Search results

If you search the previous threads, you'll find some details. Search for "rear heater pipes leaking. Replacement ideas". Quite an easy job. Good luck.

Hi, those are the pipes to the rear heater matrix and a very common problem area on Colorados. They don't affect the operation of the front heater though, so that should still work. You have three options - buy new steel pipes from Toyota (or Amayama etc), leave the rear heater disconnected as...

Hi - it's not a big or difficult job. Clearly, you have to remove the aluminium and plastic intake pipes and a few cables and brackets to lift off the cam cover easily, but nothing tricky. I replaced mine using a Roughtrax gasket and did not use any sealant around the gasket, but I do have...

Hello Stephen, there is also an ID plate on the bulkhead, near the front wiper motor, which has lots of info on it. You should see KZJ or KDJ there.

Hi Shayne - thanks for the above link. I have to do suspension bushes front and rear soon, so some useful tips there. I will also paint the arms, knuckles etc. Are you satisfied with the Zinga and Omnicote? How has it held up over the last 5 years? Thanks

Hello Andrew - I don’t believe there is any link between replacing inner tie rods and the need to replace the camber bolts. New tie rod ends only affect the toe-in/ toe-out dimension, which is adjusted using the outer tie rods. If you really do need to replace the camber bolts for some other...

Thanks for the NOCO information. I had spotted them in Halfords as well (not as good a deal as Amazon, though) and have been researching them. My two batteries are 70Ah each, so 140 in total. Am I right to think the Genius5 is too small because it’s rating is only 120Ah. Or does that just affect...

Well, I borrowed a CTEK charger/conditioner from a friend and left it on for ~20 hours. Truck started straight away yesterday evening and I took it for decent drive. I didn’t connect the charger again. It started no problem this morning as well, so I am thinking the batteries are fine -...

Thanks for your quick replies. I will check when I get home.

After a couple of weeks of inactivity, my truck didn’t start this morning. The engine turned over slowly, dash lights dimmed etc. , so batteries likely to have discharged. I had to leave for work so haven’t checked voltage with multimeter yet. It has a standard twin battery set up (KZJ95) and...

Hello - welcome. Unfortunately the difflock actuators are a weak spot on these. Some have successfully repaired them (there are several threads and YouTube videos dealing with this) but the aluminium housings often fall apart when trying to remove them from the axle. Has yours worked previously...

I believe the A02B rear diff code means 4.3, so the front diff should be that ratio too (mine has an R57 sticker). I must admit, this info is gleaned from other posts here and also other forums, rather than direct knowledge e.g. counting gear teeth.

Hi - the ratio will either be 4.1 or 4.3. There is a sticker on the front diff tube (if it survived this far) which will be R16,R17,R56,R57 or similar. If you use the search function on this forum using keywords “diff ratio”, you’ll find quite a few threads on this subject, but I have yet to see...

Hello Jules - I have a 90 series but I think the layout is similar. I am not aware of any coupling that allows access from any angle. It’s a matter of either moving the vehicle until the nipples are accessible or, if it’s jacked up, just rotating the shaft manually. Don’t overgrease the sliding...

Take a look at the supplier Roughtrax. Many people use them here with excellent experience.

Dave’s answer is correct regardless of whether your headlamps have levelling motors. The beam pattern is different between LHD and RHD models and you can’t change that with the adjustment screws.

You can park it with centre locked, in low range, neutral obviously, step outside and listen when you try the rear difflock switch. You’ll hear a short whirring sound from the actuator for a second or so, if it’s trying to engage. If you don’t hear it, you may be lucky and have an electrical...

I would add to check the rear heater pipes/hoses, 4wd functions (centre diff lock and rear diff lock), heater function and cam belt. I had thought about cruise control too but I read it’s much harder to do on the 1KZ engine because it’s mechanical throttle. I think you only need to add a switch...

I’d suggest checking the runout of the rotors using a dial indicator if you have access to one. Runout can be caused by warping of the rotors (which is definitely possible) or DTV - disc thickness variation. It can also occur if the hub or rotor mounting surfaces had any debris on them during...

Hi - welcome to the forum. The ratio was either 4.300 or 4.100 depending on transmission and market. The VIN plate will tell you what axle you have (for example, mine is A02B). If you search on the forum, you’ll find a list showing ratio for each code. If I remember well, there were 4 axle...

Although the manuals say slightly different specs for the transfer box and the axles, Toyota now say 75w90 GL4/5 for both - according to Roughtrax website.

