me thinks me might need a service manual...

[Sam]

100,000 mile service due.

Toyota want £350 for the service or they are happy to sell me the service kit for £110 (or an almost oem set from roughtrax at £78).

Now my jack is broke... but it looks like I can buy a new jack and stands, do this myself and still be more than quids in.

soooo.... erm.... anyone got a pdf service manual for a 120 I can "borrow"?

(some of you might know this is risky move given my track record - but I managed a full brake service on the hayabusa at the weekend and now I'm ready to take on the wooooorld )

 

[goodoldboy]

100,000k service due.

Toyota want £350 for the service or they are happy to sell me the service kit for £110 (or an almost oem set from roughtrax at £78).

Now my jack is broke... but it looks like I can buy a new jack and stands, do this myself and still be more than quids in.

soooo.... erm.... anyone got a pdf service manual for a 120 I can "borrow"?

(some of you might know this is risky move given my track record - but I managed a full brake service on the hayabusa at the weekend and now I'm ready to take on the wooooorld )

you dont really need a jack to drop the oil Sam & the rest is just changing filters & greasing the propshafts etc.no real mystery although im sure some 120 owners will be along shortly to tell you what ive missed

 

[Sam]

jack was to get the wheels off and do a brake / piston check and clean and general eyeball of stuff underneath. might as well use the money I save to get it now anyway - I'll need brakes at some point too.

oil is the easy bit I know... it's the fuel filter I've not done before. I'm sure it's just as easy but I don't know what I don't know so I have to be cautious. You'll likely tell me it's nothing.... but it could just as easily be 10 folks shouting noooooo in unison as they bite their knuckles and I blow up half the village

 

[silvercruiser]

Fuel filter is a piece of cake. just unscrew watching out for the sensor wiring underneath. nice to have a bit of rag stuffed into the wing underneath to catch a little bit of diesel that will try to run down the wing. then use some water pump Grips to undo the plastic caps etc and swap over to the new filter using the new o Rings, put it all back on and re prime.

 

[Rob Cowell]

100K service should also include coolant - the coolant drain plug on the block is easily rounded

>> Just coming back and editing, I was thinking 100K miles, but you have written 100,00K. If that's Km, then coolant doesn't need doing yet.

Plus diff oil. No tricks there, just make sure you can undo the filler plugs before you drain the old oil out. The front filler is a pain to get at, you definitely want some sort of oil pump. The one in the back you can pour straight in from 1 litre bottles.

Transfer box oil is just a visual inspection I think. I change mine when the output shaft seals leak, which at 100K won't be long

 

[Sam]

Well, there was 3 things i could have hoped for with this question.

One was a workshop (not owners) pdf manual or direction to a book.

Secondly some comforting good advice and direction about the bits I knew I would have to tackle (cheers silvercruiser)...

... and lastly some hints towards the bits that are obvious when you think about them but not costed for by Toyota as standard or thought about by me because I haven't really thought it through properly.

Tick tick tick... cheers fellas

(off to read about greasing props, diff oil changing and pumpy things of some kind)

Fixed the 100,000k ... meant miles.

 

[GeekOKent]

Dont forget to check all the various levels, and the air filter.

 

[Sam]

Just spoken to Toyota Romford (slow head shake).

Yesterday I called for the 100,000 mile service price. £350
Today I called for the 100,000 mile service price. £395

Now, my MOT doesn't run out til mid July so by my reckoning the service will cost around £1500 (assuming an even increase in price of £45 per day). Sounds steep

Anyway, complete service list is:

Oil change & filter
Air Filter & Pollen Filter
Sump Plug Washer
Transmission Oil
Brake Fluids
Lob in some grease
Top up fluids
Key fob battery
Visual Checks

... it does not include fuel filters, diff oils or coolant etc.

So, off to:

1. Price that lot up
2. See when fuel filters, diff oils etc are due
3. Decide how much a trained pair of eyeballs is worth vs doin it myself
4. Consider what kind of discount I can blag (usually ~ 10-20%)
5. Decide how much my time is worth (including time and costs involved in a&e because I slipped on spilt oil and swallowed a spanner)

As is so often the case, my post has helped me realise I should have thought things through a little more before I posted

 

[Shayne]

Every time i change my fuel filter i feel i'm doing it wrong or there must be an easier way but no its just a straight forward nuisance .
As for fluids it goes in one end and comes out the other so the only mistake you can make is to spill some (always remove the filler plug first because once its empty the car is disabled and not being able to fill it up again can cause headaches)
I get my fob battery changed at Timpsons counter at Morrisons supermarket for about a fiver and one day i will remember to write down what battery it is so i can order online and swap it at home .

Just pull the hose off the bottom of the radiator to drain coolant , put hose back on and top up your rad , not sure if the 120 is the same as a 90 in this respect but the heater uses same coolant and the heating system might not fill up until it is used so top up the rad start the engine , use the heater and check the rad again because you might need another few litres in there .

Don't over grease the shafts 2 or 3 pumps of the gun is enough .

 

[stumog]

If you service it yourself remember to fill it up with fuel before you fit it other wise cab be a git.

Always moisten the seals on the filters with what ever they are filtering

 

[Rob Cowell]

Transmission oil? So yours is a manual?

Prop shaft grease, yes 2-3 pumps. But the UJs I think can take more than this. I pump mine until fresh grease is forced out of the joints, usually preceded by a bit of water.

Brake fluid is a good call. My 120 seems more sensitive to old fluid than other other car I've had. I flush mine through every couple of years.

Diff oils are supposed to be done every 20K miles. UK dealers seem adverse to doing them on service schedules, I have no idea why. It's less than 4 litres of oil between them. Probably more relevant if you're wading. My 90 front diff went bang, I think because I never changed the oil in 180K miles, so I'm sensitive to it.

