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time for a change , well maybe

tilly1

Active Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2012
Messages
91
hi guys , after a little advise , at present i own a very nice 70 series which is my daily drive and my weekend pleasure for green laning , but after having a slipped disc i am needing something more comfy but still would like to do the odd green lane trip , so any thoughts would be greatly appreciated also anything to look for when buying my budjet is around the 3k mark cheers :icon-biggrin:
 
Well I would suggest a 80 but after your 70 it might be a little large, perhaps a 90 or a 120? as I have only used/driven 40's and 80's so hopefully some one who has driven the 90/120 might have some suggestions.
 
The 90 series is a surprisingly comfortable truck, especially on long journeys. The seats have lumbar and height adjust as well as being well made. For 3k, I'd imagine you're looking at an older , non D4D, 90.
 
Do you want to change ?

Just thinking you could talk to a suspension specialist and/or look at replacing the seats with some designed for people with back problems .
 
Do you want to change ?

Just thinking you could talk to a suspension specialist and/or look at replacing the seats with some designed for people with back problems .
thanks , have got brand new brand new shocks springs on and just had the drivers seat re foamed with a lumber support but it still a very hard ride i dont think you can do much with a swb model , but a great idea cheers :icon-smile:
 
I think you have answered your own question there tilly , with the budget you've got a 5 door 90 series (which is actually a 95) is really your only option , good 80's seem to be rare and your not gonna get one on a budget and while a longer vehicle is always going to be more comfortable i can't imagine any vast improvement will be found in a lwb 70 series . If i was offered a newer 120 at that kind of price alarm bells would go off in my head and i would expect to find it a ringer of some kind .

So a 95 it is and the engine doesn't really matter they are all good , the only thing to be aware of is the auto needs the rad changed around the 100k mark .
 
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I think you have answered your own question there tilly , with the budget you've got a 5 door 90 series (which is actually a 95) is really your only option , good 80's seem to be rare and your not gonna get one on a budget and while a longer vehicle is always going to be more comfortable i can't imagine any vast improvement will be found in a lwb 70 series . If i was offered a newer 120 at that kind of price alarm bells would go off in my head and i would expect to find it a ringer of some kind .

So a 95 it is and the engine doesn't really matter they are all good , the only thing to be aware of is the auto needs the rad changed around the 100k mark .
cheers guys would only have a manual dont like autos :think:
 
I hate auto's too :thumbup: my trucks a 1996or8 , i can never remember , the only expensive thing to fix you should expect to find wrong with it is the rear diff locker which is usually seized solid from lack of use . Other than that it's common sense , if it looks good underneath and drives good it probably is good . There's stupid common problems like lazy retracting seat belts and a bust console lid but that really doesn't matter . They are tough enough to make service history largely irrelevant .
 
Tilly, I wouldn`t disagree with anything others have suggested, mainly because of their more superior knowledge and experience of the models mentioned,
(I drive the lwb 78 which is fine), but just to add for what it`s worth, as a cheaper option as you seem happy apart from ride, - A guy who posts on here, and the other side from time to time, Redd (from Ireland), replaced his front seats from a Lexus. Sorry I can`t shed more light, but may be worth looking into, although with the options mentioned you would be getting a newer and better vehicle.
Regards,
John
 
Tilly, I wouldn`t disagree with anything others have suggested, mainly because of their more superior knowledge and experience of the models mentioned,
(I drive the lwb 78 which is fine), but just to add for what it`s worth, as a cheaper option as you seem happy apart from ride, - A guy who posts on here, and the other side from time to time, Redd (from Ireland), replaced his front seats from a Lexus. Sorry I can`t shed more light, but may be worth looking into, although with the options mentioned you would be getting a newer and better vehicle.
Regards,
John
thanks guys for all the replys , might just have a look at the lexus seat option as yes its a great little truck , thanks to all :icon-biggrin:
 
well gone and bought a90 d4d 2001 mmm , can anyone advise me on how the 4 wheel drive works ie what lights up etc , thanks
 
well gone and bought a90 d4d 2001 mmm , can anyone advise me on how the 4 wheel drive works ie what lights up etc , thanks

Sounds good - we need pictures :thumbup:.

They are, of course, permanent four wheel drive and have a centre differential in the Transfer Box.

You have a Transfer lever to the left of the gearstick (is yours manual or Automatic ??), the operation is the same, though the linkage is slightly different underneath the skin.

The Transfer Lever should be on the left of the gate and pulled back as far as it will go - this is 'H' and is High Ratio with the centre diff open. Its for normal driving.

Keeping the Transfer Lever to the left, push it forward as far as it will go. This is 'HL' and is High Ratio with the Centre Diff locked. You can shift at road speed up to about 60 but you may need to back off the throttle a touch to get it to engage.
When engaged you will get an Amber light on the dash showing the axle configuration with an 'X' in the centre of the propshafts.

Don't run on dry roads in this mode or you will get "Transmission Wind-Up", the motor will start to labour, the tyres might squeal or something in the transmission will break - usually the Central Differential Planet Gear Carrier - you have been warned :shock:.

