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Coolant leak into passenger footwell.

K seal works well for rads. I used it in a emergency years ago. I wish I hadn't as I'm still flushing out gunk to this day.
It did work though...
 
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K seal will work. It is extremely effective. Don't worry about it being left in the coolant system. Its only copper filings. Think of it like the platelets in your blood, circulating round ready to seal any small leak that occurs.
 
K seal will work. It is extremely effective. Don't worry about it being left in the coolant system. Its only copper filings. Think of it like the platelets in your blood, circulating round ready to seal any small leak that occurs.
i feel better about the "gunk" now rich..:)
 
I did this job about 10 years ago because I got a whiff of anitfreeze every so often, and the level dropped very slowly.

Basically everything in front of you, when sat in the front seats, has to come out, although the steering column just needs dropping down. Its not a pleasant job, but not difficult. Takes a long time with plenty of hidden screws and crappy plastic clips.

I couldn’t see anything wrong with the old one, and still get the smell every now and then. Although there is a crappy pipe join in there that never filled me with confidence. The problem is the pipes and joint get pretty messed up on the way in and out, so one can never be too sure about things.

I seem to remember the matrix was about 250 at the time.
 
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I think Dervis had the same issue at some stage Andy. I know he had the whole lot out when he soundproofed his 80, he might be able to advise...

Yes Clive had this issue a few years back. Left hand side leak on the passenger side was a coolant leak. Bottom line heater matrix leak and slippage downwards under the carpet usually undetected for some time.

Not a easy job because of the necessity of taking the dash out is the only option. But more involved that just that with:-

1. Air con gas needs to taken out safely to reuse later.
2. Air con pipes in the engine bay needs undoing because Air con unit is in the way to get to the heater matrix unit.
3. Dash out completely includes center console / gearstick & front seats
4. Heater valve control above the centre of the bulk head above the engine center needs undoing.

Also Trax Parts has a matrix unit for around £100 if I remember correctly but I choose to get mine made in Cyprus.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...olent-in-footwell-horror.148332/#post-1453719
 
Is it defo necessary to disconnect the air con gas pipes? Is it not possible to undo the air con box from the heater box and move the heater box sideways and out?
 
Anybody else had any luck with rad weld to cure matrix problem?

Tried the K Seal route yesterday and today, I thought it had worked but another run this morning proved otherwise. TBF I will put the Cruiser in the garage and remove at my leisure. I will go down the re cored route as it saves taking 2 out and the cost will be far less than a replacement.
 
Tried the K Seal route yesterday and today, I thought it had worked but another run this morning proved otherwise. TBF I will put the Cruiser in the garage and remove at my leisure. I will go down the re cored route as it saves taking 2 out and the cost will be far less than a replacement.

Take your time, lots of photos on the way, label stuff you might forget, and such like. Keep fixing screws bundled and location marked for replacement... you’ll get there.
 
Is it defo necessary to disconnect the air con gas pipes? Is it not possible to undo the air con box from the heater box and move the heater box sideways and out?

From memory the Air con unit is screwed in after the heater matrix unit that prevents bypassing this process. I know frustrating as it is there was no choice. Thats the thing frank its a much larger job than just taking the dash out as I found out :-/
 
Take your time, lots of photos on the way, label stuff you might forget, and such like. Keep fixing screws bundled and location marked for replacement... you’ll get there.
Wise words indeed.
 
That's what I did with the audi Clive. Ended up with 1 self tapper spare.

I've never found anything that works. " Bars leak" was supposed to be the best but did not work very well.

Driving with the rad cap off would get you home.
 
Well, I thought I'd have a go at this, after all its only nuts bolts screws and clips.

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In all taking it steady and thorough its taken me 4 hours to get this far ( inc the seat removal and centre console) and this is only phase 1.
Going to get the local air con man to drain the system and then work out how to remove the air con system to allow the heater to be accessed.
 
Christ Andy, Thats some Task mate!... Hats off to 'ya'..I was having a Spat of Tourette's Putting a double din CD player in the 80 the other day. There's a build thread right there mate...
 
Christ Andy, Thats some Task mate!... Hats off to 'ya'..I was having a Spat of Tourette's Putting a double din CD player in the 80 the other day. There's a build thread right there mate...

Another session coming up soon. Should get the matrix out next go but I'll have to allow 4 hours at it.
 
Another session coming up soon. Should get the matrix out next go but I'll have to allow 4 hours at it.
Having fun Andy? :)
The aircon Evaporator is screwed to the bulkhead. Remove the screws then disconnect the wiring. Remove the two aircon pipes that go into the Evaporator in the engine bay. It's now ready to remove.
I sometimes find it easier to push the unit from the engine bay side until the foam seals are broken.

You found that screw under the vent on the passenger side then? :icon-wink:
 
Well done Andy.. dash out jobs are a completely different job, I have done a few! It's all the little clips and connectors etc.. but there's nothing worse than driving a motor that the heater has been bypassed in the winter.

Well done again!:thumbup:
 
Well done Andy. I would pressure test the reconed one. Something like 4 psi would be safe. I had a 30 gallon aluminium petrol tank made once and thought I had better test it. Found 3 leaks!
 
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