Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

1hd-ft engine rebuild

Just a thought mate as its easily done,

Few people have said about small trace of oil/ diesel sitting on the water in the header tank. I've never heard of the header smelling of diesel though. Hope it turns out to be nothing to worry about.
 
I've heard a lot about diesel leaking into the engine oil, so oil leaking into the cooling system would give the same symptoms, if you had both problems, heaven forbid... :|
 
I hope not Clive I have smelt the oil on the dip stick and I can't smell any diesel on the oil I'm going to stick a k seal in it just incase I think
 
It won't be the ACSD.

Can you actually SEE the diesel ?

Do you meen the rubber has expanded due to fuel acting on it ?

I can't see how raw fuel can get in to the water system apart from head gasket failure. This would be a big leak though as if raw fuel is being pumped by the piston in to the water system there would be insufficient combustion to ignite the fuel. Also with a big leak you would possibly be presrurising the water system and probably using water.

Does the engine run evenly ? Also try cracking off each injector in turn with it running. Each cracking should have the same effect on the engine note.

I wonder if fuel got in during the rebuild ?

You could drain the water system, refill with just water, and see if the fuel returns. If the problem persists a compression test would be next.
 
I think I have a false alarm:icon-biggrin: when I stripped the engine I poured diesel in the cylinders so see if it drained away but I used a 25 litre drum so I got diesel everywhere now I'm thinking this is what was in the header tank obviously the diesel will float on the water and it's not as bad as I think I thought the water was all black and horrible when I looked in the header bottle last night in the dark but when I took the bottle out of the car today after it was clear so it was just me being a dope :doh: anyway Karl any chance you have the rubber that goes under the header tank cap the engine is running great frank I'm paranoid about the fuel in the sump because when I check my oil it is still golden but I did change it about 2 weeks ago and I did change the injector leek off washers I just have to keep reminding myself it's not a landrover and won't just fall to pieces on me when is Lincomb I want to get my self down there but I have lost my co driver due to her being heavily pregnant
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
If you put new washers on the injector spill banjos you won't have a leek in to the sump. Even if you do you will have to have a really bad one to do any damage. I must have had 3 Litres or so and my engine was not damaged, just cleaned lol. If you check your oil level it will confirm you don't have a leek. Then you can relax as they defo won't suddenly start leaking.

If the engine is running well it's most likely contamination during the rebuild especially in view of what you've said.

Nasty shock though.
 
Dont use k seal, it works a treat and as a last resort get me home fix, but it gunks everything up. I put some in a few years ago and its still showing its arse now. Even after flushes and being filled with distilled water and red coolent
 
dellboykev said:
I think I have a false alarm:icon-biggrin: when I stripped the engine I poured diesel in the cylinders so see if it drained away but I used a 25 litre drum so I got diesel everywhere now I'm thinking this is what was in the header tank obviously the diesel will float on the water and it's not as bad as I think I thought the water was all black and horrible when I looked in the header bottle last night in the dark but when I took the bottle out of the car today after it was clear so it was just me being a dope :doh: anyway Karl any chance you have the rubber that goes under the header tank cap the engine is running great frank I'm paranoid about the fuel in the sump because when I check my oil it is still golden but I did change it about 2 weeks ago and I did change the injector leek off washers I just have to keep reminding myself it's not a landrover and won't just fall to pieces on me when is Lincomb I want to get my self down there but I have lost my co driver due to her being heavily pregnant
Click to expand...


What was I saying about a simple explanation :whistle:

im sure I can find the seal and cap

you don't need a co driver for lincomb mate. Be fine on your own
 
Seen this before. When using cleaner the flame front is all wrong, instead of burning across the piston from the injector it simply collects and ignites at the edges of the bore/piston, this is the severest version of pre-detonation occurring and caused the ring lands to crush. This is why using ether to start engines is frowned upon but still used.

If the engine had not ignited the cleaner, then it would have pooled and caused the hydraulic lock mentioned earlier, the result then is usually bent connecting rods and a possible hole in the block, known as 'a leg out of bed' in the trade. If you still have the engine in bits have the con rods checked for straightness and the big end of the rods checked that they are truly round, this will ensure correct bearing crush, in the grand scheme of things this will be relatively cheap insurance.

regards

Dave
 
It is back together Dave and is running great I would like to have had the con rods checked but I rebuilt it over christmass so nowhere was open and I needed it back together to get me to work. K seal is good stuff I think the only problem is it hides small problems until they become big problems again I was only going to use it so I could get to work until I found the time to do the work it might of needed.
 
Have a look on page 4 second post. @dellboykev may be able to let you know where he got his. The link to eBay in post 2 is to a finished listing BUT it also then leads on to others. Teikin is the manufacturer and there's a set on there from another seller in red boxes. ( http://r.ebay.com/3nmh3Y ) You'll have to check they are right for what you need of course.

Thinking back, the smaller swirl chamber (combustion chamber) would give a higher compression ratio. There's a post from Heumey around page 4 giving info on the marinised version which says that Yamaha put pistons in to give higher compression ratios.
 
I ordered them off eBay they are the same ones @StarCruiser has put a link up to and payed around £350 they are good quality Pistons in my opinion and a damn site cheaper than toyota ones at £200 each from amayama. I have read your thread @lockie i can't remember if you are changing just the one or all of your Pistons if you are changing one I would go with a genuine one from amayama so you know the balance is right, but your best bet would be to change all 6 while you have the engine open for a couple of hundred more you will have a fully rebuilt engine.
 
Thanks Kev!
I'm going do all 6. Like you said, may as well while I'm there!
 
Just go by the book and you will be ok, I used one of them 3 leg glaze busters on a drill to do my bores when you do it remove the oil nozzles at the bottom because there is a risk of catching them and bending them when going up and down the bore. You have to mesure everything, the bores in 8 places, the ring end gap, crank journals etc I don't know why I bothered measuring the bores I couldn't afford an new block or second hand engine anyway so my new Pistons where going in no matter what. It will feel like brand new after a few hundred miles with new rings and shells.
 
Find that water leak first, or have you done that? Best to test block now pistons will be out even if the head gasket was leaking. Those pistons are cheaper than those I used to buy in 1960 !!!!
 
@dellboykev

"I don't know why I bothered measuring the bores I couldn'tafford an new block or second hand engine anyway so my new Pistons where going in no matter what. It will feel like brand new after a few hundred miles with new rings and shells"

Ha I'm in the same boat mate... I'm really stretching the funds to get this job done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
1hdft blow-by
Replies
0
Views
417
Sooty
S
Mick W
Engine rebuild update and warning to others regarding second hand parts
Replies
2
Views
239
Tractionman
T
E
J100 Amazon with 1hd-ft engine only revs at tickover speeds - why?
Replies
5
Views
618
Ezzlar
E
sim303
Diagnostic code 14 (4) Timing Control System Malfunction - the investigation begins
Replies
5
Views
2K
sim303
sim303
Olafs
Diff rebuild /ratios for 1997 80 series 1hdft
2
Replies
32
Views
4K
Olafs
Olafs
Back
Top