Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Wading depth?

phil the brewer

Active Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
88
Evenin' folks,

Just a quick question, what's the wading depth on a 120 and does having a snorkel make any difference?

Cheers

Phil
 
yup. Standard is, IIRC, 750mm which is below the wheel arch. I've stood stationary in water with it splashing over the bonnet and well over the wheel arch without a problem. There are 4 holes you need to fill in the airbox or you'll get water in.

First leak comes from the heater intake which is just under the wipers. It has a good wall around it to stop water coming in but I've seen evidence of muddy water in the filter.
 
Foolishly before having the snorkel fitted, I lapped the water up a little past the rested wipers.
Not some thing I would like to try again.
Fortunately she just kept on paddling across,,,,,,,, I swear the read wheels were floating in places.
River Corwen.

Gra.
 
It's 700mm. I had my 120 over the windscreen. Diesel obviously. Wading depth is really about static water. Most will go deeper for a while with a bow wave. Not sure what a snorkel is for. :whistle:

Chris.
 
Hi Chris,
It is a bit scary when the water lapp's up onto the windscreen.
It has that strange look from the inside.
In hind sight, I should not have followed the group, through the river, as the consequences could have been eye watering.
Any way, as you say, constant bow wave, helped.
There was lots of steam when she finally pulled up out and onto the bank at the other side.
I would be very careful even doing 700mm now without a snorkel.
One only needs to stop, or slow, or lose the bow wave, and the returning water would flood every thing.

Gra.
 
Nah - Company Car.

Chris
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Chris said:
Nah - Company Car.

Chris
.
Lucky bugger, getting a 120 for a company car.

Why no more?

Gra.
 
Well we can pick either a Toyota or a Vaux.. never mind. We have a set amount given to us to help us to 'buy' the car. It's a very clever scheme. Each year there is a rate book published and the idea is that for your money there should be at least one or two choices that are covered by that amount. As I didn't fancy 40k in a Yaris, I opted to pay a little more myself and have a Cruiser. All business miles are included as are servicing insurance tax etc. All you pay is private miles. So if I had a Yaris and never went to the shops in it, I'd basically have the equiv of a pool car. It would cost me nothing. If I did Tesco and back, I'd pay a few pence per mile. Good deal. Buying the cruiser gave me a great Co Car, but also suited my needs for shooting, laning etc so the extra I paid to own it was worth it in my view. When it came to renew I thought I'd have another Cruiser. Shocker - the rate book had gone up on that vehicle to ridiculous levels. So much so in fact that I could have bought a cruiser myself cheaper, straight from the dealer. Clearly they didn't want these in their fleet. I picked something else, which was as good a car as I needed for work but no good off road etc. However, all rates had gone up and by now I owned my own cruiser for pleasure miles. In order to have a decent work car, I had to pay about £100 per month plus private miles. You might think that's cheap. But I didn't need the car, so I was paying £100 per month to have it sit on my drive - for the company. My monthly fuel returns showed that I wasn't driving it out of hours. So it's a good scheme if you don't have your own car and want to bomb about cheaply in something like a Yaris or an Auris. But if you need a decent car for work but don't drive it aside from that, it's £100 down the drain.
What is the wading depth of a Verso - shall we find out?

Chris
 
Back
Top