Replacing the windscreen rubber

[Citizen Brown]

Changing the old style of screens is quite easy. By old I mean non-bonded. The trick is not smashing the glass. Here is a rough guide to the steps:-

Taking out

1. Remove A-pillar plastic trims and cover dash with an old sheet (tape it so vents are covered)

2. Use an old blunt screwdriver or hard plastic spatula to "tuck" the inside lip of the rubber seal over the metal. Do this a little bit at a time and work in different areas around the perimeter until it is all out.

3. Tricky bit (so get someone to stand outside to get hold of glass) push out the screen and rubber surround. i have in past sat in passenger seats and pushed with my feet!

4. Screen and rubber is now out so put it somewhere safe to work on. ( wheelie bin with a blanket over will do) This is the stage that the breakages occur

5. Remove rubber seal. Ideally replace (what is the cost of this?) but if not scrape all the old sealant off and clean rubber with soap and water.

6. When all clear and dry re-fit the rubber to the screen. It usually is not needed but you may want to put a thin smear of sealant into the glass-groove

7. SEALANT - make sure you buy the old style black sticky stuff and NOT the one for bonded screens. It should be about £5-7 a tube.

8. Clean off all of the old sealant from window frame and then put a line of sealant all of the way around in the angle of the frame.

9. On the "frame" groove of the rubber seal you need to insert some cord.

10. The photo is of a nifty tool for doing this. I had lost mine years ago and when I happened across this on the Flea had to buy it £15.00 including hard plastic spatula - see step 2

PUTTING BACK IN
11. put 4 "loops" in the cord half way down each straight on the screen.

12. Lift screen and rubber (preferably 2 people) and place into aperture and press in. Make sure loops dangle inside the car

13. Start at bottom loop and while glamorous assistant keeps pressure on the windscreen from outside pull the cord inwards. The rubber seal should follow and be back where it started off. Do about 20cm on first loop and then pull in 20cm or so on top loop, same for each side and then GENTLY work around each loop a few CMs at a time. Ensure that the GA follows you and keeps pressure on

14. Pressure should be firm but not so as to hurt your palm (never use a rubber mallet)

15. The corners will be the hardest to press and pull in, just take your time

16. Screen will be in and then you just need to clean remnants off the inside of the rubber.

Hope this sheds some light..

 

[Bat21]

.... The trick is not smashing the glass....

This bit did make me smile

Well my new rubber is 12 months old now..... and it's still under the bed

Some useful tips there CB, but not sure what this bit means?

.... Clean off all of the old sealant from window frame and then put a line of sealant all of the way around in the angle of the frame.

 

[Citizen Brown]

You will have gathered that the "the trick is not..." is from personal experience. A red XR3i rear screen to be precise! Funny now but not when your looking at a boot full of tiny squares of glass and there's a bloke on his way to buy it!

Angle of frame.. difficult without photos but the window frame is made up of the inner and outer skins that are spot welded together. The "strip" where the welds are is where the "bodywork" groove in the rubber seal will sit over and grip. The sealant needs putting on the outer side of this strip where the strip forms a 90 degree with the outer skin on the bodywork.

There should be the remnants of the old sealant in the area where the new needs to go. You will only need thin bead, like toothpaste size.

 

[warrenpfo]

Bat you dont want to part with you front windscreen seal do you??

I take it the sealant i need it is the one that does not set rock hard but rather remains pliable/soft. Like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Windscree..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item565df0a159

I have just been out to inspect and I am leaking in both bottom corners and it must be replaced before it leaks further.

 

[frank rabbets]

Hi Warren

You might have holes in your bulkhead/screen frame down the bottom in the centre caused by rust. The usual water/rubber problem. Angle grinder with a wire brush then fibreglass? Good idea going for that stuff on ebay if it's like what I'm thinking. Like very sticky none drying chewing gum. I'd like to know how you get on as I'm about to tackle mine.

I waited for some very hot weather to dry out all the electrics behind the side panels then sprayed them with WD40. I've had a constantly leaking screen but no electrical problems.

I'd like to see some pics of the characteristics of that sealer in action.

 

[warrenpfo]

Frank the screen was replaced by the PO only recently and either they used the same rubber or did a shoddy job. I can hear wind noise for one and move it with my hand. When peeling back the screen there is no bondo or anything at all so fingers crossed that's the problem. Will post some pics as it raining so can show you the water dripping

 

[guyc]

My new to me 80 has some rust along the top edge of the windscreen and some slightly moist areas at the bottom of the windscreen pillars. It seems to be a common characteristic and there are a few posts on here about it.

As the windscreen has a couple of chips I thought I'd renew the screen as it will need removing to deal with the rust.

I went into my local Toyota garage to enquire about a screen - £170 for the screen and £70 for the seal which didn't seem bad. What is bad is that the screens are no longer available and the seals are on back order.

I've put a wanted post on here but are there other options? I see Karl is on line now and someone has mentioned 80 Breaker.

Cheers

Guy

 

[Chris]

I'd avoid 80 breaker at all costs, but that's my business. Ask Karl for one. He's usually got them.

Guy the bits at the bottom of the pillars, unless you tell me they're actually wet have been like that for a very long time. Since before Scott had it actually. It's evidence of maybe a blocked sunroof drain. Never seen any actual moisture. The rust along the top of the screen is one of the 80's few faults actually. But it's a sort of double skin up there and can be fixed quite easily, especially with the screen out. It's possible to repaint that section black too against the seal rather than have to try and spray it to match the original paint. I did this on the rear screen of mine.

 

[Dave2000]

I have replaced the rubber on mine a couple of times. First was a copy that a local screen fitter used, it leaked like a leaky thing in the car wash. Then an OE rubber, same garage and he used a powered gun with a self setting mystic, this the same as used to bond screens into modern cars.

He assured me the only way it sets rock hard is when a voltage is passed through cables that many modern screens have pre installed, this allows the car's to be driven within an hour.

Unfortunately the mastic does set hard but after about eight hours, the 80 body flexes when going over rough ground and the screen squeaks like mad when cold until the rubber warms and softens, drives me bonkers, the car warms and I forget about it, no leaks though.

When I eventually get around to it I will have a new screen but give the installer an OEM rubber and non setting mastic.

Regards

Dave

 

[guyc]

Noted on 80 Breaker and I've now asked Karl.

It's bone dry at the moment but I thought I could feel moisture when it was raining. I'll have to wait until we get some rain again or I'll get the hosepipe out and do a better check.

Noted on the paint it black idea - I'll just have to be brave and get the screen out.

Cheers

Guy

 

[chapel gate]

personally I would go with a new oem gasket. the price on a new genuine screen is very good, but may as well be 20 pence if there showing no longer available, which I'm finding hard to believe.

if your intent on going second hand make sure its a Toyota screen, a lot have been replaced under insurance and will be after market.

 

[Dave2000]

The only issue I have with aftermarket screens is it is difficult to get one with a tint, not always noticeable once fitted until someone points it out.

Not heard of any fitment issues with AM, but here in Spain the law was recently changed that only trained fitters can fit screens.

The local body shop guy has to call in a screen guy to remove and install screens if needed to make body repairs.

Regards

Dave