New Member - Mitch

[Rodger]

Hi Mitch,
Per Star's message above:
Snap-On are not the only people who supply the medium and I would think that the sand blast facility would have it as a medium.
Have a look at www.frost.co.uk

- online catalogue - and you'll undoubtedly be able to find a similar in Oz.

Re the hardtop: I have just measured the one I have and the distance between the wheels and it is just too short but I have big wheels fitted so it might just fit, even if it was slightly angled. I drew out the idea for a 'hardtop cage' using planks and by the time I finished and working out the overall dimensions, depth in particular, it wouldn't fit under my truck and I have a 2+" lift and big wheels! So after a bit of revised thinking for the 'frame' it became four angle planks screwed together to make an oblong, cut an 8' x 4' sheet to fill the underside and attach to the planks. Attach the hardtop to the planks using penny washers and screws. I guess, using pipe clamps it would fix to your Hi-Lux roof rack but with the 8 x 4 sealing the bottom there is much less wind getting inside. If you used the roof rack and a substantial piece of 8x4 then you wouldn't need the planks.
The roof on its own measures 6' 9" long x 5' 5" wide (widest point as it tapers to the front) and is between 4 and 5 inches deep.
Conversely and assuming that the windows on the FJ close, you could drill out the four corner rivet remains and some across the front and put the roof on and nut and bolt it down with spreader washers and then use loads of gaffer tape round the edges. It wouldn't be pretty but the roof is then in its natural position.
Sorry that this is a bit convoluted but when you asked me to explain I thought I better go and work it out and one thought leads to another and so on. And I hope it helps.
Cheers

​

 

[StarCruiser]

Photo of drawing please Rodge, my one functioning brain cell just started emitting steam through my ears…(never a good sign!)

 

[Rodger]

You'll have to excuse my poor drawings but I sort of picture things as I plan...

To me the cut down sheet (I said 8x4 and it would need to be 8x6 but Mitch is builder so that shouldn't be a problem) that's clamped to the roof rack would work or install the roof in its frame and screw and gaffer tape it.

Hopefully the drawing comes out.

Cheers

 

[MitchScheele]

Soda blasting is blasting with compressed air and baking soda otherwise known as bicarbonate of soda or sodium bicarbonate or simply bicarb. [emoji4]

http://youtu.be/Rld36m4azk4

Or the bigger gun for bigger jobs

http://youtu.be/RRorS3GUBmQ

thanks star, im gunna have to watch these later tonight when I get home from work! cheers

 

[MitchScheele]

Hi Mitch,
Per Star's message above:
Snap-On are not the only people who supply the medium and I would think that the sand blast facility would have it as a medium.
Have a look at www.frost.co.uk

- online catalogue - and you'll undoubtedly be able to find a similar in Oz.

Re the hardtop: I have just measured the one I have and the distance between the wheels and it is just too short but I have big wheels fitted so it might just fit, even if it was slightly angled. I drew out the idea for a 'hardtop cage' using planks and by the time I finished and working out the overall dimensions, depth in particular, it wouldn't fit under my truck and I have a 2+" lift and big wheels! So after a bit of revised thinking for the 'frame' it became four angle planks screwed together to make an oblong, cut an 8' x 4' sheet to fill the underside and attach to the planks. Attach the hardtop to the planks using penny washers and screws. I guess, using pipe clamps it would fix to your Hi-Lux roof rack but with the 8 x 4 sealing the bottom there is much less wind getting inside. If you used the roof rack and a substantial piece of 8x4 then you wouldn't need the planks.
The roof on its own measures 6' 9" long x 5' 5" wide (widest point as it tapers to the front) and is between 4 and 5 inches deep.
Conversely and assuming that the windows on the FJ close, you could drill out the four corner rivet remains and some across the front and put the roof on and nut and bolt it down with spreader washers and then use loads of gaffer tape round the edges. It wouldn't be pretty but the roof is then in its natural position.
Sorry that this is a bit convoluted but when you asked me to explain I thought I better go and work it out and one thought leads to another and so on. And I hope it helps.
Cheers

​

Thanks Rodger! yeah I will have a look at it tonight and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for that information, im glad star got lost as well cause my brain got fried trying to visualise what you were trying to comprehend haha!

 

[MitchScheele]

You'll have to excuse my poor drawings but I sort of picture things as I plan...

To me the cut down sheet (I said 8x4 and it would need to be 8x6 but Mitch is builder so that shouldn't be a problem) that's clamped to the roof rack would work or install the roof in its frame and screw and gaffer tape it.

Hopefully the drawing comes out.

Cheers
View attachment 24117

Thanks heaps mate! I understand now! haha, apart from the measurements being different as in OZ we are metric not imperial. but I do get your drift, I think best way to do it as you even said you cant fit it under your car will be on my racks on my hilux, my canopy is most likely going to be absolutely loaded with parts that he has taken off already.. gunna be a fun drive home lol
thanks again for the photos and taking the time out of your day to help!

