Windscreen install.

[frank rabbets]

Just about to install the windscreen with aperture reconditioned and new rubber. Workshop manual says to water/soap the rubber and aperture to ease the rubber round. Then they say to use the Toyota sealer. Now once water has got between the rubber and body it's never going to dry out so presumably the Toyota sealer is water based ??

Any comments welcome please.

Is there a water based sealer on sale in UK ?? The toyota one does not look like a big container.

 

[stumog]

When I fitted mine added a little sikaflex 221 or something similar

 

[frank rabbets]

Sikalex instructions say to use in dry conditions only so that's not going to work on wet rubber.

 

[Richard Turner]

What about some of the soap used to fit tyres? That dries out ok.

 

[StarCruiser]

Frank, get yourself some of this
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/221384238072

Then forget the soap and water.
Put a bead of sealant in the glass side of the rubber, all around, then around the body where the metal just starts to roll Round into the screen aperture, sides and top in a continuous bead. Fit rubber to glass the put some para cord round in the bodywork slot in the rubber to cross at the bottom, and with an assistant and the scuttle panel removed, lower the screen onto the bottom lip and go inside to gently pull the string so it curls the lip of the rubber. You’ll need to have your assistant apply light pressure outside and hold the screen in place to start with. Work around evenly both sides finishing along the top towards one corner. Gently does it. A few slaps with a flat hand will help seat it.

When it’s finally in, press the outside Body edge of the rubber down. I used one of those little wooden wallpaper rollers for this. Watch for excess butyl and wipe or scrape it away. Leaving it to set for a day or two makes this easier. It goes like blu Tak.

I’ve used other makes and this is the best I’ve found.

 

[frank rabbets]

Is the sealant acting as a lubricant as well then Rich or don't I need a lubricant with new rubber?

Thanks

 

[stumog]

I have fitted loads of Windows and never had to use water or soap.

Sika or a pu will take a bit of time to go off.

 

[Towpack]

I used that Screenseal on my rear window and it certainly does what it says on the tube. Straight out of the tube it does offer a degree lubrication to ease the rubber into place.

 

[StarCruiser]

I have fitted loads of Windows and never had to use water or soap.

Sika or a pu will take a bit of time to go off.

PU is hellish to remove though isn’t it Stu? Cracking sealant but would be a b1tch if you had to replace the screen?

 

[mussy]

Make sure the rubber is clean, dry and warm(ish). Use any if the sealants mentioned above and you will be fine.

Once Chris sees this, he'll say no need for the sealant. But this is about the only time I have not listened to his experienced advice. Why? Because I have had 4 windscreen changes in my 89s and they all leaked without sealant, ie. I tried....

 

[stumog]

Rich it's fine most of the time it will peel off or you cut it.

You do get some none setting stuff that's pretty good but can't remember what that's called. Been some time since I fitted a window

 

[StarCruiser]

Rich it's fine most of the time it will peel off or you cut it.

You do get some none setting stuff that's pretty good but can't remember what that's called. Been some time since I fitted a window

Yes, I’ve used a Sika one but compared to the butyl one I’ve linked to it’s a mare to remove. You can push the screen back out without damage with the one I used. It’s also great for sealing around stuff going through bulkhead grommets and the like as it goes off like Blu Tak.

 

[flint]

I think this gets used quite often: http://www.arbo.co.uk/arbo-sealants/arbomast-autograde/

 

[frank rabbets]

Well it looks like the original screen was bonded in as there are remnants of the original sealer under all the crap fitters have rammed in over the years. The 1992 FWM says to use sealer (part number so and so) then to get the screen out use a wire to cut through. Well I'm not going anywhere near that so I've ordered to butyl Rich has suggested. I'm putting the rubber in dry.

Managed to get the screen out easily by myself and found lots of rust on the lower aperture.

Thanks for all the feedback.

 

[StarCruiser]

I think this gets used quite often: http://www.arbo.co.uk/arbo-sealants/arbomast-autograde/

It does Flint but it goes hard and powdery and cracks. It’s what Autoglass used on mine which stopped it leaking the fifth time they fitted it for all of 6 weeks. Suffice to say I wouldn’t use it.

 

[StarCruiser]

Well it looks like the original screen was bonded in as there are remnants of the original sealer under all the crap fitters have rammed in over the years. The 1992 FWM says to use sealer (part number so and so) then to get the screen out use a wire to cut through. Well I'm not going anywhere near that so I've ordered to butyl Rich has suggested. I'm putting the rubber in dry.

Managed to get the screen out easily by myself and found lots of rust on the lower aperture.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Sorry to hear about the rust Frank. Not an easy spot to repair.

Good luck with it.

 

[flint]

It’s what Autoglass used on mine

Ah, that's definitely enough of a non recommendation ! I've had a couple of vehicles which had had windscreens replaced by them before my ownership, in both cases rust in the A pillars had set in from careless fitting.

 

[frank rabbets]

All the rust gone with an angle grinder and metal etched, filled and etched again. Richards given me advice on the cord method as all the screens I've fitted over the years have had filler strips and not needed cords.

 

[frank rabbets]

I got cold feet fitting it myself and was lucky to find a self employed glass fitter less than 1 mile from the house. He actually answered the phone and knew what I wanted. A local land line can you believe. He came out and fitted it straight away for £45. People like that are a rare find now.