Who is doing what maintenance today?

[t1pper]

After seeing the 100 pass the 200k recently and feeling really pleased that every thing is running like clockwork I have suffered a few blows.
Firstly lent the car to Mrs T1pper while she was having some paint done on the Rav, asked her to collect me from work and when I got in I noticed the hand brake was ON "oops", now the lever is nearly vertical before resistance!
Oh well, Sunday though I would get the rear wheels off and see what was amiss, just as I jacked the nearside chassis up a pop followed by a shower of AHC oil, on closer inspection the shocker was cracked at the top mount where the rubber bush sits.
Obviously this is where it holds the moisture as it was well rusted and thin, checked the other side and the shock was also wet in exactly the same place, so today set about removing both sides.
After a few hours wrestling both were off (not an easy task) once off the feed hoses were assessed and deemed to be heavily pitted and in need of replacement too.
Managed to get some OEM shocks from Milners @ £124 each, but the hoses were Mr T only at £296 a side!!
Probably going to try Amayama for these, to top it all off to get the old pipes out it appears that the diesel tank needs to be dropped and the exhaust box moved to get the new ones in, so probably time to give the tank a birthday while off.
Have not even had chance to look at the handbrake yet.

 

[Chas]

Has anybody used this type of tow/hitch before for recovery if required?
..

[/QUOTE]
I've used that type of hitch for recovery but attached through the pin NOT on the ball.

 

[flint]

95 front diff bearings all replaced,, initial preload set at 12 in/lb (without crush tube), side bearing support back on and backlash checked (0.12mm, within specs but could be a bit more), and first contact check (Cadmium Yellow artists oil paint used as marker). Pinion quite a way too far in with original washer (2mm), so call to parts for a thinner one in the morning (1.85mm ish).

 

[Bert]

I've used that type of hitch for recovery but attached through the pin NOT on the ball.[/QUOTE]
As long as the pin held fine Chas? I was just a bit wary because it's only secured by two bolts to the bar, but there again, some of the bolts we use at work you can secure a building with so maybe I'm just over cautious......

 

[Shayne]

8.8 on my Jerry rigged abomination Bert and i didn't break them yanking an 80 out of the mud or trying and failing to recover a fully loaded bin wagon buried up to its axles so i wouldn't lose any sleep over it .

 

[Chas]

I've used that type of hitch for recovery but attached through the pin NOT on the ball.

As long as the pin held fine Chas? I was just a bit wary because it's only secured by two bolts to the bar, but there again, some of the bolts we use at work you can secure a building with so maybe I'm just over cautious......[/QUOTE]
Yes, of course the bolts must be of the correct type, a steady pull is always safer anyway, I always try to avoid snatch pulls.

 

[Gasmanjc]

Maybe grade 8.8 bolts are the right ones... sorry, but I wouldn't know.

I looked into it when doing my front recovery points, 8.8 should be Fine. I went 12.9 which is regarded as overkill. Heres a handy chart I found.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

 

[Bert]

I looked into it when doing my front recovery points, 8.8 should be Fine. I went 12.9 which is regarded as overkill. Heres a handy chart I found.

Hello G.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, I'll get the new bolts on tonight.
I've still only got the tie down (transport) points at the front of my rig. I think people put a straddle strap connected each end between these, and then take the main recovery strap from the straddle strap. Can anyone verify this?
Also, I'm sure I've seen someone knock up some new front recovery points from some 10mm thick equal angle.....another thing to investigate......

 

[Gasmanjc]

Never use the Tie down Points for recovery. They are just tie downs for transport. Even though prados have relatively sturdy points in comparison to other vehicles, Its not worth the risk. Also be aware that using factory captive nuts in the chassis rather than new ones can be a weak point.

 

[Bert]

Never use the Tie down Points for recovery. They are just tie downs for transport.......be aware that using factory captive nuts in the chassis rather than new ones can be a weak point.

So is it ok to use what I believe the tow point is for recovery using a kinetic strap?

 

[Shayne]

Yep use the hook pictured i got 2 the bolts are m12 x 1.25 fine thread . Spalding fasteners i use for bolts and stuff .