 

[Shayne]

I can feel your enthusiasm for rebuilding the 40 and i can imagine myself doing it ass about face and ending up with a shed full of shiney and newly painted parts with nothing to bolt them to and with no room to work on the bit i should have done first .

The body is the fun bit but the quality of restored motors lies underneath . With a limited budget of time and money i would start with the chassis ignoring everything else until the chassis was finished , then dedicate time and money to the next thing that needed to be bolted on , restoring and replacing bit by bit one step at a time .
A brand new bonnet delivered today will need painted again before it's actually fitted if its shifted around the workshop constantly for a year or two .

I wish you luck with it though sounds like we are about equal in expertise when it comes to vehicle restoration but that just makes it more of an adventure and every little achievement all the more enjoyable

 

[MitchScheele]

I can feel your enthusiasm for rebuilding the 40 and i can imagine myself doing it ass about face and ending up with a shed full of shiney and newly painted parts with nothing to bolt them to and with no room to work on the bit i should have done first .

The body is the fun bit but the quality of restored motors lies underneath . With a limited budget of time and money i would start with the chassis ignoring everything else until the chassis was finished , then dedicate time and money to the next thing that needed to be bolted on , restoring and replacing bit by bit one step at a time .
A brand new bonnet delivered today will need painted again before it's actually fitted if its shifted around the workshop constantly for a year or two .

I wish you luck with it though sounds like we are about equal in expertise when it comes to vehicle restoration but that just makes it more of an adventure and every little achievement all the more enjoyable

thanks Shayne,
that does make sense and I defiantly understand where your coming from, regardless of how I do it ill prob still do it asse about face like you said haha, im lucky enough to have 3 car shed spaces dedicated ready for the FJ which and the other space has an Evo 7 in it so I have plenty of room for activities haha
thanks Shayne

 

[MitchScheele]

Ok guys so change of plans!
i have actually found an FJ40 that is local and with a little bit of luck i was able to snag it up.
i got it for $1800 delivered! pretty sweet in my opinion.
i was going to upload photos tonight but it seems photo bucket is down atm, i might try another upload website after this is done.
its a 1972 weird green colour, seems to be all there, ill put photos up and sort thru the spare parts and you guys might be able to share so insight as to what is missing.. it doesn't have the canopy roof setup it has a torn up canvas one which will be in the bin straight away, rust situation is a lot better than the one i was going to drive 15 hours to pick up.. this one however doesn't start he believes its something to do with the starter motor solenoid? not even sure what that is at this point haha... stupid builder knowledge if anyone can share any tips on how for me to get her going that would be amazing if not ill resort to having a fiddle with her once I've given her a good clean out.
ill try find a way to upload the photos now
cheers
mitch

 

[MitchScheele]

ohh and i nearly forgot, it comes with a 253, and all the running gear to run it which I'm gunna have to have a think about if thats the way i want to go. anyways i couldn't figure out how to put photos up so ill just have to wait for photo bucket.. hopefully i can put photos up tomorrow and let the fun begin1

Yeww

Cheers
mitch

 

[MitchScheele]

So today i got my FJ!
Super happy with it! come with the original owners manual! and the 253...
Decided against putting the 253 in the car, like i originally planned i want to keep the car original.

I have started by pulling the patrol bullbar off the FJ.. looked way out of place and i prefer no bar anyways, took the old ratty canvas cover off and just started sorting threw it and playing with it. i hooked it up and tried to kick it over, just got the usual kicking from the starter, tried to arc it out and finally got it to kick and the starter started smoking so i stopped, so i figure i need to either get a new starter which I'm assuming is going to be hard or maybe get the starter reconditioned? what are your thoughts?

Anyways here are some photos!



Coming Off the trailer was a mission, the bloke had 2 stock 40 series rims and then 2 not stock that didn't fit and didn't allow the tyres to roll so i had to block and tackle her off the trailer and put her on some wheel dollys so i can get her around the shed. I'm hoping to pick up 2 stock 40 series tomorrow off a bloke on the net so ill be able to roll her around better and not rely on the dollys so much.







She's bit low in the rear end cause of the gearbox and 253

My internet is being slow so ill upload more hopefully tomorrow...

cheers
mitch

 

[StarCruiser]

Woohoo that looks pretty good.

Re the engine, have you tried turning it over by hand, sounds as if it may be seized. Probably not to bad but could be what's causing the starter trouble.
Next stage is to pull the starter off it and have a little look inside.

I'm about as green as your truck right now. [emoji4][emoji4] Nice find.

 

[MitchScheele]

Woohoo that looks pretty good.

Re the engine, have you tried turning it over by hand, sounds as if it may be seized. Probably not to bad but could be what's causing the starter trouble.
Next stage is to pull the starter off it and have a little look inside.

