Throttle cable for Mech Pump mod - 1KZT-E

CAT

Member
I am in ireland
Mar 22, 2010
132
26
28
Hello all, I am very gradually getting there with the mods for my truck. I've installed the turbosmart boost controller now and the next step is to actually get the mechanical pump hooked up.
The main issue is the throttle cable, the standard cable on the TE is too short (I've been told, I would still like to give modifying the original cable a go but I am not confident enough to install the pump myself so leaving it with a diesel specialist who is looking for a bolt on cable).
So one option is for somebody out there in the LC world to point me in the right direction of a modification for the original 1KZTE cable.

The second option is to try and source a cable for the 1KZT engine which looks like it would work. I've tried to upload some photos, photobucket is taking the biscuit.

Third option is to find out if any other Toyo cable out there would bolt on and do the job.

Fourth option is for someone to provide me with a chassis number or reg for a 1KZT engine in Ireland/UK and I could use it to go through a Toyota dealer to source a cable. Currently they are looking for a correct chassis number before sourcing the cable, they won't search for it with my 1KZTE chassis.

Any assistance greatly appreciated as always, cheers lads.
 

iwan_t24

Well-Known Member
I am in wales
Mar 28, 2011
1,383
723
113
Mid Wales
Here's a couple of pictures of the solution I got working on my 71
P1010762.JPG

It's a right combination of bits. The link on the daihatsu pump is modded and reversed from working on the other side of the engine. Linked up to a cut down and welded back up 80 series rod (with the white tape around it!)
P1010764.JPG

The part where the cable connects is off a hilux 2l non turbo. The cable is from a round light lj70.
P1010763.JPG

The cable mount is off an auto 60 series modded to the right length to suit the bundera cable!

It's not pretty but it's fully functional and has stood the test of time!

What pump are you using?
 

CAT

Member
I am in ireland
Mar 22, 2010
132
26
28
Here's a couple of pictures of the solution I got working on my 71
View attachment 158731
It's a right combination of bits. The link on the daihatsu pump is modded and reversed from working on the other side of the engine. Linked up to a cut down and welded back up 80 series rod (with the white tape around it!)
View attachment 158732
The part where the cable connects is off a hilux 2l non turbo. The cable is from a round light lj70.
View attachment 158733
The cable mount is off an auto 60 series modded to the right length to suit the bundera cable!

It's not pretty but it's fully functional and has stood the test of time!

What pump are you using?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CUFQtYFqSDL7DDQLA
Here's a couple of pictures of the solution I got working on my 71
View attachment 158731
It's a right combination of bits. The link on the daihatsu pump is modded and reversed from working on the other side of the engine. Linked up to a cut down and welded back up 80 series rod (with the white tape around it!)
View attachment 158732
The part where the cable connects is off a hilux 2l non turbo. The cable is from a round light lj70.
View attachment 158733
The cable mount is off an auto 60 series modded to the right length to suit the bundera cable!

It's not pretty but it's fully functional and has stood the test of time!

What pump are you using?
I picked up one of the mech pumps from KRAE when living in NZ, between one thing and another I am only really getting around to the install now.

48670768352_1a4526e129_c.jpg



I did some searching last night and came up with some part numbers, ran them past Toyo dealer but discontinued.

48670635756_95906159fb_c.jpg


Much appreciated photos and description of your modification. If I was installing the pump myself I could have the truck sitting up and take my time with the cable but because I am planning on leaving it in to a shop they don't want to be messing around with it too much by the sound of it.
I'll just try to keep searching for parts.
 
Last edited:

iwan_t24

Well-Known Member
I am in wales
Mar 28, 2011
1,383
723
113
Mid Wales
Thanks man, nice acquisition with the NZ pump... are you planning to do an ECU delete? As leaving it in without having the normal function could leave the ecu down to possible disfunction and electronic failure. Why have an ecu, if you aren't using it?

Guessing you have a manual transmission truck, if so then you're a step ahead from an auto.

The truck in my avatar was a 1990 2lte and fitted with an ex 1kzte from year 2000.

