Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

The "Collie" did

It seems to have little effect in the uk where I am, but I do find more insects and bird feathers in my air filter now :),

Having said that Andrew St Pierre White did a video comparing standard and snorkel air intake in dusty conditions and it was surprising just how much dust the standard system had in the filter compared to the snorkel.

And I just had to go and find it, Here.
 
Interesting, thanks for posting that. I’m in the UK too, nothing like the amount of dust in the video, but I live down a track and it’s surprising how much dust collects in the air filter element after a dry spell. At the moment though, not a problem. :)
 
This prompts me to post this. Ok, it's an 80 but the principal is the same.

Also some words of wisdom to pass on here. Not teaching anyone to suck eggs.

Wading in any water should be avoided unless necessary, especially on flooded roads in unfamiliar areas. Rivers of clear water and gravel beds are less likely to cause a problem though depth and what the bottom is comprised of can vary. @Chas can tell a tale about this. Fast flowing and brown, forget it unless its life or death and then you will need to rope both ways. It really does need asssessing but first is avoid if you can, then assess the depth.
Flooded paved roads need treating as flooded by raw sewage and sanitising of the truck after any contact is well worth considering (pine disinfectant is suitable). Roads can be worse than rivers or lanes because of raised manhole covers that can either swallow a wheel (causing your vehicle to be further submerged) or tear holes in things like your sump (triangular manhole covers). There can also be ditches and other changes in height that are less than obvious as well as submerged obstacles (rocks, fence chains, street furniture, pieces of Land Rover).

Thanks to West Sussex Fire and Rescue and Sussex 4x4 response training, I now avoid water if I can when it's not just a shallow puddle or flood.

Having said this, it does take a fair slug of water to hydraulic an engine as small amounts (splashes) get atomised and pass through. Getting the right speed to get a bow wave going keeps the area behind that wave lower around where our air intakes are. Lots of modern standard cars however draw their air from low down near the road (what a great design:icon-rolleyes:) so can easily suck up water.

Check/ apply brakes after exiting water and check/clear radiators for blockage if the water was muddy.

Stay safe people. Assess the risks and avoid anything risky if possible.
 
Last edited:
Oops silly me.

Has anyone found a snorkle that does stick up above roof line? Most I've seen stick up above and look bad imho
I have a Safari snorkel original head to begin with changed a while back to a cyclonic both stuck above the roofline a bit and I never noticed before but it does make them more noticeable. When I get the Cruiser back from Julian I'll look into shortening the tube.
Pictures of both types below.
DSCN1242.JPG
DSCN2068.JPG
 
Personally I think it is more practical to have the bulk of the head (whatever design) above the roofline, as otherwise will it not be always in your periphery and perhaps even obstruct you vision around the A pillar?
 
Could get knocked by branches a little easier though..?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Personally I think it is more practical to have the bulk of the head (whatever design) above the roofline, as otherwise will it not be always in your periphery and perhaps even obstruct you vision around the A pillar?
Yes, I had considered that and would not lower it far enough to block vision.
 
I have a Safari snorkel original head to begin with changed a while back to a cyclonic both stuck above the roofline a bit and I never noticed before but it does make them more noticeable. When I get the Cruiser back from Julian I'll look into shortening the tube.
Pictures of both types below.
View attachment 109804 View attachment 109805

Funny Chas, I know exactly where that second photo was taken :lol:

I hate the idea of wading, up to hubs or a little over is OK for me in my 80, but bonnet height would make me cringe.

My main dislike is the thought of water in the starter motor, winch motor and alternator, just for starters.

Then, how watertight are the seals on the cannonballs? I trust the breathers, they are venting just about top of gearbox tunnel height.

Ok, you IFS sorts don't have ball problems (ooh err) but I really don't like the thought of drowning my leccy bits.

Then there's mud and slime in the rads, the list kinda goes on and on.

JMHO.
 
This prompts me to post this. Ok, it's an 80 but the principal is the same.

Also some words of wisdom to pass on here. Not teaching anyone to suck eggs.

Wading in any water should be avoided unless necessary, especially on flooded roads in unfamiliar areas. Rivers of clear water and gravel beds are less likely to cause a problem though depth and what the bottom is comprised of can vary. @Chas can tell a tale about this. Fast flowing and brown, forget it unless its life or death and then you will need to rope both ways. It really does need asssessing but first is avoid if you can, then assess the depth.
Flooded paved roads need treating as flooded by raw sewage and sanitising of the truck after any contact is well worth considering (pine disinfectant is suitable). Roads can be worse than rivers or lanes because of raised manhole covers that can either swallow a wheel (causing your vehicle to be further submerged) or tear holes in things like your sump (triangular manhole covers). There can also be ditches and other changes in height that are less than obvious as well as submerged obstacles (rocks, fence chains, street furniture, pieces of Land Rover).

Thanks to West Sussex Fire and Rescue and Sussex 4x4 response training, I now avoid water if I can when it's not just a shallow puddle or flood.

Having said this, it does take a fair slug of water to hydraulic an engine as small amounts (splashes) get atomised and pass through. Getting the right speed to get a bow wave going keeps the area behind that wave lower around where our air intakes are. Lots of modern standard cars however draw their air from low down near the road (what a great design:icon-rolleyes:) so can easily suck up water.