 

[Sam]

Thanks for the tips fellas.

No Rob... auto..... erm... ?

 

[Jack VZJ90]

100,000 mile service due.

Toyota want £350 for the service or they are happy to sell me the service kit for £110 (or an almost oem set from roughtrax at £78).

Now my jack is broke... but it looks like I can buy a new jack and stands, do this myself and still be more than quids in.

soooo.... erm.... anyone got a pdf service manual for a 120 I can "borrow"?

(some of you might know this is risky move given my track record - but I managed a full brake service on the hayabusa at the weekend and now I'm ready to take on the wooooorld )

Hi Sam,

Most important item : service manual from Haynes, buy one !!
It has all the specs, torques, time intervals, lubricants, faulty codes etc. with foto's and tip and tricks .....
With this book, everything is a piece of cake!!!
Succes,
Jack

 

[Rob Cowell]

Thanks for the tips fellas.

No Rob... auto..... erm... ?

Well if they're genuinely going to change the transmission fluid and the other stuff for £395 I'd let them. But I'd probably run away from them. Auto fluid is supposed to be sealed for life. Of course it isn't but dealers never change it. It's certainly not listed to be changed at 100K.

 

[ratrace]

is this what you are after got it at a boot sale at dunton for £5

 

[Jack VZJ90]

is this what you are after got it at a boot sale at dunton for £5

View attachment 127504

That's the one Sam needs !
I've got the same......

 

[clivehorridge]

A mate of mine with an old 3 series BMW was told by the dealer not to change his ATF, "you'll do the box damage" was his advice.

I can't effin' believe it....

 

[Sam]

Just to finish this off.... Toyota eventually confirmed it should be diff oils and not gearbox oils as advised. I've so often found it pays to make sure you speak to more than one person when calling them.

In the end I gave up and got them to do it.. still hadn't found the time myself and was fast approaching the 10k - just wanted the oil out.

So, oil filters & oil, fuel filter, air filter & pollen filter, brake fluid, diff oils, grease, checks & key battery £350

They missed off the fuel filter but have offered to do it for free if I take it back.

Also had the steering jumping around like a box of frogs on braking over 60... didn't feel like warped discs (because of the knocks on the bumps) but they say steering and joints all check out. But they did say both discs were warped and calipers seized (4mm left on pads). I'm not convinced - sounds like a guess to me and the car had done 0.3 miles while with them so no road test.

Soooo with a quote for another £350 for new discs and pads + £460 for calipers if needed.... I have ordered my own (just discs and pads). Bought some axle stands and booked myself in for the weekend to get them changed. Not just because of the £350 but I know that with a little brake cleaner and work I can make sure the calipers pistons are free moving.... whereas they are already talking about another £460 on top for calipers. Nope!

All good so far then. Service is more than I wanted to spend and I'm not 100% sure they have done all they said (no real reason - just feeling a little suspicious) but I'll check everything tomorrow once it's up on the stands.

And yes.... I'm really gonna be kicking myself for paying them to do the service once I've jacked it up and got stuck in. But you know.... such is life

Anyone know the torque settings for the caliper mounting bolts? Looking at you RatRace and Jack with your fancy manuals that I can't find anywhere

 

[Rob Cowell]

Just to finish this off.... Toyota eventually confirmed it should be diff oils and not gearbox oils as advised. I've so often found it pays to make sure you speak to more than one person when calling them.

In the end I gave up and got them to do it.. still hadn't found the time myself and was fast approaching the 10k - just wanted the oil out.

So, oil filters & oil, fuel filter, air filter & pollen filter, brake fluid, diff oils, grease, checks & key battery £350

They missed off the fuel filter but have offered to do it for free if I take it back.

Also had the steering jumping around like a box of frogs on braking over 60... didn't feel like warped discs (because of the knocks on the bumps) but they say steering and joints all check out. But they did say both discs were warped and calipers seized (4mm left on pads). I'm not convinced - sounds like a guess to me and the car had done 0.3 miles while with them so no road test.

Soooo with a quote for another £350 for new discs and pads + £460 for calipers if needed.... I have ordered my own (just discs and pads). Bought some axle stands and booked myself in for the weekend to get them changed. Not just because of the £350 but I know that with a little brake cleaner and work I can make sure the calipers pistons are free moving.... whereas they are already talking about another £460 on top for calipers. Nope!

All good so far then. Service is more than I wanted to spend and I'm not 100% sure they have done all they said (no real reason - just feeling a little suspicious) but I'll check everything tomorrow once it's up on the stands.

And yes.... I'm really gonna be kicking myself for paying them to do the service once I've jacked it up and got stuck in. But you know.... such is life

Anyone know the torque settings for the caliper mounting bolts? Looking at you RatRace and Jack with your fancy manuals that I can't find anywhere

Front caliper mounts are 123Nm. Rears are 105NM for mount bolts and 88Nm for the sliding pins.

Front calipers are known to seize. I *think* the design changed slightly in later years to lessen contamination around the pistons, but the newer calipers are interchangeable.

Mine had been replaced when I bought it at 5 years old and 70K miles.

 

[Sam]

Yeah I have a feeling one of mine was replaced just before I bought it (about 25k miles then I think - long time ag now). I'm hoping a good clean up will at least buy me a year!

Spent a couple of hours really cleaning out the ones on the hayabusa a few weeks ago and that worked a treat.

Thanks for the torque setting - really helped. Struggling with Google today. Spent far too many hours and still not found that (have now thank you!) or a good idea where to jack up and put the axle stands!