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Thinking Aloud --Where Next With Regards to My Truck?

stuzbot

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2021
Messages
472
As followers of my misadventures will know, I've had a love/hate relationship with my Collie, ever since I bought it. A lot of which is down to my own idiocy in pretty much ignoring anything forward of the engine and rear of the back axle, when doing my pre-purchase inspection. Which, of course, is where all my truck's myriad problems turned out to lie.

Anyway, since moving to the back of beyond in Northumberland at the beginning of last month, I've definitely started to really enjoy driving the Cruiser a lot. I've done about 500 miles since leaving MCR for the last time and, as the saying goes it "hasn't missed a beat". It's also a hell of a lot of fun to drive on these winding [and blissfully empty] country roads, with about 4 hairpin bends on the route to dropping the missus off at work in the mornings. And, hats off to all you guys who quashed my concerns about buying my first ever auto. It really comes into its own on these kind of roads. It's like driving a giant dodgem car. But with a big comfy seat inside.

So that's the bad and the good. And, at the moment, I'm really loving driving this motor. I can't remember the last time I had a vehicle where I actually looked forward to driving it and was often disappointed my journeys weren't a bit longer.

Of course there are downsides too. Everything is so far away out here in the boondocks that I'm having to put £40 of diesel in a week. An amount that would last me about a month or more, in the city. But, by far my biggest downer is that there's no way this truck is gong to pass its MOT at the end of January. There's just too many niggling things which need fixing. So my thoughts, as to my options, at the minute:

1: Spend a couple of grand getting this one sorted. That has the advantage of starting with a known quantity and I think my engine and transmission are rock solid. However, it would mean getting the chassis welded and sorting out all the 'held together with string and snot' front end. There's also the question of the fact it pulls slightly to the left. That may just be down to the 4 mis-matched tyres. But there's also the chance it might be an alignment issue at the front, due to whatever it hit to wreck the grille and headlamp area. So I might spend all that money [chassis repair, set of tyres, front end alignment] just to end up at the place I thought I was starting from, when I bought it.

2: Now that I've got [sort of] unlimited parking [I only had one parking space at my former flat] I could buy another Collie [hopefully in better nick] and keep the current one for spares. Of course, the problem there is that they all seem to go in the same place. So that would put me back to square one, as regards finding a good one to start with. But, at least I might be able to find one where a bit of underbody corrosion was it's only major issue.

3: Go for another Land Cruiser but a variant less likely to have a chassis made of cheese. If such a thing exists? From what I read on here, it seems the 80 series was the Land Cruiser's pinnacle and everything since then has been slightly less well built. The chances of finding a decent 80 series for less than the price of a house also seems pretty remote.

4: Stay in the Toyota camp. But maybe go for something like a Hilux or a Smurf instead. Mind you, I suspect that they probably suffer from the same corrosion issues as their posher siblings

5: Jump ship and go for something like a Nissan Pathfinder, Isuzu D-Max or Mitsubishi Shogun instead.

Options 3,4 and 5 would give me more money to spend on the next truck, as I'd be able to sell my current Collie. Option 2 would leave me less to spend on the next truck. But would leave me with a donor vehicle to scav parts off.

I realise this isn't really a question as such. More like musing aloud. But I've not posted anything for a while. So thought it was time I bored yous all again, with a brain dump.
 
Glad you like driving the Collie. Mine is an Auto also and off-road is more than capable. Like you the MPG isn't great but I tend to not look at the fuel gauge as I'll be crying at the waste (well, its not wasted if you enjoy throwing the LC around).

I've been lucky up till now with chassis rust but as you say better the devil you know and if the mechanics are sweet then option 2 sounds reasonable. Maybe find one that's ok but the engine/gearbox is knackered so may get it at a reasonable price. Good Luck with whatever route you choose :thumbup:
 
Mulled that over for a bit and decided your collie ticks almost every box other than mpg .

Now your familiar with the truck you know exactly what to look for while hunting a D4D 90 .
 
Match your tyres on the front check the air pressures are the same then drive if it still pulls to the left check the front callipers are not binding and the pads are good all the no cost options first have a good look at the suspension components make sure they are not worn or damaged I think if it did have a front end smack it would show up under your truck something would have moved and would have left a tell tell sign like a gouge mark one side of a bracket not so rusty when you have the wheels off get a pry bar try and move control arms anti roll bar anything you see to detect play or wear all will cost you time and no money then if all good take it and get the tracking sorted
So if all is good have a sit down with drink of your choice get yer lucky penny out heads you start at the front tails you start at the back if by some twist of fate it lands on the edge of the coin get another truck
 
If it ticks your boxes, personally I would look to price up the work to get it right - essentially baseline the whole truck.