To do an ecu delete you look at the pin out and in on the relevant ecu diagram and snip the relevant wires and join them together and hence bypassing the ecu... when you get in the swing of it, it's actually quite easy.

Interesting to see your progress with it...:thumbup:
 
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CAT

Member
I am in ireland
Mar 22, 2010
132
26
28
Thanks man, nice acquisition with the NZ pump... are you planning to do an ECU delete? As leaving it in without having the normal function could leave the ecu down to possible disfunction and electronic failure. Why have an ecu, if you aren't using it?

Guessing you have a manual transmission truck, if so then you're a step ahead from an auto.

The truck in my avatar was a 1990 2lte and fitted with an ex 1kzte from year 2000.

To do an ecu delete you look at the pin out and in on the relevant ecu diagram and snip the relevant wires and join them together and hence bypassing the ecu... when you get in the swing of it, it's actually quite easy.

Interesting to see your progress with it...:thumbup:
I've got a manual yes, seems a bit more straight forward than the auto.

Good to know, I wasn't planning on the delete but you've got me thinking now. So would I just be bypassing the feedback between the ECU and the pump, or lack of pump, as it were after installing the mech pump?
Have you just bypassed the ECU now altogether?

I've been scouring the internet for the past two nights, hopefully have some parts. I wonder would a cable from a round light 70 work for me? You don't happen to know if it is a longer cable than the one on the 90 series do you? Might need to acquire or mod some brackets though.
 

iwan_t24

Well-Known Member
I am in wales
Mar 28, 2011
1,383
723
113
Mid Wales
Yo man.. The 2lte and 1kzte have basically the same system that runs the fueling. Be it that the 1kzte is newer and has a slightly more developed system. I've got to know about it all from messing and converting 70's.

The main problem in the end result between manual fueling and ecu fueling is that the ecu operates the glow plug timer and on a manual wired truck there's a separate timer... first note.

Secondly when you go to manual fueling you are essentially making a large pile of wiring redundant in the loom behind the dash board.

ECU_pinOut.png


To simplify on the left hand side and middle the connectors are from the engine bay wiring loom. They contain the feeds for the temperature gauge, oil pressure, turbo lights on the dash, taco gauge, the new 6volt power supply for the manual pump, starter motor feed to starter relay and glow plug feed to the relay.

On the right hand side the operations above connect to the dash board wiring loom and make it work as a vehicle. Better to identify then snip the wires and connect up than keeping the ecu.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/lj78-build-thread.147283/page-10

I helped Ben to sort his wiring and there's a bit more info about the process towards the end of the page. :thumbup:
 

CAT

Member
I am in ireland
Mar 22, 2010
132
26
28
Yo man.. The 2lte and 1kzte have basically the same system that runs the fueling. Be it that the 1kzte is newer and has a slightly more developed system. I've got to know about it all from messing and converting 70's.

The main problem in the end result between manual fueling and ecu fueling is that the ecu operates the glow plug timer and on a manual wired truck there's a separate timer... first note.

Secondly when you go to manual fueling you are essentially making a large pile of wiring redundant in the loom behind the dash board.

View attachment 158803

To simplify on the left hand side and middle the connectors are from the engine bay wiring loom. They contain the feeds for the temperature gauge, oil pressure, turbo lights on the dash, taco gauge, the new 6volt power supply for the manual pump, starter motor feed to starter relay and glow plug feed to the relay.

On the right hand side the operations above connect to the dash board wiring loom and make it work as a vehicle. Better to identify then snip the wires and connect up than keeping the ecu.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/lj78-build-thread.147283/page-10

I helped Ben to sort his wiring and there's a bit more info about the process towards the end of the page. :thumbup:
Cheers for that, I had a look at that thread, jeez Ben did one hell of a job on that truck.
I'm not sure about making the ECU redundant just yet, as I may switch back to the E pump depending on how things go.
By the sound of it, from talking to Cori from KRAE he doesn't bother doing anything apart from get rid of the engine light bulb in the dash :D lol
You reckon that the ECU might eventually corrupt if its throwing faults all the time?
 
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