Tyres scrubbing

[Rocketdog]

Hi all, i’m New to this forum.
Is there a search box?
I have an issue with wind up. Scrubbing of tyres when on full lock.
I found an interesting write up about the VC seizing and wondered if I had the same problem?
Any help much appreciated.
It’s a vx 80 1997 4.5 petrol.

 

[Chris]

See the little magnifying glass icon?

It certainly should not scrub even on full lock. Your front locker isn't somehow stuck on by any chance? Have you had your front wheels off the ground to give them a spin?

 

[Rocketdog]

Hi Chris, thanks for the response.
Yes, i’ve had the wheels up, and whilst doing so noticed the wheels turning. The system is winding itself up

 

[clivehorridge]

Welcome aboard Rocketdog

Search function is the tiny magnifying glass symbol top right corner of each page. It’s not so visible if you use a phone to view the forum, turn it sideways (landscape) and you should see it, but you have to be scrolled to the top of the page.

As for VCs, you probably do have one on a late (ish) model (1997) is yours manual or auto?

Someone will be along soon with some ideas, I’m sure...

 

[Chris]

With one front wheel off the ground, with some effort you should be able to turn the single wheel against the VC. It would be fairly tight. With both wheels up then they should turn opposite ways quite freely. The prop would probably not turn. You can lock the centre diff too just to ensure that all that is moving is the front diff bits.

 

[Rocketdog]

Thanks Clive. Found it now.
It’s an automatic.

 

[clivehorridge]

How odd, Chris’ post didn’t show, even after I posted, now it does.

 

[Chris]

It would be. They didn't sell petrol manuals here in the UK.

 

[Chris]

If the VC is seized, swapping it is not the hardest thing in the world, but you'd have to get a replacement. There will be people out there with transfer boxes but getting them to spit them might be tricky. Actually, odd perhaps, but I do have a petrol transfer box in my workshop. That's not a bid to sell it, but genuinely just remembered that I have one. Point is that truthfully, swapping the T box would be quicker and easier than swapping the VC on its own.

 

[Rocketdog]

With one wheel off the ground I have no movement. Both wheels off they turn freely in opposite directions

 

[Chris]

Ahh, then that's either the VC, yes - rare but possible, or your centre locker is engaged. Are you sure that this isn't the case? The indicator sensors very often pack up and you don't know it's locked. All depends if you have the manual centre locker button of course. Forgive the obvious but as a new member we've no idea how Cruiser savvy you are.

 

[Rocketdog]

I have centre diff lock button. I can feel it locking the diff in and out.
I’m not that savvy, but am learning quickly as I bought a pig in a poke.
In a thread on here it mentions removing the VC completely and running without. What do you reckon?

 

[Rocketdog]

I have centre diff lock button. I can feel it locking the diff in and out.
I’m not that savvy, but am learning quickly as I bought a pig in a poke.
In a thread on here it mentions removing the VC completely and running without. What do you reckon?

Anybody got a TC for sale?

 

[frank rabbets]

You can run without the VC. It acts in parallel with your centre dif lock so if you get stuck you will not suffer from lack of VC. The VC is meant to give a more even drive to all wheels in top gear on a slippery surface. There is no difference in day to day driving. I thought the ABS on mine did not act quite right on gravel surfaces after I took mine out but apart from that no difference. It's easy to take out and removal would at least confirm your diagnosis. Leaving it in would put far too much strain on the transmission. In fact full wind up may happen after just a small distance down the road. You may not hear the tyres scrubbing but they will be slightly and therefore the transmission is constantly working above its designed tolerance.

 

[Rocketdog]

Ok, VC removed and reassembling now.
When I took it apart two washers fell out. Same diameter, one thicker than the other. I know one is the pump shimmy, where is the other to be located and which way round ie thick one or thin one on the pump.
Thanks for your help. Really need to get to the bottom of this!

 

[frank rabbets]

It could be that someone has used 2 shims to obtain the thickness of the one shim required but did not have the right thickness. Witness marks in the form of stains could let you work out what has happened. Failing that you need to study the manual for reassembly of the housing unless someone else can help.

 

[frank rabbets]

When you decide where the shims might go I should check they are not proud and will therefore not be forced when the surface retaining them is tightened up.

 

[Chris]

Just don't miss putting in the key that drives the oil pump thingy.

 

[Rocketdog]

Still not sure about the shimmies. I put them both on the pump. Seemed most likely as they are exactly the same size in profile.
Matching up the pump drive is difficult. I got the case half on, but reckon the drive is not positioned right, so will take it off tomorrow for realignment. Ran out of light this evening.
Thanks for all the help.

 

[Chris]

No problem. I think I have seen more than one shim before. I blob a bit of oil on them to get them to stick in place