I suspect 2 and 3 will essentially give you the same issues and be more $$$$$.

FWIW I bought a 2015 Hilux 3.0 D4D as a daily driver a couple of years back - we still have the 80 Series (my missus uses it mostly), but I tend to use the Hilux for hacking about. I really like it - comfy, reliable, feels like a proper truck.
 
I still regret not buying the manual 80 we looked at but the auto in the 90 has grown on me even if it is an old school slushbox. If it makes you feel any better the MPG is much worse in the petrol, 16MPG in town.

Won't the other 4WDs you mention still have the same issues if you sell the 90 and get one of those the same age, or are you thinking of upgrading?

You still see lots of old Pathfinders and Pajeros (Shoguns) around here.
 
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Mulled that over for a bit and decided your collie ticks almost every box other than mpg .

Now your familiar with the truck you know exactly what to look for while hunting a D4D 90 .

Is the D4D that much more economical? I've heard both good and bad things about that engine. Good with regard to the pulling power and torque [although the old KZ seems plenty pokey enough for me]. Bad with regard to injector seal problems and just my general aversion to having too much electrics in my motors. Even the KZ is a bit more 'computery' than I'd like.

I think if it did have a front end smack it would show up under your truck something would have moved and would have left a tell tell sign like a gouge mark one side of a bracket not so rusty...

The cross-member on which the air-con radiator sits is bent [which is why I have probs with my bonnet catch, as that should attach to that cross-member. I wouldn't have thought it could affect the alignment of the front wheels, as it's well in front of the front axle and a relatively lightweight cross-member so equally unlikely to have pulled the chassis rails out of alignment. But you never know. It does seem to track a bit better when I've put air in the tyres and they're all evenly pressured. But, with 3 different brands on there, I can't put together a matching pair across the front axle... and t'would be a bit of a gamble to fork out for a new set of rubber and then find it made no difference.

Won't the other 4WDs you mention still have the same issues if you sell the 90 and get one of those the same age, or are you thinking of upgrading?...

Probably. I don't know. Is this endemic chassis rust particularly a Toyota thing, or does it affect all Japanese 4x4s? I was just pondering on whether I'd have better luck casting my net wider, rather than embarking on another long quest to find a chassis-rust free Collie or A.N. Other Land Cruiser.

Basically I've got til the end of January to decide what to do. I'm pretty undecided across all my options at the moment. Maybe with a slight bias towards Option 2 [ie. buying another Collie and keeping my current one for spares]. I've already begun scouring the eBay / Autotrader / Gumtree etc. to see if anything turns up that helps pull my decision in one direction or another.
 
I think i showed you mine after the front end got squashed ?

It will never be perfect again but its never been noticed at mot time .
 
Yes. I remember those pics. I wouldn't be particularly bothered about the front end damage, if I could be sure it wasn't affecting the tracking at all [and the fact I got so annoyed after trying about 30 times to get the bonnet catch to close properly last time, that it's currently held closed with a bit of rope lashed to the front cross-member]
 
That might just be a fail :lol:

Its a nightmare to get straight i know .

My a/c condenser and my radiator was crushed , both headlights bust at the rear , and having removed all that the actual bulkhead that everything bolts to was bent as well .

There might be pics on here somewhere but i can't find them of how i got it straight by drilling a hole in a short length of 3x3 inch box section steel so i could bolt it to various holes here there and everywhere . Then i'd put a strap through the box section and use a farm jack hooked on a corner of a wall to tease everything forward .

I was astonished at the result i achieved having never attempted anything of the sort before ....... but that bloody bonnet catch :angry-screaming::angry-screaming::angry-screaming:

I got a good second hand catch thinking the old one must be bent in some way that i can't tell but the replacement looked identical and was even worse .

I think i eventually fixed it by simply putting a couple of washers behind the catch but because it was so long ago and its never been a problem since i would have to go look and see what i did .

Tracking i feel is unlikely to be related to the bump , mine went pear shaped as well but i fixed it in Clive's Romanian garden with a bit of string and 2 borrowed spanners because i didn't have any big enough to fit the track rods . First time i ever did that as well but it was done before anyone else got up for breakfast .
 
i got it straight by drilling a hole in a short length of 3x3 inch box section steel so i could bolt it to various holes here there and everywhere . Then i'd put a strap through the box section and use a farm jack hooked on a corner of a wall to tease everything forward .

