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Was an 80-Series the right choice for me? Having second thoughts...

Firstly, thanks for all the swift and positive replies, it’s great to see such an active forum with so many helpful members responding! As requested, I have added the obligatory “newbie” thread with some pictures, and details of what I’m planning; this in this forum titled "Forum Newbie saying hi"

Secondly, thanks for the encouraging responses. I wouldn’t say my 80 is a bad car, far far from it in fact – I test drove several and it was by far the best car available at the time (bar a couple of £15k examples, perhaps!!) and overall it is an excellent vehicle for its age in terms of condition, etc. However, things like extended motorway cruising are not something you can really experience on a test drive, and when I went to Morocco there was an 80-Series (24-valve) in our group that even fully loaded was absolutely flying on the dusty mountain trucks, and that was compared to my 4.4 V8 RRS! So clearly mine is not kicking out as much power as it should/I hoped.

To that end, I’ve booked it in with Julian @ Overland Cruisers for a check-over, specifically looking at the power (tweaking the fuel pump?), ride comfort (checking and replacing all the suspension bushes with OE-rubber parts as necessary) and handling (fitting an Ironman heavy duty steering damper to help counteract the additional unsprung weight of the BFG A/T’s).

Someone mentioned tyre pressures too – I can’t remember what I’m running in them at the moment (will check this weekend), but 30Psi seems awfully low for such a heavy vehicle and big tyre – will that not adversely affect fuel economy and handling?

On the subject of fuel economy, at around 75-80mph with no additional weight it’s returning around 350 miles to a tank (to the red light), which equates to around 22mpg; again, not great for a manual, I was hoping for high 20’s to be honest!

Re: giving it a good thrashing, since owning it I've put two tankfuls through it of normal diesel with Redex additive (just going by what's on the bottle rather than overdosing it!!) and there was a bit of smoke but overall it hasn't made much difference. I have been revving it relatiively hard (once warmed up, only up to 3,500-4,000rpm max) but not sure it's made much difference! Will speak to Julian and see what he makes of the suggestions above ;)

Any other hints, tips or suggestions welcome! J
 
If you search the forum for prospeed exhaust you might find some interesting reading
 
You need to overdose it with Wynns to get shot of what's accumulated. Light right foot is a real choker for diesels IMO. Bought a 3.5 yr old common rail Space Star that was gutless compared to the one we traded showing 38 to the gallon as opposed to 49/50 combined. Thought the Wynns and a good hammering would cure all but it remains the same if a little better powered. Turns out the injectors let so much by to tank that the snap acceleration pressure of the pump gets lost and it struggles sometimes.

I would say put the Wynns in and drive it hard from now on before you do any tweaks and it should improve. If not then you know it's something else. Do you get the eye stinging slight white exhaust? There's a thread on here if you do. I do and haven't done anything and it still goes well but if you do it might be worth getting injectors refurbed but see how the Wynns goes first.
 
Shayne said:
If you search the forum for prospeed exhaust you might find some interesting reading
Click to expand...

Now there you go making me want something else now…[emoji25] I'm dead if I spend any more!!

[emoji6]
 
MikesVX80 said:
Someone mentioned tyre pressures too – I can’t remember what I’m running in them at the moment (will check this weekend), but 30Psi seems awfully low for such a heavy vehicle and big tyre – will that not adversely affect fuel economy and handling?
Click to expand...

That would be me Mike.

I really like the BFG A/T's and when running around not loaded 30 -32 is perfect IMO but I could not get them for my LC at the time so now on Toyo's. My last LR Disco loaded up with full armour/winch/and the rest of the 'toys' was a heavy beast and coincidently 30 - 32 was perfect, in fact I would often drive to a competition venue and throw on the recovery straps and get stuck in, after a quick jet wash and back home often not even touching the tyre pressures. You will find tyre pressures vary so much with tyre size/brand/load/use/comfort preference and so forth a very personal choice IME.

Check out my posts and those of others about MPG here, http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/view...start=15&sid=4459982f4f4297be74a0da59c211940f

It was pure chance that I had to do this run to Madrid when the thread was started before Christmas, my Toyo Open Country tyres were set at 32psi cold for constant motorway use and returned good MPG figures that were very accurate, I did check tyre temps by hand at break times and they were not overly warm, tread wear is good. FWIW, I could up the pressures and may even nick another 1 MPG, but comfort is good, handling is fine, and more importantly the wear pattern is good, so I must be presenting a good footprint to the road surface. If I were going camping and all my gear is in there plenty of water and other 'stuff' then it would be 38.

In stock form your car will return OVER 500 miles to a tankful when running right.

regards

Dave
 
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Shayne said:
If you search the forum for prospeed exhaust you might find some interesting reading
Click to expand...

OK Mike, understood, but read up on it anyway, it's interesting reading and everyone's zorst is fine until it drops off!

When the time comes, it's a well worthwhile option, a bigger bore (3") makes a real difference in power and who can shame a lifetime guarantee into the bargain, assuming your truck is a keeper.

I made the mistake of replacing mine with a standard system which cost me a grand. It lasted 7 years before it disintegrated, then I took a gamble and chose a stainless.

Just put it on your wish-list :lol:
 
Well, I consider myself lucky so far on both truck and wife I've got good 'uns.

3" exhaust on my wish list though I still have an unused centre section in my attic where I bought the whole lot and still retained the one it came with which still refuses to die. Toyota Futaba.
 
