Ok not cruiser related but I have a small steering hub that takes two identical wheel bearings. They go in from opposite ends and will fit up snug against an internal rib. They aren't taper roller, just sealed ball bearing races. The later model just has one long through bearing.
When I came to knock the bearings out, I had a real struggle as there was a spacer ring in between the two - in other words no knock out slots. I had no choice but to bash away until I made a gap to work with. The bearings were completely toast by the way. No wonder it was wobbly.
Measuring up, it seems that if I put the bearing in without the spacer, they'd be 10 mm apart inside face to face. But then there's this spacer. It's almost the same dia as the middle races so it could transfer load and is also the right dia internally for the drive shaft. Essentially it's like a spare inner race. But - and here's the rub, it's not 10mm wide, it's nearly 11. So what that means is that one or other of the bearings won't seat fully against the internal rib. This makes no sense to me. Oh they'll be snug in there no worries but it means that the internal races will sort of be connected. My only though it that it's a sort of anti crush tube to stop you winding the castle nut up tight and pulling the middles out of the bearings. Yes? No?
This is not a high performance machine and not road legal so I don't have any worries about wheels flying off. It's been running like this for a long time too. I do have the FSM but it makes no mention of this at all. I've spun up some stock in the lathe and made a section 29.95 internal ready to chop into spacers but my question is whether I should go to the exact gap between the inner races or essentially have this slightly oversized third race that effectively pushes the middles of the bearing out slightly.
Yes yes I know that the great god of quads made it like that but I have an enquiring mind. I genuinely can only think that it's to stop the middles being crushed inwards.
When I came to knock the bearings out, I had a real struggle as there was a spacer ring in between the two - in other words no knock out slots. I had no choice but to bash away until I made a gap to work with. The bearings were completely toast by the way. No wonder it was wobbly.
Measuring up, it seems that if I put the bearing in without the spacer, they'd be 10 mm apart inside face to face. But then there's this spacer. It's almost the same dia as the middle races so it could transfer load and is also the right dia internally for the drive shaft. Essentially it's like a spare inner race. But - and here's the rub, it's not 10mm wide, it's nearly 11. So what that means is that one or other of the bearings won't seat fully against the internal rib. This makes no sense to me. Oh they'll be snug in there no worries but it means that the internal races will sort of be connected. My only though it that it's a sort of anti crush tube to stop you winding the castle nut up tight and pulling the middles out of the bearings. Yes? No?
This is not a high performance machine and not road legal so I don't have any worries about wheels flying off. It's been running like this for a long time too. I do have the FSM but it makes no mention of this at all. I've spun up some stock in the lathe and made a section 29.95 internal ready to chop into spacers but my question is whether I should go to the exact gap between the inner races or essentially have this slightly oversized third race that effectively pushes the middles of the bearing out slightly.
Yes yes I know that the great god of quads made it like that but I have an enquiring mind. I genuinely can only think that it's to stop the middles being crushed inwards.
. It sounds like the later design with what sounds like a needle roller bearing was thought to be enough following a redesign.