I advise you to check carefully what is wrong before you buy and to check your mechanic’s advice. You said the vehicle pulls violently to the left under hard braking. That doesn’t tally with the front left brake not working. If it pulls to the left, then the left side is getting more braking...

Hello - are you certain there are axles available with a 4.10 and a 4.11 ratio? That’s very close. In single reduction axles like these, the ratio is only ‘crown wheel tooth number’ divided by ‘pinion tooth number’. Even a difference of one tooth will change the ratio by more than 0.01. Do you...

Hello Gary - I have the same engine as you at about the same mileage. I am using the Toyota oil that Roughtrax sell - 5w30 semi synthetic. But choice of engine oil will always cause a debate - semi vs full synthetic, which viscosity etc. The most important thing is to change it regularly along...

Agreed - fuel could be the issue. One common issue for Prado/90 series is the steel fuel pipe on top of the fuel tank gets a little rust hole and allows air into the fuel line overnight. This is true for diesels anyway.

Check for corrosion of the rear heater pipes. The original steel pipes often rust through. You could renew them or replace with rubber hoses. Alternatively, remove the pipes altogether and cap off the T-fittings if you don’t need a rear heater. There are a few threads on that subject already...

Hi - welcome to the forum. 700 rpm is the correct idle speed. My UK model has an 'idle up' switch which increases the idle speed by ~300rpm. If you have that too, could that switch be faulty and somehow operating? You could try disconnecting it.

It’s the same behaviour on mine but I believe it’s deliberate programming for most autoboxes - (not just Toyota) - they keep the engine revs a bit higher until the transmission oil has warmed up.

Might just be easier to remove the brake pedal assembly. I had to do that to sort out excessive play in the pivot bushes. The switch is then very accessible.

RubenA - how long have you had the vehicle? If the light has always been like that in your ownership, it could just be the wrong type of switch in the handbrake lever, swapped out by a previous owner maybe. Check that you get continuity between the switch contacts when the lever is up and no...

Hi - I bought 5metres of 8mm bore EPDM heater hose on eBay. The clips are '316 stainless rubber lined hose clamp P-clip' - again from eBay. I can't recall the size though - 25/28mm?. You'll have to reshape the clips to fit the two heater hoses side-by-side. The clips were bolted to the existing...

Hello Jureb - those rear heater pipes are a common problem on 95 series. I chose to keep the rear heater and replaced the pipes with rubber heater hose. If you search ‘heater pipes’, ‘coolant loss’ etc in the search function, you’ll find other threads on this subject with more pictures.

Hello - you mentioned pressing a switch but I thought you had a 90 series? Centre diff is engaged with a lever on my 95. I thought all 90/95 had a 2nd lever next to the gear lever for selecting centre diff and low ratio.

Hello Raj - I have bought ~700 items on eBay without any significant issues. I have seen that £16.50 cashback message several times, independent of the seller - it’s always been £16.50 though, which is odd. I’ve never clicked it, assuming it to be scam. Occasionally, the seller will offer you a...

Where are they coming loose? Front or rear axle? Where they join the wishbone/chassis or where they join the roll-bar?

I believe many components of the 90/95 series are the same as the 3rd generation 4Runner.

Hi - when I replaced the contacts in my starter (KZJ95R Auto), I removed it from the vehicle by lowering it downward but also had to remove the front left wheel and the thin wheel arch flap. I didn’t use ramps - just hydraulic jack to lift and one axle stand, I think. It was a combination of...

A slightly odd coincidence occurred over the last couple of days - a front indicator bulb blew in both my cars. It took maybe a whole minute and one screw to change it in my Landcruiser. The Lexus IS250 needs the front bumper off and headlamp removed and about 40 bolts, clips etc

Sounds like starter motor solenoid. A common problem, apparently, and easily repaired using a repair kit from Roughtrax - £60. I agree your batteries may also need changing but I would think there should be enough current to try and turn the engine, even if slowly. The click happens as the...

Hi Stuzbot - the engine will only start with the transmission in Park or Neutral. There is an interlock that prevents it starting in any other position. JML - For the transmission fluid level, I found it tricky to get a reading on the dipstick but it is possible with a bit of perseverance, and...

Hello Steve - heavy pulling will be far more likely related to something at the front rather than the back. You’ve changed all the braking components at the front so I would agree with Chris and Shayne to check suspension bushes and steering components. Check tyre pressures too. A bad wheel...

Hi - when I replaced the contacts in my starter, I removed it by lowering it downward but also had to remove the front left wheel and the thin wheel arch flap. So, it was a combination of working from the left side and from underneath. I remember it being a bit of a fiddle with a combination of...