Check/ apply brakes after exiting water and check/clear radiators for blockage if the water was muddy.

Stay safe people. Assess the risks and avoid anything risky if possible.

I love that vid, every time I watch it I'm wondering if he'll make it across :lol:
 
Went to go and have a splash on the way to work this morning, got turned around at the start of the lane, seems some muppet in a car tried to drive through the puddle, and got stuck in it
 
This prompts me to post this. Ok, it's an 80 but the principal is the same.

Also some words of wisdom to pass on here. Not teaching anyone to suck eggs.

Wading in any water should be avoided unless necessary, especially on flooded roads in unfamiliar areas. Rivers of clear water and gravel beds are less likely to cause a problem though depth and what the bottom is comprised of can vary. @Chas can tell a tale about this. Fast flowing and brown, forget it unless its life or death and then you will need to rope both ways. It really does need asssessing but first is avoid if you can, then assess the depth.
Flooded paved roads need treating as flooded by raw sewage and sanitising of the truck after any contact is well worth considering (pine disinfectant is suitable). Roads can be worse than rivers or lanes because of raised manhole covers that can either swallow a wheel (causing your vehicle to be further submerged) or tear holes in things like your sump (triangular manhole covers). There can also be ditches and other changes in height that are less than obvious as well as submerged obstacles (rocks, fence chains, street furniture, pieces of Land Rover).

Thanks to West Sussex Fire and Rescue and Sussex 4x4 response training, I now avoid water if I can when it's not just a shallow puddle or flood.

Having said this, it does take a fair slug of water to hydraulic an engine as small amounts (splashes) get atomised and pass through. Getting the right speed to get a bow wave going keeps the area behind that wave lower around where our air intakes are. Lots of modern standard cars however draw their air from low down near the road (what a great design:icon-rolleyes:) so can easily suck up water.

Check/ apply brakes after exiting water and check/clear radiators for blockage if the water was muddy.

Stay safe people. Assess the risks and avoid anything risky if possible.

i wish id read this last night before i got home! the access to our place includes a water crossing , most of the time its about 20 - 30 cm .sometimes during heavy rain the river overflows & floods the wheel ruts on the track.Last night before we got to the river the track was about 30 cm deep in water but i decided to go for it as i didn't fancy backing up 50m in the dark & a 20 minuite drive round the top of our property.Judging from the height of the water relative to one of the footbridges at the entrance to the river i reckoned it was about 60 - 70 cm so low box & 2nd start & off we went , fast enough to create a bow wave...the crossing is about 40m long but it seemed to take an eternity & as we were driving against the current the bow wave was building - i thought the electrics were failing but the water was lapping at the headlights .we made it to the other side & immediately crashed into a hole excavated by the water but i kept going & we made it to dry ground.
This is not something i would wish to repeat as it was only luck we didnt hit a bolder or one of our footbridges that got washed down .The water has dropped considerably but the holes gouged out of the track are pretty bad so its the long way round until i repair them. :fearscream:
 
i wish id read this last night before i got home! the access to our place includes a water crossing , most of the time its about 20 - 30 cm .sometimes during heavy rain the river overflows & floods the wheel ruts on the track.Last night before we got to the river the track was about 30 cm deep in water but i decided to go for it as i didn't fancy backing up 50m in the dark & a 20 minuite drive round the top of our property.Judging from the height of the water relative to one of the footbridges at the entrance to the river i reckoned it was about 60 - 70 cm so low box & 2nd start & off we went , fast enough to create a bow wave...the crossing is about 40m long but it seemed to take an eternity & as we were driving against the current the bow wave was building - i thought the electrics were failing but the water was lapping at the headlights .we made it to the other side & immediately crashed into a hole excavated by the water but i kept going & we made it to dry ground.
This is not something i would wish to repeat as it was only luck we didnt hit a bolder or one of our footbridges that got washed down .The water has dropped considerably but the holes gouged out of the track are pretty bad so its the long way round until i repair them. :fearscream:

Sounds like you had a bit of an outing there GOB, lucky you don't drive a regular car!

It does show how robust these trucks are, even if you had hit a rock or bit off a bridge, the truck would still likely carry you through OK, albeit a bit of damage.
:thumbup:
 
Wow! Err, thanks for the illustration G.O.B I wasn't expecting such dedication to the point here! :)

Seriously though, it does make you think. That was familiar territory. Had it been unfamiliar, you can easily get disorientated as all signs of road disappear. Underwater obstacles are likely to do most damage, had there been an old angle iron fence post and concrete base washed down that's a perfect heffalump trap for cruisers!
Really think twice about entering moving water that is anywhere near significant. It can so quickly go 'orribly wrong.

Glad you got through it.

WSF&R lost a fully kitted out response vehicle worth about £70k during floods at Bracklesham a few years back when they drove one of the flooded caravan site roads and it just slid sideways into a ditch.
 
In actual fact, although water and electrics don't go, at 12 or even 24 volts it's the small stuff that usually fails or things electronic. Thing is, most electronics are inside and the connectors if mated correctly could keep water out if submerged to quite a depth for some considerable time. In short, electrics generally won't fail you first.
 
Back
Top