Hmmm not comfortable running no air filter. I have two OE units, wash one and put in the spare, wash and swap every six months. Take the spare with me when out in the 'campo' tracks but never run without IMHO.

regards

Dave
 
K&N Filters have mixed reviews but i'm a supporter because i felt the difference instantly when i replaced a month old paper filter .
 
I tried K & N's years ago and could not get my head around the sticky oil spray, adding that most of my tuning car days were 'run wot you brung' sprints at Santa Pod, so genuine times were available, K & N's made no difference to my ET's even when swapping around jet kits for the Webers or Dellorto's. If they work any better these days I am unsure but we put them on the same shelf as the 'high performance pancake' filters.

My LC is now showing 240,000 miles apparently on the OE offerings so I am happy they do the job. I do not think the K & N's would fair well in the fine dust we have here, and perhaps likely to get blocked earlier than the OE offering. I would add that is speculation and I have no evidence to back it up but, the larger particles that drop into the swirl pot in the bottom of the OE filter case would remain stuck to the K & N, in theory blocking it before a paper unit?

regards

Dave
 
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Put a K&N in and use it ongoing if worried. For the short time it would take to sip the dregs out of the tank in the damp UK, there would be no harm done IMO. Gardner engines run in third world countries for years without manifolds let alone filters.

Mike's call in the end. Only repeating the advice given to me by a mechanic. Did my cruiser without taking it out but did a shogun by taking it out with no issues. No idea what difference it makes, if any.
 
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Mixed thoughts on this, my old man's 1947 MCC PV didn't even have an air filter, just a cowl over which stopped anything bigger than a mouse going in the carb...

Still, it only clocked 860,000 miles, so no proper test really... :lol:
 
Welcome to the forum Mike, sorry to hear your not 100% happy with your 80 yet, but hope that this can be resolved once shes back in good working order.

Your 80 should cruise at motorway speeds above what your experiencing, with ease. One possibility could be the fuel tank pick up pipe strainer/filter, this can become clogged over the years and really strangle the fuel supply to the engine. Its worth checking and is one of the things that should be on the list when 'base line servicing' an 80. The strainer/filter can be found under the second row seats, these have to be unbolted and removed, then pull the carpet back to reveal the access cover in the vehicles floor. Remove this and then you are confronted with the top of the tank, unbolt the fuel tank pick up and remove it from the fuel tank. Now you can see the strainer and see if it is clogged.

The strainer can be cleaned, but it doesn't cost much to buy a new one through our discounted forum Toyota parts supplier, Simon (see the parts section of the forum), so you might as well fit a new one. It is also worth shining a torch in the tank while you have it open, to see if there are any debris in the tank.

Re your steering - Yes they are light to the feel, but yours sounds like it has play as well. I would suggest making sure that all the steering components are in good working order and free from play, but from your description I would guess that your front axle is overdue a rebuild. The steering knuckle bearings get negelected, the grease gets watered down with oil that has leaked past the worn axle seals and you end up with play and wear in the bearings and CV joints. Play in the steering knuckle bearings could be giving you the unsettled feeling as you corner, as the preload on the knuckles could be far to low, or have no resistance (preload) at all.

A front axle rebuild with new knuckle bearings, seals, CV's and wheel bearings will reset the clock and see you good for many years to come. Only good quality parts should be used, to retain the Land Cruisers durability.

BEB's (big end bearings), as yours is a 12v motor, have your BEB's been changed? If not, then get them replaced with ACL bearings asap. There are plenty of threads on here and other forums on this issue.

Suspension - After 22 years the OEM suspension will be worn, I bought my old green 80 in 2009 and that was a 1993 model too, and it had tired suspension then, which crashed too much over the bumps just like yours. I replaced mine with OME +2" lift and it rode much nicer after, but thought has to be given to the load rating of any springs fitted, as go too high and it'll be an over firm ride.

The 80 is a heavier duty vehicle than the LR's (I have had both in ownership at the same time) and has slightly more unsprung mass than the LR's, plus the 80 has stiffer springs to cope with the heavier mass of the 80's larger steel body. Don't take this as a reason that an 80 might not ride well, because it isn't, they can ride very nicely indeed. My old 80 was a 12v auto, it went well, rode nicely loaded or empty and was good on fuel, it is now in the hands of another forum member and he is over the moon with how well it drives for a 22 year old vehicle. So once yours is back to full health, I don't see why you shouldn't enjoy the same experience.

They are old vehicles now and have had a fair bit of use, some more than others, so more work has to be done to get them into a good working condition, but its worth it, as they are such a tough reliable and capable work horse they provide a service that modern vehicles can't.

Re the advice for running without an air filter - this is not advisable with a turbo charged engine, unless you like spending out for new turbos.

Good luck with your 80.
 
I had a bad experience years ago with a K&N on a bike so, personally, I wouldn't use one to filter my coffee but there are those, racers among them, who swear by them. If an engine is standard then a standard OE spec filter is more than adequate. The notion that a standard filter restricts the engine is a false one IMO. With a free flowing exhaust and modified fuelling (as in the bike's case) it's certainly possible. JMO
 
I got one because i'd added a 3" exhaust and intercooler so whichever way you look at it they do allow for easier breathing which is why i suggested it as an alternative to running without a filter at all .
 
To be clear, the advice was not to run without an air filter. It was to take it out for a hundred miles or so while getting the engine to begin the decoking process and then put it back in. That's all. Not days, not weeks, not months but hours and I did qualify that saying avoid dusty environments. Not run without an air filter.
 
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