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Cv joint advice

That's another advantage with the LR/RR design. They run in EP oil so a leak becomes very obvious.

Have there been series 100 CVJ failures? I've never thought of that. The joints spin in air with no scatter protection.
 
Well that puts that to bed...£737 with discount EACH for Toyota Parts.

I can get them for £300 each in SA from toyota so they will go back in and i will do it in SA when I land if i dont get them from Amayama Trading or else where first.

Toyota have got to get to grips with there pricing as its getting crazy.
 
I am now chasing NTN cv joints to see if I can source some but its a very long shot.
 
Just to throw a spanner in the works so to speak and I might well regret this if I now end up cursing myself...................

My cv's have been clicking on full lock since I bought LJ about 5 years ago and neither one has failed yet and thats despite at times driving with not an ounce of mechanical consideration with both diff locks in and the 37" aggressive tyres doing there thing with plenty of loud pedal! :icon-twisted:

Perhaps I've just been ridiculously lucky, but thats my experience of worn clicky cv's. :?

Garage???? No that's far too posh for me.

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Dinning room table is far better. Thank god the wife is not about.

FYI the flowers add a nice touch I thought.

:lol:

How you finding the new clamps Warren?

I love mine. :thumbup:
 
Ben the clamps are great and even better at £17 for two...it was an eBay listing gone wrong.

As mentioned if it was not rebuilding the front axle i would not have known better and given the cost it fair to say they will be going back in until such a time that i can source parts cheaper or they start clicking.

Yes they may go bang but i guess that is a chance/risk i am willing to take.
 
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Well i whipped the drivers side out this evening and was impressed it only took me just on an hour and all i still need to do is punch out the bearing races and its all ready to go back in. Its amazing what you can do with a bit of focus and not stopping to take photos.

I can now see what a good cv should feel like compared to the one already discussed. I can post a video for you but this one has very little if any play at all. The only thing i want to now ask is if i can fit the drive shafts through the new oil seals and fill the diff with oil to check if they leak as there is some wear on the shafts and if not then tap the cv joints on but having just read what i have written that is not going to be possible as i wont be able to get the clamp off that holds the C clip in place.

Hmmm perhaps a photo or two would help

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I don't know what most think but the one is worse than the other and it's hard to tell if the oil seals where leaking as a result of this or if they where just worn. I am happy yo fit speedy sleeves if you think it's required or perhaps the best thing is to offer up the new oil seal and see how it fits. I could always just space the oil seal out by 1mm to wear a new spot I guess.
 
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£737 with discount EACH for Toyota Parts.

That is disgraceful.

Competition spec CVs for Defenders et al from Ashcroft are £450 for a pair. How on Earth Toyota can justify >£,1400 for a standard spec CV is beyond me. Unless we can source a sensible alternative my plan is to strip, clean and grease my genuine (??) CVs and run them until they let go or start to give sign that they are on their way out. I will carry aftermarket spares on a long trip.

So on that basis I would replace the worn genuine CV with a decent aftermarket CV and refit your non-worn genuine CV. If you buy two aftermarket CVs that will leave you with one as a spare and one worn-but-usable genuine spare. I wouldn't swap them over as torque stress is directional which is why its not uncommon to break a shaft when you are reversing out of a situation.

I would be keen to hear more about Chris's problems with aftermarket CVs and normal road use.

Rgds.
Paul.
 
I think it depends how you are using your cruiser.

I fitted HDKs a couple of years ago and have had no issues. Its my DD but I only use it for some laning with no real heavy off-road stuff.
Don't think they would like too much heavy abuse with huge tires etc..
 
Well I have bit the bullet and ordered two new CV's...lets see how they compare. If you going to do a job properly you need to be prepared to spend some money.
 
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I can't tell you much. I had some HDKs in there, not done many miles at all, no issues, no noise, no violent tank driving episodes and I was backing out of the drive when there was a pretty horrid crunching noise and all sorts of screaming and screeching. I pulled the CV and essentially it had exploded. The bell had split right from the lip of the cup to the shaft. The night before I had been driving in snow and stopped to winch a bloke back onto the road out of a verge. Nothing dramatic. Now, like some, I don't think that one failure should condemn all aftermarket CVs to the trash. But, I was building a vehicle that I wanted to rely on so I put Longfields in there and in this current build I put genuine CVs in. In part I didn't want to give HDK and Milner more money after buying 2 from them and not getting a refund. I appreciate that aftermarket ones are probably going to be a consumable if you hard core off road, but for on road use, I would expect, say, 25k miles out of one at least.

I had an old worn out genuine CV and I tried to cut it. It was like armour plate. Very very hard to even score it. The HDK on the other hand, I sectioned with a hacksaw. Now, maybe there is an opportunity here for someone in the know to take something like an HDK which incidentally are very nicely made, and take them apart and have them heat treated perhaps. Maybe face hardened. Quite possibly we could get much better CVs for a fraction of the price. Why are the Toyota ones so expensive? Tolerances? Production methods? Material? I don't know. But it's a thought. A specialist heat treating company may well be able to do something, especially if they knew what steel they were made of. They could section one and analyse it. They should not simply be plain steel. They need to be special steel or SG iron. We don't want them too hard and brittle but too soft and they deform under load and that leads to failure.