Great minds think alike!

Coincidentally enough. I was thinking along similar lines myself: remove front bumper and put something [eg piece of scaffold bar] across the front ends of the two chassis rails [I was surprised when I looked behind the plastic bumper to see there wasn't actually a hefty cross-member right across the front anyway] then use a hi-lift / farmer's jack attached to that to pull the air-con cross-member forward again and hopefully straighten it. I did also contemplate your approach. ie. parking up in front of a telegraph pole, attaching the jack to that and jacking the cross-member forward. But wasn't sure whether that would just pull the whole vehicle forward --especially given the lane and parking where I live now is pretty loose gravel.

Anyway, I've been hankering after buying a hi-lift jack for a long time now and was trying to convince myself this crazy idea of mine justified the purchase. But now I know it's almost the official way to do this kind of thing, I think the defence rests its case!
 
Another random thought:

Something I didn't know, but found out the other day is that any pickup which can carry 1000kg in the load bay is classed for road tax purposes as a 'Light Commercial' vehicle, which means it's taxed at a fixed rate [currently £275, if I remember correctly] irrespective of engine size and emissions levels.

So this adds another consideration into the mix. I could go for a pickup next time: Hilux, L200, F250, D-Max, Navarra, etc. and, as the road tax regs currently stand, that would allow me to buy a newer or bigger engined model, while still paying less road tax than I would on a newer Collie or other non-pickup.

I think a lot of pickups look pretty cool in their 'natural' state. Although, in our climate, they're not too practical, with regard to pissing rain and light-fingered passers-by. Trouble is, once you stick one of those hardtop covers on the back, most of them start to look a bit like a pram. The only ones I've seen where the hardtop actually looks the business are some of the L200s and the very expensive 'custom-made for camping' hardtops the Aussies use.

The other 'swings & roundabouts' aspect to this train of thought is my previously mentioned aversion to having too many electronics in my motors.

So:

* Buy newer motor = less likely to break down but also less likely to be able to fix it yourself, if it does.

Versus

* Buy older motor = easier to fix if [when!] it breaks. But also more likely to break, in the first place.
 
Stuz . . You've talked yourself into keeping it - haven't you :thumbup: .

Good decision, you know it makes sense, you love that truck and when you've finished you'll love it even more (though that "Its Finished" moment never actually occurs I'm afraid).

As for alternatives - a neighbour has a 2003 Trooper - it has rust, just in different locations to my '90', he also has a 2004 LR Discovery TD5 - its had to have chassis welding and a new cylinder head recently - there is no escape.

Chassis cross-members are available from Toyota, some bolt on, some are welded but that's probably the way to go. strip it down and weld in a new one, then you know its right. A cross member is around the price of a decent Farm Jack as I recall :icon-wink:.

That chassis rot - a 1-metre square sheet of 3mm mild steel sheet from: Metals4U is £121.58 plus carriage - You have an angle grinder with which to cut repair panels. Do one fix at a time as time allows, it shouldn't take long (do you have a MIG welder ??).

You can do it, we all do !

Lots more pics as you work please :thumbup:.

Bob.
 
Words of wisdom from Bob. Better the devil you know etc etc. I doubt I could find anything to compete with my 97 Collie, it’s pretty simple, almost basic, big enough to carry loads of stuff when needed, I actually think it’s bigger than the Disco 3 I had and less to go wrong. A farmer friend of mine has had one from almost new, he uses and abuses it and it’s never once let him down. Get the chassis welded and you will feel much better about it.
 
And what better excuse to buy some new toys (welder etc) because you're making the car better for her!
 
I like the idea of this, but I'm not sure I like the price...

Wow! Interesting find. I didn't think replacement chassis for the Land Cruisers even existed.

Cheaper than many repro Land Rover chassis, although shipping may be a tad expensive.

Yes. On the great global scale of things, I don't think that price is too exorbitant, if it would effectively allow you to start from 'ground zero' with a completely corrosion free chassis, on which you could then do Toyota's job for them, by rust-proofing it properly.

I'm a bit uncertain as to what you actually get for the price though. Looking at the diagram, it seems that the base chassis rails are one part and then most of the cross members and brackets etc. need to be bought separately [which would probably triple the price]. As far as I can tell from having seen photos of the widely available replacement Land Rover chassis, they seem to be pretty much sold as a complete unit.

Another consideration would be the quality of steel used in the manufacture.

As regards shipping costs... Hmmm.... I wonder how many would fit in a shipping container, if the forum was to do a group buy?
 
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