 

[Gasmanjc]

The factory hook in your pic isnt a load rated hook as toyota wont rate them for recovery due to legal issues if one should break and do someone some damage. In saying that they are very strong as far as I've read. I would consider trying to find some load rated ones in the mean time though. Pretty sure its possible to put one on the other side of the chassis also though you may need to remove the tie down point for it to work

 

[fbnss]

No maintenance required today, mjb got a pass with no advisories, woohoo! I said to the guy after that i'm planning to go to Romania in the summer, is there anything that you've passed but i should take a look at and his reply was " if it wasn't for the surface rust underneath you wouldn't know that it wasn't a new car, all the bushes are good, breaks are good, steering. You could drive it anywhere"

really big WOOHOO!

Ps. guess he didn't check the handbrake...

 

[clivehorridge]

No maintenance required today, mjb got a pass with no advisories, woohoo! I said to the guy after that i'm planning to go to Romania in the summer, is there anything that you've passed but i should take a look at and his reply was " if it wasn't for the surface rust underneath you wouldn't know that it wasn't a new car, all the bushes are good, breaks are good, steering. You could drive it anywhere"

really big WOOHOO!

Ps. guess he didn't check the handbrake...

Excellent news Nick, another year of freedom !

 

[fbnss]

Currently working on celebratory tea!

 

[dellboykev]

Took the flares off to fit some kut snake ones and got some nasty surprises

Oh well out with the welder and filler and it will be like new again I think I will fill the old holes while I'm at it

 

[Gary820]

I washed and hoovered the 80, topped up the screen wash and that's about it. Quite a few people at work haven't seen it or knew I had it, were a bit shocked at what I drive lol (only seen the beemer). It's only been there once briefly to check for a noise.

 

[Bert]

Not much in the way of maintenance as more in replacing missing body panel clips in the rear. I also gave her a bit of a clean up while I was at it.

I decided to look at what was under the black metal disc on the floor, and it led to what I suspected, the top of the fuel tank. Mostly looked good though I still intend to drop the tank for a more detailed inspection.

Anyway, I replaced all the missing clips. But while I was at it, I noticed that the power outlet in the back was an after market modification carried out by some previous owner, and it was obviously sourced from another Japanese vehicle. Can anybody shed any light on it and tell me if they have something similar in any of the other Cruiser variants around?

The DC12V socket works fine, but I haven't plugged anything into the AC100V/100W bit yet. I guess the only way to safely do it is to jam a multimeter in the plug holes.

And these are the views from the rear of the sockets......

If anybody can give me a little more info on it, as always I'd appreciate it. Cheers

 

[Gasmanjc]

Noticed a water leak coming from the driver front bumper. Pulled the bottom plate off and the plastic 90° joiner from the wiper bottle hose has been rubbing on the plate. I put a dob of glue on it to seal it and then heat shrinked it for good measure. Then zip tied some split wiring wrap over the top. It may still leak but will hold water until I grab a joiner. I will probably rotate the hose on the wiper motor to move it up away also.

 

[flint]

95 front diff refurb. Sorry no more photos, camera out on loan, no smartphone. Possibly helpful observations are: clam shell diffs are a bit of a pain during set up, be prepared for more dismantling, bearing installation and removal than you might expect. Tools needed will include a micrometer for measuring shims (washers) on pinion and outboard of side bearings, a dial type low range torque wrench for measuring preload, a lever type dial gauge to measure backlash (through the oil drain hole), a press (a 10 ton one would probably have been enough) with various tubes and bearing removers, a drift to remove the pinion races. If you haven’t got any of the special tools, be prepared for work arounds. You’ll also need a holder of some sort to hold the flange while tightening the flange nut enough to crush the bearing spacer (unless solid spacer is used, care is needed with this to avoid overdoing the preload), it will take a fair old bit of torque to get to the point where turning resistance starts to be felt on the flange. All in all, not a 5 minute job, but with the right tools, the manual, lots of tea and a fairly large swear jar, quite doable. Getting the diff back in place with the flange on is a bit of a challenge, but it will go. If I was to do one again, I would make up a case holding jig to make press work etc. more straight forward.