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That's a nice clean looking wagon. :thumbup: You don't have the problem in the UK of the sun cooking the paint and vinyl but, then again, we don't have salt on the roads in winter in Oz - I think I'd rather have the sun. That's an interesting place for the exhaust to exit.

Thanks for the replies. I bought it for AU$20k 16 years ago so the depreciation has only been AU$375 per year. It doesn't come much cheaper than that. We will live very comfortably on our pensions so if I want to do a trip I'll just hire a Cruiser for a few weeks.

I've just sold my 1991 HDJ80R, it went this evening. I was the second owner and have had it for 16 years so it was quite sad to see it go. We had three vehicles for the two of us (a BMW520d, a Ford Falcon ute with a tipper body and the 80) and we are currently selling our house and downsizing to...

Well, if a new one is 1300 and a rebuilt one is 1200 then it's a no brainer as our American friends would say.

Sounds expensive to me - that's over AU$1900 but you did say it is new and I don't know how much a new one is in Oz. However I had mine re-done with a reconditioned (genuine and rebuilt) unit in 2007 and I just looked up the receipt. It cost me $660 for the unit which is 445 Euro or 380 Pounds...

Remember years ago when paper filters were just coming in they did not have non-return valves. So, every time you switched off the oil would drain back into the sump and have to be pumped up again on switch on. It think it was Volvo that first put non-return valves in their filters, though I...

That's better: 654 -456 =198 +891 =1089 Good one Clive

I don't think that can work Clive. If you take any 3 digit number and make subtractions from it you can't finish up with a 4 digit number (i.e. a bigger number). e.g. 654 -456 =198 -891 = -693

Yep, underground. You got it.

u n d _ _ _ _ _ u n d What letters are missing to form a word (in English)?

We talk about mechanical woes in the earlier times.... If you haven't already read it I thoroughly recommend the book "Mailman of the Birdsville Track - The Story of Tom Kruse". Tom did the outback mail run from 1936 in a Leyland Badger. Some of the bush repairs were amazing, like using the top...

Absolutely Clive (and Karl), there is no doubt that this can be the consequence. I know it is semantics but it is not the worn bearing that causes that, it is the broken cap or bolt or whatever. So, I agree wholeheartedly that a worn BEB can lead to other catastrophic failures but the wear on...

My first car was a 1948 Hillman (the one with the suicide front doors). One day on the way to work in 1963 there was an almighty crash and bang so I stopped it on the side of the road and hitched to work. When I got it home that night and removed the head, three pistons were up but one went down...

Actually there is virtually no chance of a bearing failure causing a rod to go through the crankcase - now a bolt failure is a different matter. If the bearing wears past the sacrificial material, and the noise is still ignored, then the harder bearing surface starts to wear the crank journal...

I agree Clive but I was simply putting some perspective on the question of "Were the 1HZ affected?"

I've just done a little research and it appears that only the 1HD-T had a problem probably to do with the extra strain induced by the turbo. There are some interesting theories out there though. This one from the IH8MUD forum... "The 1hd-t had harmonic issues which resulted in oil cavitation at...

To my knowledge they were not, only the 1HD-T however I will stand corrected if anyone has better knowledge about that.

Maybe it had to do with the fact that, at that time, and still today I think, Toyota sold more Landcruisers in Australia than anywhere else. They didn't want to kill the golden goose.

The 1HD-T was the subject of a Toyota recall in Australia back in the day and they replaced the bearings under warranty. Mine was done before I bought the car 16 years ago (I'm the second owner) and they've been fine ever since.

Here's the link to the Engine manual (RM172E) for the early 80 series. http://www.greymatters.com.au/LC80_manuals/Engine/Index.htm The same comments apply here as to the one above.

Here's a link to the Chassis manual (RM184E) for the early 80 series. Because it is a large file, I have broken it into chapters which will download individually (but I have also given a link to the full document if you're prepared to wait). Note that these are .pdf files so they won't just...

This is a genuine Toyota oil filter for my 80 in Australia. I know it is genuine because it came from Toyota and I just took the photos but I don't know how you are going to distinguish genuine from copy in your environment. There's no hologram but this box is about 10 years old so the new ones...

Are you referring to the bolt on the diagram going into the calliper at a torque of 90 ft-lb (123 N-m)?

Do you mean that you pressed the button for the centre diff lock or that you shifted the transfer gear into low range? Or have you got after market lockers? Either way, Dave2000 has the right idea to start with.

I use wreckers where possible. Genuine parts at half the price.

I've got the manuals for the early 80. I'll upload them to my site and post the links. In the meantime here is the torque settings for the brakes...

Berrima Diesel in Oz is probably the premier diesel servicing and rebuilding place in Australia for 4WD. They do offer and fit a turbo for the 1HZ (see http://www.berrimadiesel.com/home/). They are absolutely first class and honest and would not give you any advice that was just based on making...

If you are worried about the cost of a new one you can always pick up a 2nd hand genuine one from a wreckers and refurb it with a seal kit. With a dollop of common sense the kit is pretty easy to put in.

I agree with Julian T in that I think the suggestion to start on petrol each day has to do with the fact that it is easier on the engine to use the higher energy fuel for starting and then drop back to gas. There should be no problem with running gas for the rest of the time seeing that it has...

I agree about the complexity. I've known a few people with the earlier Range Rover Vogues that had the full air suspension who have ditched it and replaced it with the spring set-up from the cheaper model. One of them drove home from a trip with the truck just sitting on the stops. It was a...

It is a useful truck. I'm not a tradie but it's great for loads of garden soil etc. I love the look on peoples faces when I pull up at the tip beside someone who's been dragging their rubbish out of a trailer for half an hour and I just back up and press the button!

I think helper bags are the best. The springs still operate normally under light or medium load but the bags take much of the weight when you're heavy. I don't have them on the 80 but I do have them on my ute. I have a Ford Falcon 1 tonne ute with a twin hydraulic ram tipper to which I have...

Regarding the wheel size... I have a 1991 HDJ80 with 15" wheels which I am going to change to 16" and upgrade the brakes. One reason for this is to fit 185/75R16 tyres which, together with the 16" rims, will give me an additional 0.925" (23.5mm) clearance. WRT the brakes you can get by with just...

I had that happen to me once too, it was certainly worrying. Mine was simply that the plug had come loose (it must not have been reconnected quite properly at some stage). A good push and wriggle until it clicked properly into place and the problem was gone.

Hi there everyone. I am a 70 year old retired gent from Melbourne. I have owned my 1991 HDJ80 for about 16 years (second owner) but until now I haven't had a lot of time to put many miles on it. It currently has about 214,000 km (about 133,000 miles) on the clock so it is hardly run in. It is a...

Various pictures my toys

My offroad trips

My build thread