Any metallurgists out there? What do they sell in Oz?
 
I certainly would have use one of those again any day. The other I might Speedisleeve. The problem with setting the seal out slightly when you have deep rings like that is that the shaft will probably follow the seal, in other words it will either pull the seal into the groove or the shaft will migrate out and mate with the groove. Either way, I'd see accelerated wear in the seal lip. Yes over time of course, but there is more movement, up and down that lip causing wear. Now when you have a smooth indentation as many get it's not really a problem. But they are quite stark rings. Easy to sleeve it.
 
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Sorry Chris I have edited the post to read new CV's

I will look into a speedy sleeve for the one shaft.
 
Chris, you'd obviously had a bump on the head not remembering to put a cable tie round that cvj that exploded.

I can only assume that Toyota are dividing their fixed overheads by the small number of cvj's they sell, possibly smaller numbers each year. That also might explain in general why LC parts are more expensive in this country than some others.

I'm sure if a Toyo one exploded within 1 year you'd get your money back, possibly longer. I know my radiator has a 2 year guarantee.
 
Tie wrap? Damn, Frank if only I'd had your advice back then. Too late now!

When you look at these it always seems to be the casing and inner race that wears not the balls. Shame really because if it was the other way around, the balls could simply be replaced and the CV re used.
 
Out of interest i have seen and had a number of companies say they can rebuild a cv.....do they mean reassemble it for me or actually repair what is worn?
 
They should not simply be plain steel. They need to be special steel or SG iron. We don't want them too hard and brittle but too soft and they deform under load and that leads to failure.

Any metallurgists out there? What do they sell in Oz?

They should be a low alloy steel. By adding different alloying elements and in different quantities steels can be made to perform differently. eg. harder, more heat resistant, more resistant to expansion, more stable in really cold conditions. etc. etc.

Adding alloying elements that on there own might be much softer than normal low carbon steel can make the new low alloy steel much harder. For example weld can be a lot harder that the parent metal and this is because of what has come out of the end of your MIG torch, a steel filler wire covered in copper to stop it corroding on the real. The copper goes into the weld and makes it much harder than the steel around it, even though copper is normally obviously a very soft metal.

Chromoly is super tough and is what the longfield shafts and cv's are made from. That is a low alloy steel which consists mainly of chromium and molybdenum which when combined with low carbon steel produce a very strong light metal. :icon-ugeek:

Properly greased and maintained these should last a very long time in my view, it's the 'maintained' bit that gets neglected. I guess from new, Toyota dealers never look in there and by the time the cars were 10 years old or so they had been passed onto people who wouldn't go to a dealer for servicing, the seals went, grease got depleted etc etc and the damage began. If at every 25k the CVs had been removed and re packed properly from new then things may have been different. I have had CVs come out with no grease in at all! When I got the white one, it had clearly had a fix it and flog it job done on it and an aftermarket CV put in completely dry.

Saw this and thought of your post:

http://gearingdynamics.com.au/Greaseable-CV-Joint-for-Toyota-Landcruiser
 
The old grease, if any?, would just go into the ball/hub. I don't remember how much the joint itself takes assuming it's empty. I put 1 and 1/2 pints in each hub when I did mine. My passenger side one has just started clicking on full lock!!!!! I assume they click when dry and binding rather than worn as the joint should be unworn in that position assuming the balls are full size. Just off now to see if the shafts are hollow and I can pack some grease in there.

I wonder if there is enough room in there to gaiter them. Chris will know.
 
Someone beat them to it Ben. I remember someone on here ages ago had one line bored and they could grease through it. I reckon all the 'safety' features are hokey just there to satisfy the engineering inspection Nazis in Oz. How do you over grease a CV. I put about 1/4 tub in the joint and then the rest in the hub mostly to take up all the room so that there is less room for dirt and water in there. You really only need to grease the CV in my view. The cannon ball and hub don't touch, the felt seals don't need grease, the axle is lubed from the wet side of the diff. The CV doesn't move about, that's its whole purpose. So, I figure you fill it up to simply occupy the space. If anyone thinks that the grease works out of the hub into the CV joint, then they've had a bigger bump on the head than me and Frank together. When the inner seal goes, all that happens is that grease gets diluted and washed out of the housing. Water gets under the grease and sits in the swivel bearing. I think that it's a great idea myself. One or two pumps every few thousand miles would keep it fresh, topped up and cosy. If you did that for 20 years and 20000 miles then I'd expect it would get pretty full. But who'd do that? he grease would just drop out into the housing and build up until it reached the ABS ring. No way it would go past the inner seal - other than in the same way very small particles go through there with halfshaft movement as they do already. The stub is not hollow. There is barely a depression in there from the inside.
 
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