Torque settings help required?

[sae70]

Would someone with access to to manual of some kind be kind enough to look up a couple of torque settings for me

Just can’t lay my hands on mine since the move and divorce

Transfer box output flange nut?

Rear axle input flange nut?

Thank you

 

[AdventureWagon]

This is from the Haynes manual for the 90 series.

Output flange nut 118Nm
Rear axle nut see text they say, so here is an excerpt.

 

[sae70]

Thanks for that......

Rear diff flange nut seems a tad complex

 

[Shayne]

If faced with the same dilemma i think i would mark it - crack it - tighten it back the the mark then use my torque wrench starting at a lower setting and adjusting until i could undo it hoping it would go back as it was at the same torque ?

 

[sae70]

Does anyone know the specification for the rear pinion on a 95? I’m guess I check this with a Beam Torque Wrench?

 

[goodoldboy]

are you sitting comfortably ?
pinion shaft pin 27NM
pinion flange nut max 343 NM
& a long list of other stuff . i'll try & get a photo posted

 

[goodoldboy]

 

[sae70]

Cool, I shall digest that this evening :0)

 

[Aeroelastic]

343Nm on the Flange nut from the picture from good old boy above, and 196Nm from the page Adventurewagon shared? I supposed 343 is the Max that you can’t go over? That is huge...
Not quite follow the backslash check in step e of the manual, can anyone explain?
I have seen few videos on YouTube and most people did the pinion oil seal replacement by counting the exact turns of loosening the Pinion nut and put a mark on it, and tighten back to the same position, assume this is the layman way of doing it and won’t cause any problem?

 

[AdventureWagon]

The 343Nm is mentioned as a never exceed torque for the 90 series at the end of the text I photographed. I think you tighten in increments.

 

[Shayne]

most people did the pinion oil seal replacement by counting the exact turns of loosening the Pinion nut and put a mark on it, and tighten back to the same position

I tried that and the mark always ended up either obviously too loose or two feet wedged so i could yank on a 2ft breaker bar tight which was obviously a no no , hence i suggested removing with a torque wrench in my earlier post .

 

[Shayne]

If i remember correctly there's a crush tube inside which will crush as the diff is set up so no two trucks are likely to share exactly the same torque settings .

It was years ago i was messing with mine and i did find then some (in America) replace the crush tube with a solid one but i assume thats made to exact length while the diff is being set up ?

 

[Aeroelastic]

I tried that and the mark always ended up either obviously too loose or two feet wedged so i could yank on a 2ft breaker bar tight which was obviously a no no , hence i suggested removing with a torque wrench in my earlier post .

So basically you use the torque wrench in reverse to Un-tightened the nut in the first place? Never use a torque wrench like that before. Anyway as long as it works...

 

[Shayne]

Mark it first and crack the bond of time then tighten it back to the mark , your torque wrench will click rather than undo until you find the weight with which the nut was applied .

 

[Aeroelastic]

Thanks, that make sense...

 

[sae70]

OK, heres what I did and it seems to have worked out fine......

I had a feel for the backlash and the weight to turn the flange by hand with the truck up off the ground with the wheels removed and the prop shaft also removed. I then made a note of how many threads were showing outside the front of the flange nut and the position of the nut in relation to the flange and the pinion. I made a long bar out of flat steel with two holes drilled through to bolt to the flange to hold the pinion still while I undid it and also did it back up. After I'd replaced the seal I did the flange nut up with a normal ratchet until it was reasonably tight then checked its position before torquing it up to 196 nM as described in the manual. This took the nut to just before all my original markings, so I torqued the nut for a further 10 nM twice (13 nM steps recommended in the manual). this took the nut just beyond the markings and reference points that I'd noted before removal by about 1/16".

Job Done and all feels good

 

[Aeroelastic]

Hi,
On post #7 above, the spec from goodoldboy on the pinion pre load, what is the pre load for the red circle below? Are there for when the diff is on the landcruiser with both rear wheels on? Surely the wheels will add on the weight for the pre load measurements? Thanks