90 Series Transfer Case Oil Leak

[TonyP]

Right, after servicing the handbrake and and doing a quick check in preparation for the MOT this week I noticed that Lil' Blue has sprung a leak from the transfer case. Not a gushing flow but enough to warrant some concern.

I think it's leaking from the front shaft oil seal....

Do you think I will be able to change the seal without having to drop the transfer case... really don't want to be going down that route

 

[silvercruiser]

Hello Tony that's exactly where mine is leaking. i think you just disconnect the prop and pull the flange off then you should be able to get at the output shaft seal to change.
Obviously you will need to drain the oil out first. i plan to do mine soon. If any body knows any different on how its done then let us know .

Joe

 

[TonyP]

Go on Joe, you first! I am a great believer in learing from others mistakes

 

[Chris]

That's about it guys. I seem to remember someone going to the main stealer to have this done and it cost them £80. You need to drop the shaft, remove the companion flange and dust seal etc but it's a pretty straight forward job as far as I know. Now you need to stop the flange from turning whilst you get the staked nut off the end of the drive shaft. You might need to make a tool for that. (I made one myself from some steel flat bar) Best to have a quick look on Toyo in terms of what is where. Never had a leak there before but in reality if you off road hard and have a front locker as well there is bound to be more strain placed on all components.

Chris

 

[Chris]

Had a look and there doesn't seem to be anymore than that. I would mark everything up with a paint marker and make sure that you don't let the slip yoke come apart when you drop the prop. Just best that everything goes back the way it came out. I would order the seal and a new nut. Make sure that you torque that up correctly.

Chris

 

[Crispin]

You might need to make a tool for that. (I made one myself from some steel flat bar)

...off to the dealer I got with my £80 in hand. With change from £100 I can get some cold beers while I wait

 

[TonyP]

You might need to make a tool for that. (I made one myself from some steel flat bar)

...off to the dealer I got with my £80 in hand. With change from £100 I can get some cold beers while I wait

+1 on that. I know a seal is prob only going to be max £10, but for me to do that it's going to take at least a couple of hours... I may get a quote from them just to see

 

[Chris]

Tony, I'm disappointed. After all that you did with the half shaft, doing this is a breeze. Just don't let LB know that you are planning a trip to the dealer! They might go poking around under there.

4 bolts and one nut. Surely it's worth doing. Not even an hour's work. Shame, the oil was new too.

Chris

 

[BobMurphy]

C'mon, its not difficult . .

Drop the front propshaft and undo the stake nut (it could be tight):

Draw off the Companion Flange (its NOT on a taper so comes off easily):

(This is the rear flange but its practically the same as the smaller front flange).

You then have plenty of room around the shaft in which to insert a Seal-Puller (or equivalent).

(Again, this is the rear, but the front is similar - The front and rear seals are not identical, so make sure you get the right one (D.A.M.H.I.K. ))

Tap the new seal in and put it all together. Use a drop of thread locker and torque the nut to 87 lbs/ft.

Job done.



Bob.

 

[TonyP]

Thanks for the pics Bob, looks straight forward...... I was just being lazy

I'll order the parts up and take a bash

 

[Nuclear Chicken]

It's easy peasy. I did my 120 from underneath on the garage floor. Pretty mush as the 90. A bit awkward but no big deal. Seal was £13. Flange pulls off, as Bob says, quite easily. Just make sure you mark the prop and flange connections and reassemble exactly as it was so there is no out-of-balance problem. and, if like mine you are a bit low on oil, you don't even have to drain it. In fact, thinking about it, removing the 'punch' from the nut before loosening was the hardest bit.

Go on, you can do it. Give it a go.

 

[TonyP]

So LB just came back from it's MOT.........



PASSED with a advisory on a noisy exhaust

Wiped away all the dripping oil, and sprayed liberal amounts of brake cleaner all over and it did not even get a mention

Now just to replace the seal

 

[Crispin]

Good stuff!

Tell him (her?) to turn down the hearing aid next time!

Surely a noisy exhaust is an opinion without a decibel meter????

 

[TonyP]

Well what the tester said was the rule is "compared to other vehicles...." so compared to other cars on the road it's loud... either way it's passed which is all I care about

 

[Chris]

Just up the road is the famous Scoobyclinic for Imprezas. Loud exhaust - they have to be kidding. You should hear this lot.
Well done, Tony. Give Lil Blue a cup of oil from me and a pat on the bonnet.

Now get out there and drive!

Chris

 

[ignat]

Looks like mine's sprung a leak at the same place!

Is this the correct part number for the seal? 90312?23001

 

[TonyP]

Looks like mine's sprung a leak at the same place!

Is this the correct part number for the seal? 90312?23001

Sorry been away for a few days. Well I intend on ordering all these bits, may as well as I don't want to revisit it:
90311-41008 SEAL, OIL (FOR TRANSFER CASE)
90312-23001 SEAL, OIL(FOR TRANSFER OUTPUT SHAFT COMPANION FLANGE)
90179-22016 NUT (FOR TRANSFER OUTPUT SHAFT)

Seems to be two seals, one on the companion flange and one on the output shaft......

 

[Chris]

Tony just check the diagram carefully as I think that one of those might be the dust shield which isn't needed. It's just a metal frisbee that keeps small rocks out. It's not a seal as such.

C

 

[TonyP]

Thanks Chris, well see what Mr Rubie comes back with on price, and if it's not expensive I may as well get it. No point in starting the job and not having the spares

 

[TonyP]

Right, good news is the parts arrived... extra special delivery from Mr Rubie

Bad news is I did not manage to change the seal. Removed the bash plates, disconnected the drive shaft (which was a crap job), but for the life of me I could not get the nut off holding the flang piece... I managed to open up the bent in piece, but clearly not enough. Eventually I drillied it as much as I dared (I purchased a spare nut) and even with a breaker bar on it I could not get it undun....

There is jut not enough room lying on the floor under the truck to get sufficient everage on it

So I am going to find a local macanic who will do the job for me. Give him the parts and pay him his hourly rate!!

Not a happy bunny right now