Roman
Even though we're just back, I'm still dead jealous. We covered pretty
similar ground but not as far south as we lost 2 weeks due to axle oil seal
- after that no technical hitches, the car was awesome and despite taking
some calculated risks (we were travelling alone, not in a group) we made it
back safe and sound.
Since I was last in Maroc about a year and a half ago, the driving on sealed
roads has got considerably worse. I sat amazed behind the wheel on the road
from Agadir south to Tiznit and watched a minibus being overtaken by a grand
taxi, which in turn was being passed by another grand taxi which in turn was
being overtaken by a clapped-out Peugeot 404 pickup... 4 abreast on a narrow
2 lane road. We were convinced that our medical skills were going to be
called on but they all slotted in like one half of the Red Arrows. Many more
examples of similar moments. Also many more radar speed checks by surly
police who ask for 400 dirhams in cash and when I asked for a receipt in
good French, they looked flushed and said 'ok, just a warning this time.' We
were there during Ramadan so this may explain the erratic driving.
Something else that happened for the first time in this part of N Africa was
stone throwing.
Another thing we noticed was the proliferation of quad bike groups, mostly
from Germany, travelling in convoy on the better pistes, with support 4x4s
and MAN trucks, not slowing down for anybody or anything, kicking up dust
and generally making life hell for the small settlements they went through.
On one piste, a lone quad biker suddenly rounded a blind corner and clipped
my door mirror and just vanished into the dusty distance. If I'd been just
one metre further forward he would have hit the front bars and that would
have been the end of both our trips. Also came across plenty of French and
Spanish groups, driving beautifully prepared cars, a variety of the usual
suspects, but again all going way too fast through the small villages on the
sealed roads. Looking back through our diary (kept up to date each day)
there are loads of references to this which is a shame.
The car was great but I feel that you are doing the sensible thing by
organising a shelving system in the back. Between now and our next
adventure, probably to Turkey and Iran but maybe just Turkey, I want to
build something like it in the back of my car. We were pretty sorted but
whenever we stopped to cook or camp, it took more effort than it should.
Would be interested to see what you have done.
Borrowing a pit to do oil changes etc was never a problem and the local
mechanics everywhere we went were interested and helpful and brilliant at
improvising.
We didn't mean to but when we left, we drove from Marrakech to Tarifa in
Spain in a day and consequently we have about 1,000 dirhams tucked away
somewhere. If you wanted to exchange at a fab rate for some euros or =A3s let
me know. Be happy to get them over to you.
Hope the health improves soon.
Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones
Mob: 07831 458 793
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