I'm about as green as your truck right now. [emoji4][emoji4] Nice find.

Thanks star!
How do i turn it over by hand? Yeah im going to do that just might be moving house in a week or two so hesitant on how much i pull off lol

Cheers

 

[StarCruiser]

Take the plugs out, work out which way to turn it by the direction of the fan. Make sure it's in neutral, grasp the pulley on the front of the crankshaft and turn it in the direction it should go. It should be stiff but not impossible to turn. If it is too stiff then it has possibly seized through inactivity.

See how you go with that. Try to feel what the engine is doing inside (just in case you feel anything that feels slack). Oh and mind your fingers in the belts. [emoji15]

 

[MitchScheele]

Take the plugs out, work out which way to turn it by the direction of the fan. Make sure it's in neutral, grasp the pulley on the front of the crankshaft and turn it in the direction it should go. It should be stiff but not impossible to turn. If it is too stiff then it has possibly seized through inactivity.

See how you go with that. Try to feel what the engine is doing inside (just in case you feel anything that feels slack). Oh and mind your fingers in the belts. [emoji15]

Thanks star,

Yesterday i had a fiddle with her.. im in the middle of gettimg ready for a move of house so dont wanna pull too much off but im going to pull the starter off the car and have a play with it i have a feeling it is just dirty inside. Also need to have a look at the throttle it seems to be stuck on but ill play with that once ive done the starter. One step at a time haha.

Cheers

 

[Rodger]

Hi Mitch,

The FJ looks pretty good with very little metal worm.
Could be brushes in the starter - a relatively easy and cheap fix. But try turning it over by hand - there should be a 24mm (?) nut inside the crank pulley which may make turning it easier. If it has been stood for a while use some carb cleaner on the throttle as the fuel in carbs when stood goes sticky, like a glue. Carb cleaner will usually shift it.

Regards,

 

[Big dre]

On you starter problem I put in a dixie

So today i got my FJ!
Super happy with it! come with the original owners manual! and the 253...
Decided against putting the 253 in the car, like i originally planned i want to keep the car original.

I have started by pulling the patrol bullbar off the FJ.. looked way out of place and i prefer no bar anyways, took the old ratty canvas cover off and just started sorting threw it and playing with it. i hooked it up and tried to kick it over, just got the usual kicking from the starter, tried to arc it out and finally got it to kick and the starter started smoking so i stopped, so i figure i need to either get a new starter which I'm assuming is going to be hard or maybe get the starter reconditioned? what are your thoughts?

Anyways here are some photos!



Coming Off the trailer was a mission, the bloke had 2 stock 40 series rims and then 2 not stock that didn't fit and didn't allow the tyres to roll so i had to block and tackle her off the trailer and put her on some wheel dollys so i can get her around the shed. I'm hoping to pick up 2 stock 40 series tomorrow off a bloke on the net so ill be able to roll her around better and not rely on the dollys so much.







She's bit low in the rear end cause of the gearbox and 253

My internet is being slow so ill upload more hopefully tomorrow...

cheers
mitch

put in a Dixie starter

 

[MitchScheele]

So today i actually had a chance to get the old girl out of the shed and have a play and try get her started... after an hour of moving all my other toys to get it out of the shed i tried to get her started... put a new battery in and some fuel in the carby no luck... pulled the starter off and cleaned her up and it tried to wind over but still no luck.. the starter went red hot and started smoking... i then continued to check and make sure timing was correct and checked plugs and leads... yes they were old but didnt seem too bad... still no luck... ended up going and picking up new plugs, leads and a recod starter for $200 bucks and she fired up 1st time WOOO! for obvious reasons it coughed and spluttered for awhile as it hadnt been started in from what i could gather from pervious owner nearly 6 years! So from doing this ive found a few things that need fixing and im going to do a full service on her but HAPPY DAYS! Im very happy.. i will try and upload a few photos tonight and video if i can... but thought id post the progress...

Cheers mitcg

 

[Rodger]

Great news, Mitch.
Looking at the photos, I think you'd be better staying with the original motor, which you kind of imply, as the 253 appears to be an old Holden engine that went out of production around 1981 and when new produced only slightly more power than the 2F.
Looking forward to the ongoing story and photos, of course!!

Regards,

 

[MitchScheele]

Great news, Mitch.
Looking at the photos, I think you'd be better staying with the original motor, which you kind of imply, as the 253 appears to be an old Holden engine that went out of production around 1981 and when new produced only slightly more power than the 2F.
Looking forward to the ongoing story and photos, of course!!

Regards,

Cheers Rodger
Yeah I'm definitely keeping the original motor as I'm trying to keep it original as much as possible, the 253 will most likely be sold and go towards getting the rest of the parts for my fi I need the front bar, front and rear seats, rear barn doors, roof and side panels so if I can find someone in oz who is chasing a 253 I will sell. I'll try put photos up as soon as I get a spare second