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Yet another Oil thread. Anyone else buying in bulk?

Ok, i would like to see some picures of this clean oil. On the dipstick maybe?
 
Hi Chris, you will find the pictures here:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-lc-80-thread.365673/page-13

Saying I would post them here was a little optimistic, I can't even edit a post without a load of grief, Crispin has looked at it and general posts seem better but, anything more and it all goes to pieces. Something with my ISP and the LCOC is just not right.

regards

Dave
 
4,800 miles. Stick pulled out of engine cold. Non dripped off.

oil 005.JPG
 
Mine was not dripped off as well Frank, it simply runs of the side off the side of the stick, IMO it indicates that the oil is not carrying any contaminates, also it was 24 degrees here this morning so the engine is cold but not as per the UK, mine is 10/40 yours at 15/40 would be thicker anyway. I would say that yours is pretty clean Frank IMO.

regards

Dave
 
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When I ran a diesel Land Rover my oil used to quickly turn to thin black ink and impossible to get off your hands :icon-biggrin:.
 
frank rabbets said:
When I ran a diesel Land Rover my oil used to quickly turn to thin black ink and impossible to get off your hands :icon-biggrin:.
Click to expand...

This is why I do a sacrificial oil change occasionally, a couple of gallons of cheap oil and new filter, start and run a few days, drain and new good quality oil and again a new filter. You are effectively diluting the soot content out, I love it when the owner of a diesel tells me how they look after their car, I pull the dipstick and ask if they can match the cleanliness, NEVER happened yet! :icon-biggrin:

regards

Dave
 
Dave 2000 said:
This is why I do a sacrificial oil change occasionally, a couple of gallons of cheap oil and new filter, start and run a few days, drain and new good quality oil and again a new filter. You are effectively diluting the soot content out, I love it when the owner of a diesel tells me how they look after their car, I pull the dipstick and ask if they can match the cleanliness, NEVER happened yet! :icon-biggrin:

regards

Dave
Click to expand...

I have been planning to do that for a long time 3 changes along with forte flush in 300 miles was the idea but there always seems to be something more important on the to do list .
 
I have only used flush supplements on engines from way back when, they were a bit aggressive in days gone by. I would just use a cheap oil for a few miles Shane and change the filter each time. Not so harsh on the internals IMO.

regards

Dave
 
I change my oil every 6000 miles and mine looks exactly like Franks at oil change time, I use a genuine filter but use a cheaper semi synth oil.
I like to change the oil regularly rather than get too worried about what oil to use mine has 171K on the clock and does not use any oil between changes and I do about 60% of my miles towing.
 
There are a lot of variables in play with engines which should be used to decide your change intervals. For example, my use varies quite a lot but the miles on the clock are genuine 'engine' miles. My 80 tends to be used long steady roads at around 60 MPH, motorways 80 MPH but more importantly very very rarely in traffic. When I lived in London a 5 mile journey might take an hour in traffic, engine running but not clocking up miles. Over here it is the reverse although there were three cars at the traffic lights this evening, better note that down. :icon-biggrin:

regards

Dave
 
I was dubious of flush Dave but from what i have read all it does is thin the oil so it drains easier , can't do much harm ticking over while parked surely ?
 
Cheers chaps, im only half way through my change interval. when i get closer to the 5000 mark ill post up. I can see you both fill to the full mark rather than half way, i do the same:icon-biggrin:
 
Shayne said:
I was dubious of flush Dave but from what i have read all it does is thin the oil so it drains easier , can't do much harm ticking over while parked surely ?
Click to expand...

Unsure mate but, of note is that components in the valve train are under more stress at idle than when rotating at speed, this is borne out by the amount of cam belts (enter any car here) broken as the driver come to a halt at the lights, belts rarely fail on the motorway for example IME. The crank and rod journal bearings needing to ride on a 'wave' of oil and pressure is lower at idle, I guess it would be lower if the flush has less viscosity?

I know years ago some people used to flush the engine with paraffin, I used to pour a drop in to flush a really badly contaminated engine and run at idle for three or four minutes AFAIK it never did any harm, I could not bring myself to just use paraffin.

Sorry I cannot offer any documented proof about the pro's and cons of flush nowadays but, I would argue that the more modern oils we use these days would negate the use of any other type of flush? If you went that way then I would do the flush and then run a cheap oil through (with filter changes) a couple of times, this would ensure that there is no solvent (flush) is left behind.

regards

Dave
 
Dave 2000 said:
Unsure mate but, of note is that components in the valve train are under more stress at idle than when rotating at speed, this is borne out by the amount of cam belts (enter any car here) broken as the driver come to a halt at the lights, belts rarely fail on the motorway for example IME. The crank and rod journal bearings needing to ride on a 'wave' of oil and pressure is lower at idle, I guess it would be lower if the flush has less viscosity?

I know years ago some people used to flush the engine with paraffin, I used to pour a drop in to flush a really badly contaminated engine and run at idle for three or four minutes AFAIK it never did any harm, I could not bring myself to just use paraffin.

Sorry I cannot offer any documented proof about the pro's and cons of flush nowadays but, I would argue that the more modern oils we use these days would negate the use of any other type of flush? If you went that way then I would do the flush and then run a cheap oil through (with filter changes) a couple of times, this would ensure that there is no solvent (flush) is left behind.

regards

Dave
Click to expand...

I very much doubt a better answer to my question can be found on the worldwide web cheers mate :thumbup:
 
Hi,

I brought a 20 ltr can of 10W 40 semi synth today for (IIRC) £24+vat from Euro parts and had it delivered on the van.

After it arrived I thought it was such a good deal I brought another can so should be sorted for a while.

It was "triple QX" I used it for the last oil change and in 6,000 miles not used a drop still on the max level of the dipstick with 170,000 miles on my 100 diesel, nothing negative to report the oil still looks reasonably fresh.

I am of the opinion that I would rather get an oil change in rather than spend weeks agonizing over what oil to use.
 
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