What other axle full floating axle will Toyota 6 stud wheels fit ?

[Shayne]

Been down that route Ed it can be done but its finding a suitable barrel type rim so the centre can be cut out and moved further back , every wheel i've looked at tapers up to the face .

 

[stumog]

you can remove the center from a diso 1 steel wheel and have it welded back in to where you like. You also get split rims that the center is rivited in so you can drill out then rivit back in the other way round. I do have a set of tese which would be very easy to do.

i will try to get you some back spacing measure ments tonight.

 

[stumog]

see what i mean.

how much do you need to gain?

 

[Shayne]

-70 offset i need . Just looking at that first wheel Stu maybe i could flip the face in the rim ? what size and offset is it ?

 

[stumog]

thats alot i bet you could get a mach 5 wheel that would do. give devon 4x4 a ring and see what they have around?

 

[Shayne]

-35 what my trucks running which pushes past the guards a little but a defender with them on looks about a foot wider , i have phoned around but there is little call for that kind of offset in the LR fraternity . I can order a set of steels to match my own with an LR pattern and -70 offset but they won't be delivered until November

 

[stumog]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Mach-...082?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35d2f4c44a

almost what you want

 

[Shayne]

Just had reply from direct 4x4 about standard defender spacers 38mm thick thinking i can get -35 offset LR wheels and that will have to do . But the reply is the typical "very sorry we cannot answer your question" . I asked if i could fit the spacers they sell to the hub using 22mm wheel nuts .

Buy it and see

 

[stumog]

whats the 22mm wheel nuts about? landrover is 27 mm and they dont have much meat on them so i would say not either as the stud would be to big in the hole.
why do you need 22mm?

 

[Shayne]

Sorry that was an error off the top of my head , the nuts on the trailer studs are actually 15/16 so aware mentioning anything imperial guarantees no response at all i gave the alternative 24mm spanner size .

What size and offset is the wheel in your first pic Stu maybe i could have the face flipped inside the rim ?

 

[stumog]

They are 16" i am not sure how wide. i am not sure if you have standard nuts on yours if they take a 24mm socket.

 

[stumog]

ok google to the rescue i see know what you need to ask for is series 2 landrover wheel spacers. as these have the old studs and nuts in the 24mm you require.

 

[stumog]

http://www.paddockspares.com/pm776-30mm-aluiminium-wheel-spacers-for-series-2-and-3-set-of-4.html

 

[Shayne]

UNF 3/8 18 TPI or some such again thats off the top of my head i've been told its so many variations of the same i have learned to hate them . It's M16 studs and nuts but its not instead its a very similar size devised by Nasa to stop Russia from stealing wheels off the spaceshuttle i think and there lies the problem . I can't replace the studs with standard LR ones because the splines will never fit in the hub , maybe i should just remove the studs and replace them with bolts but that seems an utter bodge solution to me .

 

[stumog]

Look up Zeus gears there was a chap that had replaced his studs to get modern landrover ones.

 

[Shayne]

Can you see why i'm so frustrated now , the series landrover use BSF imperial , UNF i've been told is American which i guess tells use where the mod buys its rapier missiles , i feel like sending a few airborne ones back as a thank you note

 

[stumog]

Yes I know it's not easy.but modifyimg never is easy.if your doing something odd. This is why most people use a disc brake sankey.

 

[Shayne]

Well talk about can't see the forest for trees . I phoned Zues and a very helpful chap who didn't want to sell me anything took some time to go through my options and eventually arrived at "a standard LR M16 stud will crush in to the hub as long as the bore hole is 16.25mm" . So out with the verniers and the holes look about right which is about when i realized i had never actually tried to force the new m16 stud i bought into the hub I swear with the new and old stud side by side i wouldn't have believed it might fit .

So about 100 quid for new longer studs which i have no qualms at all about paying as it brings me back into off the shelf territory .

 

[moggy1968]

can't help with any of the technicalities on this, way over my head, but a couple of observations from reading through everything.

1.HJ60s are available with FF rear axles. not all have them and the spring rate might be a bit stiff. Andy Lomas would be your man

2. I presume this is for expedition use. Almost 100% of people I have talked to who have tried trailers for expedition use reckon they are a nightmare. I was looking at using one so asked a lot of people. They take terrific abuse and either a.) fall to bits b)smash everything in them to bits c)smash the towing vehicle to bits, notably the rear cross member. It also significantly increases the demands on transmission, engine and cooling. If you are keeping the NATO style coupling my experience is it will bang and crash like a mad thing and drive you nuts, as well as putting terrific loading on the rear cross member.

3. In sand, (and most other off road situations actually) skinny is best. A tall narrow tyre that airs down well. On the main vehicle it enables the tyre to bite down for traction while the frontal area is less, leading to less build up of debris in front of the wheel, halting forward motion. There are a few situations, like in a bog or on an icelandic glacier where fatter is best but generally skinnny for go, fat for show. Thats why the traditional off road tyre of choice is the very skinny 7.50x16. Look at the tyres used by desert racers for example, and serious expeditioners.

On a trailer a fat tyre will be like towing an anchor. the larger frontal area of the tyre massively increases the drag. You gain more floatation form airing your tyres down without the gains in frontal area. fat tyres on a trailer in most situations will be a nightmare.

4. On expeditions, reliability is everything. The part that will fail is usually the aftermarket one or the modified one. As standard as possible is generally best. Those spacers I have seen that you posted elsewhere will almost certainly crack under the strain of expedition use. Things have a habit of rattling loose after repeated pounding off road so having them attached by nuts you can't easilly check sounds like a recipe for disaster. Personally I would hate the idea of using spacers even for road use.

My advice would be try a standard trailer first before spending a fortune in time and money on mods when you may find the whole idea isn't really for you anyway. I've spent a lot of time towing military trailers, and I wouldn't like to put one behind my landcruiser on an expedition.

 

[Shayne]

I agree Moggy if i expected to be going on serious overland expeditions i would probably buy a new Hilux because my swb90 just isn't big enough . But when reality bites the truth is i could probably manage just fine doing what i do towing any old caravan as long as it had indespension but wheres the fun in that ? well apart from wrecking it I don't get out nearly as much as i would like to and with the Mrs working nights she doesn't jump at the chance to spend a weekend in a tent , so my solution which is based more on wishful thinking than anything else is to build a comfortable trailer so we can spend the weekend down at Tenby or the Brecons perhaps and while there you never know we might accidentally chance upon a bit of rough stuff It keeps me occupied or serves to divert me anyway i've spent a month in conflict with the vat office over 4 years worth of returns which was great fun