Winch Isolator/Switch

[warrenpfo]

Sorry for all the winch related questions but rather than combining them into one post i thought it best to split them out as it makes searching for them later that much easier.

As we all know it’s a good idea to use a winch isolator in case of an emergency one can stop the winch. It also stops little wandering hands doing stupid things with your winch if you are not around like un spooling it and hooking it onto your rear bumper and apparently cutting your car in half…..yet to see this happen or hear of it happening.

I was wondering:

1. If its best to get an isolator with a key so it can be “locked” or if that is over kill
2. Is the best place to mount it in the engine bay as you have to then lift the bonnet adding in an extra level of safety or are the occasions when you would not want the bonnet open and so this would just be a hassle.
3. Is it best to mount it closer to the battery or the winch and does it matter if the isolator is prior to the solenoid or after it?
4. Can you use a battery isolator or does it need to be a winch isolator
5. I have seen them switched from inside the cab with what I guess is a relay to switch the isolator. Would this be the money no object lazy man’s solution even if it’s not keeping it simple.

Sorry lots of questions.

 

[Andrew Brierley]

IMHO... (and no particular order....)

1. it does not need to be a key (unless you are trying to avoid unattened operation) as it is principally a safety cut-off device (panic button)
2. It should be located in easy reach of where you are likely to standing when operating the winch, so as to minimise the time taken to get to it and operate it. There are times when you can't have the bonnet open (for visibility) so I don't recommend the engine bay
3. It should be before the solenoid, and any isolator of sufficient amperage will do the job
4. I don't like additional circuitry before the isolator, as it is just something else to go wrong

I have had a winch that decided to continue spooling in, even after disconnecting the winch contol, and need to get to the panis button in rapid time, so I regard it as an absolutely essential device, not a nice to have...

 

[warrenpfo]

Cheers Andrew

As said I am yet to meet anyone who has had there winch played with without them knowing about it and so think that it may just be an urban myth BUT if as you say the best place for it is somewhere accessible in a hurry I guess somewhere on the front bumper is best. This would mean that there is no way of stopping someone shorting the winch and having a play unless the switch is "lockable".

My only question back to you is what if you are winching from in the car and something goes wrong....is it not best to have a cut-off switch in the cab as you may be in a deep bog hole and not able to open your door or access your bumper or at such an angle that getting out the car is not easy. I might be wrong and in the heat of the moment you will do what you need to in order to get out and hit that cut off switch but just a thought.

 

[Paul]

I usually fit the "classic" switch isolator (the one with the big red key) as it is so famililar to everyone in case it is someone else that has to switch it off for you in an emergency.

I have fitted an enable switch on the dash before wired into the solenoid pack low current circuit so you only have to run small gauge wires. This may cover all security needs i suppose.

 

[Andrew Brierley]

Cheers Andrew

As said I am yet to meet anyone who has had there winch played with without them knowing about it and so think that it may just be an urban myth BUT if as you say the best place for it is somewhere accessible in a hurry I guess somewhere on the front bumper is best. This would mean that there is no way of stopping someone shorting the winch and having a play unless the switch is "lockable".

My only question back to you is what if you are winching from in the car and something goes wrong....is it not best to have a cut-off switch in the cab as you may be in a deep bog hole and not able to open your door or access your bumper or at such an angle that getting out the car is not easy. I might be wrong and in the heat of the moment you will do what you need to in order to get out and hit that cut off switch but just a thought.

If you are stuck in a bog hole and can't get out of the cab, you ain't gonna be able to fix the winch to anything anyway, and would need to get assistance from someone else (who could operate the winch externally). It's fairly unusual to be winching from within the cab, and also far from ideal as you can't see the spooling on the winch. The safest place is outside the truck, but if you feel that you might need to winch from the cab, then you might consider fitting a second isolator there and wiring them in series. Doing so means that they would both have to be on to be able to winch, but operating either would fail safe. The downside of this is the length of the wiring runs, as the higher resistance could have an impact on winch performance.

Far easier for Defender owners to do this as the wiring runs from under the passenger seat to the front - so no increase in length (it's about the only thing that a Defender has going for it)

 

[Ben]

Warren if you buy a kill switch get a decent one. The one on the top of the page I've linked to below isnt good enough, I've burnt a few of those out now. Their just not up to the amount of amps the winch can pull through them.

The one lower down, the heavy duty one should be better.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/battisol.php

If you are stuck in a bog hole and can't get out of the cab, you ain't gonna be able to fix the winch to anything anyway, and would need to get assistance from someone else (who could operate the winch externally). It's fairly unusual to be winching from within the cab, and also far from ideal as you can't see the spooling on the winch. The safest place is outside the truck, but if you feel that you might need to winch from the cab, then you might consider fitting a second isolator there and wiring them in series. Doing so means that they would both have to be on to be able to winch, but operating either would fail safe. The downside of this is the length of the wiring runs, as the higher resistance could have an impact on winch performance.

Far easier for Defender owners to do this as the wiring runs from under the passenger seat to the front - so no increase in length (it's about the only thing that a Defender has going for it)

I'm sorry Andrew but I have to disagree.

99% of the times I've been stuck I've been in the cab driving and winching at the same time. It takes a lot of strain off the winch to be attempting to drive as the winch pulls you forwards, you can also steer the vehicle. The other reason its a good idea is from a safety point, if the winch rope snaps I can simply put my foot on the brake. Obviously if your out of the vehicle this isnt possible and the vehicle could roll down a hill/shoot off.

I cant see the logic of not being in the vehicle while your doing a winch recovery.