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1992 brake upgrade

Thread drift starting here.. .:)
TBH my chainsaws are all boringly standard Huskys and Sthils .....worrying when you now have to connect your saw to a laptop ....
Is tuning chainsaws a real thing ? apart from the blokes who do chainsaw log cutting races ......
 
drift away my friend .....my saws are also stock , no mods but kept in good running order. I use Sthil synthetic 2T oil & Sthil chain oil which helps keep the air filter clean .I know this sounds bizarre but cheap chain oil doesn't stay on the bar & ends up on your clothes and in the air filter.The comp chainsaws are either stock but optimised - carb tuned on site with a tacho or hot saw , starting with a CR 250 engine , ported , expansion pipe , full on . some of the bigger ones are running up to 50 BHP ! After 25 + years in the trade i use the smallest saw i can with the shortest bar .Decent chain oil & proper sharpening , along with experience will give you more real world gains than porting a stock saw. More power needs more fuel & air & it's better to just buy a bigger saw if that's what you're after.
 
drift away my friend .....my saws are also stock , no mods but kept in good running order. I use Sthil synthetic 2T oil & Sthil chain oil which helps keep the air filter clean .I know this sounds bizarre but cheap chain oil doesn't stay on the bar & ends up on your clothes and in the air filter.The comp chainsaws are either stock but optimised - carb tuned on site with a tacho or hot saw , starting with a CR 250 engine , ported , expansion pipe , full on . some of the bigger ones are running up to 50 BHP ! After 25 + years in the trade i use the smallest saw i can with the shortest bar .Decent chain oil & proper sharpening , along with experience will give you more real world gains than porting a stock saw. More power needs more fuel & air & it's better to just buy a bigger saw if that's what you're after.
This is all you need
 

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Also to change the backing plates on the front, there's no change to the rear brakes as they're the same on 12v and 24valve,

Hopefully you can buy new later bigger backing plates, as I also need some to renew some very rusty ones!


I recently replaced my rear brake shoes/pads. My supplier sent the wrong shoes, further investigation shows there was some 80's with a smaller disc/drum setup at the rear. I wonder if it was during the transition from the rear drum brake model through to the larger disc/drum we see on the 93 onward?

regards

Dave
 
That's interesting Dave.. I read some where sometime that on an 80 you could fit 15" rims on the rear?? but not the front with the bigger discs. The early 80 had the 15" alloys like the lj's of the time.

The uk 70's didn't have rear discs but the import lj's and kzj's had rear disks but with narrow 16" rims. I have both 24v on a project and early 12v original on my 81.. also a disc rear 70..

I'll do a survey and let you know whats what with them..... interested myself now to find out!! :think::thumbup:
 
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Yes saw this awhile back, but found that a decent set of discs and pads on mine did the trick, I am using grooved discs with dimples (never use cross drilled discs when going off road). were the way to go. Having said that and with the 80 on the absolute weight limit, I did find they did smell a little hot when descending a long hill despite the manual gearbox. On the other hand I think if you have an automatic, then a brake upgrade would be a good thing if you run near the weight limit and may be worth the expense. I think would consider it if I has some spare capital lying around, but presently without a driving licence my 80 has not seen any action at all for ten months!

Regards

Dave
 
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