At crawling speed (under 5MPH) or when stationary, move the Transfer Lever from 'HL' across to the right and then forward. This is 'N' and the Transfer Box is in Neutral. Some use this as a secondary anti-theft device :lol:.

From 'N' move the lever forward again and it will engage Low Ratio. This is 'LL' Low Ratio with the centre Differential locked. you cannot run the 90 or 120-Series in low with the centre diff open as you can on some of the 100-Series.

Whilst in Low Ratio you will (should) be able to engage the Rear Differential Lock. This is done via the rotary switch by your left knee. It only works in 'Low'.

When engaged you will get a red light on the dash showing the axel configuration with an 'X' in the centre of the rear axel.

If the light is flashing the locker hasn't engaged. You might need to drive the truck forward and back while turning the steering wheel to get it to engage. Once engaged the red light will be steady.

I hate to say it, but with a 2001 car you will probably have to buy a new locker - particularly if it spent its life north of Watford - they dissolve in road salt :icon-rolleyes:.

Be careful of playing on tarmac in Low Ratio with the rear diff locked - you could chew up the surface :angry-nono:.

Hope this helps; if you have any more questions just ask :icon-wink:.

Bob.
 
Sounds good - we need pictures :thumbup:.

They are, of course, permanent four wheel drive and have a centre differential in the Transfer Box.

You have a Transfer lever to the left of the gearstick (is yours manual or Automatic ??), the operation is the same, though the linkage is slightly different underneath the skin.

The Transfer Lever should be on the left of the gate and pulled back as far as it will go - this is 'H' and is High Ratio with the centre diff open. Its for normal driving.

Keeping the Transfer Lever to the left, push it forward as far as it will go. This is 'HL' and is High Ratio with the Centre Diff locked. You can shift at road speed up to about 60 but you may need to back off the throttle a touch to get it to engage.
When engaged you will get an Amber light on the dash showing the axle configuration with an 'X' in the centre of the propshafts.

Don't run on dry roads in this mode or you will get "Transmission Wind-Up", the motor will start to labour, the tyres might squeal or something in the transmission will break - usually the Central Differential Planet Gear Carrier - you have been warned :shock:.

At crawling speed (under 5MPH) or when stationary, move the Transfer Lever from 'HL' across to the right and then forward. This is 'N' and the Transfer Box is in Neutral. Some use this as a secondary anti-theft device :lol:.

From 'N' move the lever forward again and it will engage Low Ratio. This is 'LL' Low Ratio with the centre Differential locked. you cannot run the 90 or 120-Series in low with the centre diff open as you can on some of the 100-Series.

Whilst in Low Ratio you will (should) be able to engage the Rear Differential Lock. This is done via the rotary switch by your left knee. It only works in 'Low'.

When engaged you will get a red light on the dash showing the axel configuration with an 'X' in the centre of the rear axel.

If the light is flashing the locker hasn't engaged. You might need to drive the truck forward and back while turning the steering wheel to get it to engage. Once engaged the red light will be steady.

I hate to say it, but with a 2001 car you will probably have to buy a new locker - particularly if it spent its life north of Watford - they dissolve in road salt :icon-rolleyes:.

Be careful of playing on tarmac in Low Ratio with the rear diff locked - you could chew up the surface :angry-nono:.

Hope this helps; if you have any more questions just ask :icon-wink:.

Bob.
cheers bob , this as helped loads , so solid red light and all is good :thumbup:
 
bob , its a manual by the way would love to add pics but dont know how , will have have to ask the kids as im not too good on computers lol
 
Would love to add pics but don't know how , will have to ask the kids as I'm not too good on computers lol

You will have to sign-up to one of the Photo-Hosting sites and put your pictures there - then add a link to your picture in the text on this site.

I use Photobucket, the basic service is free and is perfectly adequate for small volumes. I pay for the advanced service as I have thousands of car and motorcycle pics up there.

Once you have pictures stored on the site, each will have a range of options underneath. I select "Direct Link" and click and copy the reference alongside it.

In the text here, click on the "Insert Image" icon at the top of the frame you are typing in; a drop-down box will appear into which you paste your photo reference. The picture will then appear.

It may take a bit of getting used to, but once you're there its easy :thumbup:.

Bob.
 
You will have to sign-up to one of the Photo-Hosting sites and put your pictures there - then add a link to your picture in the text on this site.

I use Photobucket, the basic service is free and is perfectly adequate for small volumes. I pay for the advanced service as I have thousands of car and motorcycle pics up there.

Once you have pictures stored on the site, each will have a range of options underneath. I select "Direct Link" and click and copy the reference alongside it.

In the text here, click on the "Insert Image" icon at the top of the frame you are typing in; a drop-down box will appear into which you paste your photo reference. The picture will then appear.

It may take a bit of getting used to, but once you're there its easy :thumbup:.

Bob.
cheers bob , will have a go lol :icon-wink:
 
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