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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Thanks Tony its cheap as chips and you can wash the brush in the kitchen sink without getting an ear bashing from her indoors . If it holds up in the long term its an excuse abolisher for rust on our old buses .
 
Well for now, it looks fantastic.....

It's a rust converter as well Bert which sort of presents me with a dilemma . I had settled on the idea of cold galvanizing rust before painting over it but i'm wondering now if its worth doing twice as the omnicote stuff might actually work better direct to surface rust .

No way of knowing because the claims it will stick to glass are true and as a short term indication of how tough it is yesterday i painted her stainless steel kitchen bin with it and i have absolutely no doubt it will out last my previous attempt using upol acid etch , halfords primer and topcoat .
 
Just giving the seats another treat. Possibly not of immense interest, but when I got my Landcruiser, the drivers seat had hardened with quite a lot of cracking and looked as though it was on the verge of splitting. Ages ago, I’d bought some leather restorer for a project which had worked well and I still had a bit left lurking, so I gave the seats a good going over. It did the trick and the seat is still un split and supple. The stuff was the Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine cleaner from Leatherique, not particularly cheap by the time it arrived from the US (cheaper than seat repair though), but it does go quite a long way. Just thought I’d mention it….not on commission ! http://www.leatherique.com The book’s worth a look too: Our Famous Book, (click to down load)

Edit: Now available in the UK https://www.restorite.co.uk/collections/leather-care
 
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Well should've been at work today but not enough work to justify opening the workshop on a bank hol.

Got all the bits trimmed on the fridge slide and some primer on. Checked the fridge actually fits too lol.
 
8
Checked my Tyre pressures today:whistle:

I'll be doing mine next weekend :icon-cool:

Shayne - that rust treatment looks good, hope it stays that way for while. Would be very interested in some more details i.e. suppliers, pre and application etc. Thanks in advance. :thumbup:
 
Not much to tell Chadr i'm afraid . After much reading i had decided upon using Eastwood rust encapsulator but despite waiting weeks (on the advice of Frosts.co.uk) i couldn't get it and i simply couldn't wait any longer .

Awake half the night having nightmares because i knew i was going to buy waxoyl in the morning i started searching for something similar to Eastwoods and found the Omnicote .

Several hours more searching found only one review from a Landrover lover who had used it on his chassis (his pics only show if you find his forum post and click the not so obvious photobucket link) . He reckons it still looked the same 6 months on .

I figured waxoyl looks awful and never really dries so what do i have to lose .

I ordered by phone from here i think http://www.anti-slip-paint.co.uk/omnicote-litre-rust-converter-black-p-108.html and they charged me about 4 quid for next day delivery .
 
Thanks Shayne.

So in terms of prep, did you just wire brush or did you strip further?

I'm looking to do mine this Summer (I know, I know, - I've been saying that the past few Summers!) but THIS Summer I am determined to do something.

This looks like a relatively easy (and inexpensive) option if wire brushing is all that is required. The other option is popping up to see the fellas at Krown.....
 
I'm no expert but i'm kicking myself now for putting it off so long . Personally i found everything i read about power tools etc a wasted effort and if i were to start again i'd get these http://www.screwfix.com/p/wire-brus...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIKwhLXUz9MCFWow0wodhRkJzQ and a wood chisel to tap at the stubborn bits .

Where paint meets bare metal and might lift i used this http://www.screwfix.com/p/oakey-liberty-green-sanding-roll-115mm-x-5m-80-grit/26571 but i can't remember what grit , i can look tomorrow .

And the beauty of that omnicote is its like emulsion paint and can be applied all year around whatever the weather so it doesn't have to be a big job , you could do it an hour a month if you chose to .
 
The big test will be in time. I've used what I thought was good rust converter paint before but a year later I found the rust continued away underneath and eventually the paint flaked.

The best stuff I've used was the old old Hammerite paint - This stuff was strong, and I sprayed it over rust and it would stop it dead on and never flake back out. Newer hammerite just isn't the same.
 
The big test will be in time. I've used what I thought was good rust converter paint before but a year later I found the rust continued away underneath and eventually the paint flaked.

Ditto this. The longest lasting stuff I've found was Por-15 rust converter and then the Por-15 paint. If prepared to the letter of the instructions that sat on my old Series Land Rover suspension components unblemished for a few years until I sold it. But the prep was a pain, and the stuff going off in the tin was a pain.

I did a load using Dinitrol RC900 last year, but theres already a few rust patches poking through the Dinitrol wax that went on top of that.

This year I've started using Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Brushes clean up in water. A little bit in a jar badly sealed with clingfilm (no lid) doesn't go off. And the finish looks very like the stuff Shayne is using. Time will tell!

My biggest problem is always getting all the mud and then dust off. I can jetwash an area 2 or 3 times and still find bits of grit when I'm painting which no product likes.
 
I find that the POR lasts longer if, instead of opening it, I put a couple of self tappers in the bottom and just pour out a bit at a time into a container to use and keep the tin in a plastic bag in a corner of the fridge. I’ve used Hydrate too and it seems to be holding up ok, I recently tried the Surfex for cleaning up, not bad at all.
 
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