Front disk removal

[Knucklehead]

My old wagon is getting close to needing the front brake disks replaced.
Of course being a complete **** I didn't think to replace them when had hubs off recently to repack the front bearings

Anyhow, I am wondering if possible to bash the old disks off through the gap in the disk backing plate?
Maybe I'm missing something as not a job I've done before.

Trying to avoid having to pull the hubs again and messing up my lovely new grease seals!

Also does anybody have a good recommendation for replacements?
Still do a lot of on/off road miles in the 80 so not looking some of the cheepo stuff floating about.

Appreciate any advice as usual.

Dave.

 

[Chris]

Dave the disc is bolted onto the back of the hub, so it's hubs off I'm afraid. It's really a pretty quick and easy job though and resetting the lock nuts etc should be easy too now that the bearings are run in as it were.

There are some good discs out there. I went with some slotted front one. I think Roughtrax do some. I'd avoid the Milner ones. They're a bit variable and I have warped one before now.

 

[frank rabbets]

Always get a quote from Toyota. Sometimes their prices are competitive. As for quality mine show little signs of wear and have done 148,000 miles !! No off road mud though.

 

[Chris]

Roughtrax sell a genuine Toyota kit with discs and genuine pads. Pretty cheap. And they will be with you tomorrow. But the drilled and slotted discs look awesome.

 

[frank rabbets]

Crikey Chris I might be tempted to get some from Roughtrax. Mine are not worn but may be brittle. I had a disc shear off around the hub once. The car was driveable as the hub just rotated with the friction part of the disc held by the calliper. It was very noisy and pulled badly on braking but I managed to get home.

 

[Knucklehead]

Cheers for replies fellas. Yep, kinda thought it was hub back off job. Now that I see your picture it would be kinda tricky to get off otherwise!
Do like the look of those slotted ones Chris. Suspect my fronts are original and lasted 200K+ so OE worth a price up as well.

What are your thoughts on just reusing the grease seals?
Thinking more of the inner bearing seal. Its only been replaced when did repack couple of weeks ago.
Can easily replace it again when remove hubs but seems a bit of a waste.

Teach me for not replacing the sods at the time.

 

[Chris]

The only time I replace those is when I replace the inner bearing. I wouldn't give it a second thought. They aren't really grease seals, they just about keep dust and crap out if you are lucky. Leave them be. Just don't drop the outer bearing in the dirt as you pull the hub off. Stick your thumb in there as you pull.

if you go with some of those or the OEM ones, treat yourself to a set of their braided hoses too. Flippin awesome. I'd have the black slotted and grooved one myself. New pads and braided hoses.

 

[Knucklehead]

Cheers Chris. Just had a look at Rough Trax site. First time I've heard of them.
Bloody good price for genuine disk and pads and their slotted jobs also look the part.

Hope the misses is in a good mood when gets home from work

 

[Chris]

I have used them several times recently and when they say next day they really do mean next day. They have also altered listings based on my comments to them. Their stuff is good. I fitted one of their non genuine oil filters recently and 1000 miles on the oil is STILL clean. Ok it's not golden but it's clean. Very unscientific perhaps but it's clearly doing a good job filtering out the crud so far.

Have a trawl through the 80 section and just put together a nice care package.

 

[Knucklehead]

Will do. Thanks again.

 

[fbnss]

currently thinking about having a go at axle refurb and have a big shopping list with them. umming and arring about hitting the checkout button as im a total novice. But as for roughtrax, my very first order from them went missing ( surf bumpers) DPD said that they had delivered it and it had been signed for and i asked who had signed for it. The driver had signed my name as "unsigned" Roughtrax were very helpful and sent out another order to my work address no fuss.

 

[Chris]

Get on with it man .....

Glove up, man up and ... well you get the general idea.

We're here to help. Plenty of illustrations on what to do. Very few tools needed.

 

[fbnss]

Get on with it man .....

Glove up, man up and ... well you get the general idea.

We're here to help. Plenty of illustrations on what to do. Very few tools needed.

Yes ive been reading up on it and watching vids on youtube. looks simple enough ish but im sure ill manage to f it up somehow. I do have a couple of questions though when ive save my pennies a bit further, first one might seem completely stupid but it never gets mentioned. Do you drain the diff before pulling bits off the ends? A quiet yes will do...
2nd, i figured if i do it myself them amayama is the way to go for CV's as its been mentioned they are clicking, i keep finding different part numbers in searches. What is the code for an august 93 hdj80 with abs? dont want an expensive mistake!
Thanks for your help and sorry for the hi jack

 

[Knucklehead]

Oi, sod off my thread!

This thread should help with part numbers:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/53830-HDK-C-V-joints?p=416112#post416112
Definitely worth fitting the later style CV and longer drive shaft flange.

Guess you could jack up one side at a time to keep most of the diff oil in.
I just drained mine out and then did a couple of fills/drains with cheapo stuff after serviced axle before putting nice diff oil in.

Dave.

 

[fbnss]

Ah thanks for that! It's the abs ring giving me different numbers.

 

[Chris]

Well it all depends. If your inner oils seals have gone and the two precious fluids have mixed then you will be draining the diff anyway. If they haven't then yes you can just jack one end up high enough and all the oil runs to the pan.

A 93 should be the longer CVs and deeper flange. There really aren't lots of variants here. There is long and there is short. That's the end to it. OK if you have ABS then there is a ring and if you don't, errmm there isn't. But, as the ABS ring is only tapped on and doesn't cause a problem anyway if you don't have ABS then it's all quite simple. I haven't seen non ABS CVs available actually. Not for the longer version. So, like I say, long or short, that's all there is to it.