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The MOT history isnt the best, and it has no current MOT. From your pics it looks loke it has a fair bit of off-road rash.

Yeah, its failed nearly every MOT, often for silly things.

And dont ever use that 4x4 ‘specialist’.

Yeah, its the glow plugs/heater pulling down the voltage until they switch off after a minute or so.

They obviously couldnt find a pair of handed batteries.

Usually a charging problem. Check belts, alternator output, and the plug on the back of the alternator.

Its had more hits than Elvis!

Theres a small fan in the a/c control that pullls cabin air to measure temperature.

900g wont be far off

I bought mine from Conrad Anderson many years ago, and still working.

Thats your a/c condensor thats leaking. If you just had it recharged cos it was empty, you’ve now found your leak! You need a new one.

You need to see where its leaking from first.

I noticed my throttle seemed a bit heavy at times, so decided to investigate. Sure enough that gearbox cable is stiff to pull out, and doesnt go back in as it should. There was a loose loop where it wasnt going back in. I spent the day filling it with light oil, and its better, but still doesnt...

It reduces friction and metal to metal contact. Just like oil then!

Crusty as, underneath as well as the engine bay.

Everything works as it should - except the a/c I guess.

I would use Dinitrol ML for the cavities and the chassis, floor etc. Then overcoat the chassis floor etc with Dinitrol wax or their black wax underseal.

We’ve got it in sweden, maybe 20% of garages sell it. Tried some in my berlingo and it worked ok. But as the price is the same no-one is exactly going to search it out or rush to use it.

How much did you pay, and for what?

I’m trying to order one right now. My local dealer claims not to know much about them, even though they’re quite clearly on the website with prices and colours. They’re quite expensive for what they are, and useless as a van. Buying it for the long term as its low tech and fairly simple compared...

It last had a swedish MOT in 2015 with 260,383km, so dont know whats happened since then. Last owner change in 2013. Advertised here (sweden) in november 2020 with 275000 kms for 120,000 swedish kronor, or about £10,000.

It was just a thick rubber underseal product used to cover the rust where it wasnt so bad it needed a new frame. By the time the rust was visible again, and the frame had continued rusting away underneath the coating, they were out of the extended warranty period.

They’re only planning on banning new sales of cars wholly powered by diesel or petrol. Almost everything is currently offered as a hybrid version already.

One of the sills is rotten

What does the MOT history say?

Air con needs a regass? It also needs an ac belt!

Ssangyong are doing worse than Mitsibishi in europe!

How about a nut splitter in the split, then it is supported from the other side

The later Yaris auto with the cvt is ok, it was the early autos that had the automated manual that was junk. Little Kias and Hyundais had proper auto boxes.

The red relay sends power to the dimmer relay, so its that one thats,busted. New ones come from Toyota.

There’s no boats to sweden or denmark any longer. You have to take a ferry to holland or france, and take a ferry to gothenburg, or drive.

If the has broken, likely it has damaged the shaft or pully.

Clutch gap is the gap between the clutch plate on the front of the copressor. Youve seen it pull in, then youll see the gap before the bit that pulls in, pulls in.

Check your clutch gap

If the propshaft hasnt been off for a long time, then how do you know the uj’s are good? You cant tell by just giving them a yank whilst mounted.

Are you sure its not the rear brake shoes? Sometimes the material rusts/falls of the shoes and either locks the wheel, or rattles about catching every so often.

Sounds like the diesel is draining back. Havve you tried pumping the primer after its been stood a few days?

What are you doing? Dry fill, replacement of parts, new system?

Its hard to trust traders that openly write on their adverts their weak warranty conditions, when they know full well there are pretty strong consumer laws covering car sales.

I just googled landcruiserparts.co.uk as it says account suspended

Some old style immobilisers would let the engine run a few seconds. It was probably an aftermarket fit back in the day. And the fact you can get a code for it kinda points in that direction.

Its a rotten as a pear. You need one from outside the rust belt.

Where is it located, that will tell you if its rusty or not.

I did this job about 10 years ago because I got a whiff of anitfreeze every so often, and the level dropped very slowly. Basically everything in front of you, when sat in the front seats, has to come out, although the steering column just needs dropping down. Its not a pleasant job, but not...

If there’s no oil flow its because the pumps isnt working. You wont be suffering an air lock as its a positive displacement pump.

The ad says air suspension in full working order

Make the most of it, because the new gas will disappear out of the same hole the original gas escaped through.

Easiest just to see if theres gas in the system. Push the valve and see if theres real pressure, not just a fart.

I dont know, and both he and the car are gone now! But I think when I bought mine the only option available was cruise control, which for some reason I didnt take.