90 Series Transfer Case Oil Leak

[silvercruiser]

Right, good news is the parts arrived... extra special delivery from Mr Rubie

Bad news is I did not manage to change the seal. Removed the bash plates, disconnected the drive shaft (which was a crap job), but for the life of me I could not get the nut off holding the flang piece... I managed to open up the bent in piece, but clearly not enough. Eventually I drillied it as much as I dared (I purchased a spare nut) and even with a breaker bar on it I could not get it undun....

There is jut not enough room lying on the floor under the truck to get sufficient everage on it

So I am going to find a local macanic who will do the job for me. Give him the parts and pay him his hourly rate!!

Not a happy bunny right now

still on my to do list are you sure its not reverse thread. just a thought.

Joe

 

[24Seven]

Impact Wrench, has those nuts off in seconds, no need to even hold the flange.

I use one of these

 

[TonyP]

still on my to do list are you sure its not reverse thread. just a thought.

Joe

Nah, double checked that, defo normal thread.

Impact Wrench, has those nuts off in seconds, no need to even hold the flange.

I use one of these

Hmmm, will that be strong enough? I would much rather purchase another tool, than pay a mechaninc to do this for me....

 

[24Seven]

Hmmm, will that be strong enough? I would much rather purchase another tool, than pay a mechaninc to do this for me....

That model is but it's not cheap, I expect a cheaper air powered model would also work, think I have also seen a cheap 12v external powered impact wrench.

 

[Chris]

What you need, Tony, is a big Northern Lad. In gear, foot on the brakes and Hnnnngghhhhh. It'll come off.

C

 

[TonyP]

What you need, Tony, is a big Northern Lad. In gear, foot on the brakes and Hnnnngghhhhh. It'll come off.

C

Well I tried my hardest... honest Guv. Decided in the end to get the tool and I will have another bash as soon as I get it. Might be an expensive purchase to no avail!

 

[Chris]

I have a flat bar with a hole in the end for a bolt and a half moon cut out of it to fit around the drive flange. You bolt that on through one of the propshaft bolt holes and then when you turn the nut, the flange doesn't turn. OK poor explanation, but it's like using two spanners together, one holding and one loosening.

C

 

[TonyP]

I have a flat bar with a hole in the end for a bolt and a half moon cut out of it to fit around the drive flange. You bolt that on through one of the propshaft bolt holes and then when you turn the nut, the flange doesn't turn. OK poor explanation, but it's like using two spanners together, one holding and one loosening.

C

Yeah I understand that, perfect explanation. I managed to wedged the flange end with a makeshift plan, and I heaved on the other end till I was blue in the face... was amusing to be honest. I think the real issue is that there is not enough space when lying under the car to get enough leverage...... then again maybe I am too puney, yeah that's it... I am not man enough for the job

 

[Chris]

Not enough room under Lil Blue??? I have seen people walk under there without banging their heads. Don't you have any ramps?

Chris

 

[TonyP]

Not enough room under Lil Blue??? I have seen people walk under there without banging their heads. Don't you have any ramps?

Chris

No ramps, just some axle stands which don't make much difference to LB And no, I have spent my quota on tools for a while

 

[DaveWall]

What you lot need is a Torque Multiplier.... They are super cool (in a Man way...)

I have an old heavy duty one - they are basically a planetary gear - mine is 6 turns on the input (ish) to 1 turn on the output, makes undoing rusty tight threadlocked nuts easy peasy

Dave

 

[TonyP]

What you lot need is a Torque Multiplier.... They are super cool (in a Man way...)

I have an old heavy duty one - they are basically a planetary gear - mine is 6 turns on the input (ish) to 1 turn on the output, makes undoing rusty tight threadlocked nuts easy peasy

Dave

Thanks for the tip Dave. If my nut driver does not do the job, I'll look into these.

 

[DaveWall]

No problem - the good thing is that there are lots of 2nd hand older ones for sale check ebay etc, as everyone seems to have forgotten about them LoL, Very simple effective design, just make sure you have a decent fitting (pref 6 sided) socket on when winding the torque on, and if your turning the Multiplier with a long bar, just remember you are multiplying the force up massively!

If your anywhere near Devizes Wilts at any time, your welcome to borrow the one I have...

 

[TonyP]

No problem - the good thing is that there are lots of 2nd hand older ones for sale check ebay etc, as everyone seems to have forgotten about them LoL, Very simple effective design, just make sure you have a decent fitting (pref 6 sided) socket on when winding the torque on, and if your turning the Multiplier with a long bar, just remember you are multiplying the force up massively!

If your anywhere near Devizes Wilts at any time, your welcome to borrow the one I have...

Thanks for the offer Dave. Interesting enough seems as if lil'Blue has self healed this one..... checked this morning and there are no signs of any leaks... maybe Strata Florida sorted it for me. Jokes aside, I will take another crack at this soon

 

[Chris]

Or maybe.........

There's no oil left in the diff?

Oh come on, it had to be said.

C

 

[TonyP]

Or maybe.........

There's no oil left in the diff?

Oh come on, it had to be said.

C

Quite possibly true I did top it up before we left and I only added about 50ml of oil, and that was afrer doing about 400 miles from when I first noticed the leak, so I very much doubt it has run out. Having said that... I will soon find out when I go and replace the seal

 

[Chris]

I'm sure it will be fine Tony. These things tend to weep a little bit when they go, but oil loss is unlikely to be substantial. It may well have cured itself with a little dried oil and muck. The breather is clear for sure so the diff can't be under any pressure. It comes through the floor into the wheel arch inside. Make sure, occasionally, this the pipe is still attached. It's a pretty well secured connection on there.

Chris

 

[TonyP]

Well I finally managed to get some quality time for me and LB and took another crack at the oil seal..... I purchased the 220nm torque drive mentioned in this thread, but surprise surprise it did not undo the blot. In the end I use a longer bar and found a different position where I was able to exert more force and it came loose

After that it was a straight forward job, removed the flange bit, replaced the inner seal on the flange and the bigger seal on the case itself, put it all back together. Took all of a hour

The seal looks slightly different, the new one has a bigger lip to it, but it fits ok so I assume it will be fine. Some pics if you are interested:

Inner Seal, new on the left:

Outer seal, new on the left:

I also had some time to change the brushed on the alternator as they were worn. Straight forward job apart from one bloody screw getting rounded....

All in all a good day, noticed some new dents in the ASFIR plates so these are doing their job well

 

[Chris]

Well done Tony. Nice one. I knew it wasn't a very long job. Good stuff on the brushes too. Incidentally, the bearings in the alternator were replaced shortly before you had it so it should be set for another 100k.

C

 

[silvercruiser]

Nice one Tony i was going to do this job today but when i looked i had ordered the wrong seal and also thanks to you i didnt realise it had another seal behind the flange so il get this on order. Joe