Wading depth.

[wobbly]

My Prado has 2" suspension lift, 2" body lift, and runs on 33" tyres.

The car sill sits at 600mm.

That's above the wheel hub.

I've been working out a wading depth, could I go to 800mm?

That's about top of the tyre'ish.

Am thinking of electrics etc.

Pete

 

[jbecks]

The book says 700mm wading depth.

 

[wobbly]

That's a standard truck ? I may be ok then, as it's been lifted by about 5" overall.

 

[Chris]

it's the difference in height between a std one and yours, added to 700mm really isn't it. So if you find a place that anyone can measure easily to, say the side indicator to the ground then you can do the math. You can still go deeper than that for short periods with a bow wave - your call, but the question really has to relate to how much of an increase do you have over the std book 700 mm. The electrics are fine Pete. It's a diesel. it's the air intake you have to look at. But I thought you had a snork on yours, no?

 

[jbecks]

sorry for some reason I thought you wanted to know the stock depth, so you could work out how deep you could go

 

[Ecoman]

Please remember that wading depth is based on still water and not a moving body. A fast flowing river and you can reduce that measurement down to about 300 - 400mm.

 

[wobbly]

Checked against a standard Collie, my sill is 150mm taller (so 6").

I do have a raised air intake, although I may seal the connection joints with tape just to be on safe side.

A recce's been done, lanes mostly about hub depth, but undulations in road surface can increase this to about 700mm.

We are providing logistics on the Levels as part of the major incident response - boats not suitable due to dry humps in sections.

Thanks for the help lads.

Pete

 

[Paddler Ed]

Don't forget breather tubes for the Diffs, gearbox and transfer case; if you're doing a bit of fording I'd look at running them up high in the engine bay; those would all have an influence on the wading depth.

Also don't forget to re-grease the UV joints on the prop shaft, cardon and slip joints a bit earlier than normal.

 

[Ecoman]

Don't forget breather tubes for the Diffs, gearbox and transfer case; if you're doing a bit of fording I'd look at running them up high in the engine bay; those would all have an influence on the wading depth.

Also don't forget to re-grease the UV joints on the prop shaft, cardon and slip joints a bit earlier than normal.

That reminds me, I'm about to order a fresh batch of breather parts so I should be stocked up in a weeks time.

 

[DaveWall]

Don't just put new breathers on - buy standard air line fittings and run 4mm tube from all the breathing points up to the air box and screw them in to the air box casing (the right side of the filter still).

 

[froggy Steve]

That reminds me, I'm about to order a fresh batch of breather parts so I should be stocked up in a weeks time.

Bags a set for a 95

Steve

 

[Ecoman]

Don't just put new breathers on - buy standard air line fittings and run 4mm tube from all the breathing points up to the air box and screw them in to the air box casing (the right side of the filter still).

Sorry bud but I wouldn't plumb them into the air filter housing as the negative air pressure will start to draw oil and other condensates up the breather pipe.

The fittings I supply are pneumatic fittings and 6mmOD (4mmID) polypropylene tube. For those of you that want to make up your own kit, you can but them from companies like Pirtek and will cost you around £4 each. You will need 2 x 1/8" BSPT 6mm 90 degree swivel elbow fittings, 1 x 6mm equal Tee and around 7m of 6mm tube. I would avoid using plastic fittings as they can get brittle in the cold weather and break very easily.

 

[Ecoman]

Bags a set for a 95

Steve

Not a problem. I will put a post up when they are available

 

[froggy Steve]

Smashing, send with a bottle Machrie Moor
Steve

 

[Ecoman]

That can be arranged is you like