removing the parking mirror, ladder and side steps which all went smoothly.

Had a poke about underneath and all was looking good - slight rear diff propshaft seal seeping but other than that looked good. Also managed to find the remnants of a old bush I think on the front bash plate :

Then whipped the wheels off to check the brakes etc and found this :

Luckily a local place had some so those got replaced but my worry now is that the one of thi pistones was stiff going back so I may end up needing a caliper which is certainly not ideal as ive no money at the moment !

Pad comparision with the other side :

So put it back together in a huff and gave it a clean to try and cheer myself up and then called it time for the day !


Its a really neat looking truck, and very low mileage.

I bought new pads and discs for front and back from Roughtrax, all pattern at good prices - if I was taking the pads out I would do the whole thing (there is a knack to removing the handbrake cover) as it doesnt take 20min extra.

Good to see the anti-squeal shims in there - they def make a difference imo.

I would clean the pistons up with a fine brush, get all the crud off them, I doubt you need to replace them.

Check the gearbox fluid as well, its a common problem that the rad leaks into the atf cooler.

The meet on Wednesday will be all 4x4Response lads, but you'll be welcome, soon be more LC's than Landies.

Rears looked ok for now its just the front and in particular the bottom inner piston on the nearside front caliper - gonna hunt down a spare one to rebuild and then swap over I think just to be on the safe side.

Gearbox fluid was nice and red and the rad looks in good condition - ive been donated a oil cooler for the autobox so its the case of fitting it that may be the hard part !
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Never saw Stus 95.

Shes a beaut though Paul. Look after it.
Speedo problem sorted tonight :icon-biggrin:

Took it out and took the face and needle off and refitted and now seems more normal (30 on speedo is 28 on sat nav). Im guessing that when the needle was put on it was not fully rested at the 0 position but either way I can now stop worrying about unintention speeding !

Also made up some test pipework to see if I do infact have air going to the injection pump or if im being paranoid. I did notice however a slightly damp patch around one of the sensors on the pump. Well I say damp it was more of a mist that dirt had stuck to so not sure if that would affect anything or not !

Oh and I now have steering wheel wobble over 50mph so either the front brakes are now sticking or I didnt get the front wheels back on properally :shock:
Got the clear pipework fitted between the fuel filter head and the injection pump - a few tiny bubbles now and then but was reassured that it was a normal amount ?. Guess im looking at the immobiliser or glow system then...

Also had the wheels off and checked the calipers, bolts etc and all ok - got the wheels balenced and all seems to be ok so might have lost on when I had the wheels off ?

The list is getting shorter !
Paul - will be at Foxand Hounds, just before thornfalcon, as blackbrook is closed!
Checked for batter voltage to the glow plug rail with the ignition on - battery voltage for about 15 seconds the drops to 0v

Then checked it again whilst running and had 15.2v there for a while !

Checked the battery when its running and seeing 15.2v there too - im sure that is too high but not sure if its my multimeter or something else ?!
So after reading about alternators, wiring, voltage regulators etc I thought id just confirm what I was getting with a friends multimeter.

That showed 12.1v standing and 14.4v when running so then checked my multimeter battery and it was 6v instead of 9v.

Replaced the multimeter battery and now have a normal readings again :oops:

Guess im back to a stage of replacing the car battery as 12.1v seems a bit low and then seeing how the cold starting goes from there !
Decided I need to get on and get some gauges ordered (water and autobox temps) so mounted my holder and just need to wait for the gauges to turn up.


Debating getting a flip out dvd screen inplace of my massive double din head unit but not sure if the opening of the scree will clear the heaver vent trim !
Gauges came today so need to plan the wiring up of them now - where do people usually take their ignition lives, earths and illumination feeds from ?
i have used cigarette socket feed to trigger a relay to turn on the guages in past, and taken live for sender and illumination feed from a fused wire from battery and for earth there are usually some bolts above the footwell/pedal area you can use to earth with a ring terminal
Went to fit my new headunit today but though id better finish off the water temperature gauge as the adapter had turned up.

All wired up and always seems to rear at 100 - 110 no matter if im on the motorway, sat in traffic or at 4000rpm for 60 seconds !

Swapped all the connections over to the oil temperature gauge and still get the same reading so now not usre if ive wired it wrong (not sure you can), I have a dodgy sender (dont know how to check it) or if I do have a truck that runs hot (OEm gauges always reads just under half) or if its something else all together (bad battery, old coolant etc) ?
Where have I got to since last update then ?!

Sorted the gauge issue out - checp gauges are no fun so replaced with VDO ones !

The mrs took it to Glastonbury with a caravan and then I did 500 miles in a day and it was faultless.

Checked it over when it came back and now have a few issues :
Vibration under load that looks to be down to play in the rear joint of the front propshaft.
Leak from the steering rack which has been there since I had it.
Slight squeak from rear which looks to be the rear brake pads getting low.
Also got a sligh leak from the rear diff which looks to be from behind where the prop attaches.

After being on holiday for two weeks (wedding and honeymoon) payday is due soon so have to start cracking on with the issues.

Its going to be a long expensive summer !