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1HD-FTE Intake Heater not turning on

IvanD

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Dec 11, 2018
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bulgaria
I have a HDJ100 that blows smoke on cold starts since I got it. White-ish, smells of unburnt diesel. Clears up 7-8-10 seconds after starting. Isn't visible at all above 18C (~65F) and gets pretty thick below 0C (32F).
Just got the injectors tested - perfect spray and pressures.

Seems to be a problem with the intake heater.
Never had the heater light come up on the dashboar before, but after the recent servicing (intake assembly clean up, injectors tested, other minor things) it appears very briefly (about a second). It's cold enough - single digits C, so it should come up. Heater was tested with direct 12V - heats. Would have checked resistance, but the FSM does not give an expected value. Heater relay seems to work as expected.

What should I check next? Which temperature sensor does it use to determine if it should be on or off?

Can it also be the pump? I couldn't get it checked, as none of the diesel specialist I have contacted in the entire country (!) wants to touch the FTE pump.
I don't have any other complaints. Runs smooth, no atypical noises or knocks, no smoke once started, no noticeable fuel drips.
 
I’ve no specific info on this Ivan, but if you can disconnect the supply to the relay coil and put a short term temporary wire on it to switch it then hold it on and start it you will see if it cures your issue. Once proven, you can eliminate your other suspects. I doubt you have any other issues but doing this will prove it. If you can get hold of an electrical diagram I believe there is a timer for the heater which may be worth testing with a view to replacing. Check the relay, they are known to go bad on 80 series, possibly on the 100 too though other members may confirm this either way. If you can get a DC current clamp meter and test on the thick cable feeding the heater you’ll see if that side is working ok. You’ll not get much resistance across it. I’d say in the very low single digits but the current test would confirm it working and prove not just the heater.
 
The intake heater is not required at any temperature, but if you still have this battery and alternator killer connected, it will come on with the ignition for up to 90 seconds if the coolant temperature is under 40 C. The light in the instrument cluster will not light up, normally. I've seen it on for a second when it's very cold outside, but the heater is always on for 90 secs at cold starts, summer or winter.

There is smoke from an old diesel like this, and the colder it is the more noticeable. The intake heater grid is not an aid for starting in the cold, it is purely an environmental device. The cold start is secured by the fueling of the injection pump, which will compensate for intake temp and coolant temp. When it's really cold, it will do double squirts, which is noticeable as a "funny" combustion sound.

When you say perfect spray patterns and pressures, be aware that there was a change in both between the early years with the 4-speed auto and the later years with the 5-sp auto. The diesel workshop that I used didn't have that info and I had to get it from the FSM, when I changed my nozzles.

If the smoke is really bad, worse than other HDJ100s, you might have a valve or a sensor which is slightly out.
 
@uHu, supposedly the workshop is aware of the FTE injectors.
When it's warm outside (~10C and more) it fires up instantly. When cold it takes a bit of cranking.
Here is a video of starting this morning when it was -3C . Took some cranking and was smoky for about 30 seconds after that, then cleared up.


Valves were adjusted a week ago. No change. Next is to bypass the relay and force the heater on and see where that goes.
I am also suspecting valve seals and burning of the oil collected in the cylinders overnight,l.
 
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If you mean valve stem seals, if worn enough to worry about, you would see smoke on a downhill run with the throttle closed (over run). As already said, a bit of whiteish smoke on a cold start up is not uncommon with older diesels.

edit, by throttle closed, I mean foot off the accelerator !
 
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@uHu, supposedly the workshop is aware of the FTE injectors.
When it's warm outside (~10C and more) it fires up instantly. When cold it takes a bit of cranking.
Here is a video of starting this morning when it was -3C . Took some cranking and was smoky for about 30 seconds after that, then cleared up.


Valves were adjusted a week ago. No change. Next is to bypass the relay and force the heater on and see where that goes.
I am also suspecting valve seals and burning of the oil collected in the cylinders overnight,l.
Sorry, that is not 'a bit of cranking' theres nothing wrong from what I can see from your short video.

I was expecting, cranking over for at least 30 seconds and enough smoke to hide the back of the car. In my humble opinion, I think your 'over thinking it' which is not wrong as we all do it some times.

Good Luck :text-happynewyear:
 
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I was hoping that this kind of smoke is something that is really not supposed to happen that I can fix, as it's driving me nuts. People around me definitely do not appreciate it...
Tried to manually force the intake heater this morning by bypassing the relay and connecting the positive wire directly, but nothing happened even after couple of minutes waiting. 500W in such small volume should definitely warm up the enclosure at least a bit.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it's not a fuse, but a fusible link, so will check that next. If the heater is blown (I can't even imagine how would that happen) I will probably just have to live with it...
 
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I have removed the intake heater on my truck, no smoke on start up even in below zero temperatures in Miskolc Hungary in February, the Pyrenees in November, has always started on the turn straight to idle with no hesitation.
I have never had the problem you have so unfortunately I can not offer any advice.
 
I was hoping that this kind of smoke is something that is really not supposed to happen that I can fix, as it's driving me nuts. People around me definitely do not appreciate it...
Tried to manually force the intake heater this morning by bypassing the relay and connecting the positive wire directly, but nothing happened even after couple of minutes waiting. 500W in such small volume should definitely warm up the enclosure at least a bit.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it's not a fuse, but a fusible link, so will check that next. If the heater is blown (I can't even imagine how would that happen) I will probably just have to live with it...
Have you had a look to see if the heater matrix is still there, I have read stories of them being removed, not only as it does nothing for the motor, apart from, as uHu says, puts a massive strain on the alternator and battries, it also restricts the air flow in the intake, I also have disconnected mine, but have stopped short of ripping the matrix out.
 
I was hoping that this kind of smoke is something that is really not supposed to happen that I can fix, as it's driving me nuts. People around me definitely do not appreciate it...
Tried to manually force the intake heater this morning by bypassing the relay and connecting the positive wire directly, but nothing happened even after couple of minutes waiting. 500W in such small volume should definitely warm up the enclosure at least a bit.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it's not a fuse, but a fusible link, so will check that next. If the heater is blown (I can't even imagine how would that happen) I will probably just have to live with it...
The best way is to test the current drawn by the heater with a DC clamp meter. You’ll need to ask around to see if you can borrow one or take the truck to someone who can check it for you. You can also test for voltage at the heater and continuity across it which should read in the order of 0.2 to 0.3 ohms.

From your video it’s not oil smoke. It’s not the right colour.

Some things to check.

Is your oil level correct? Does it gradually increase and smell of diesel?
Is your cooling system ok or does it lose coolant or over pressurise?
Does the white smoke smell? Does it seem oily?
Have you done a compression test?
what evidence leads you to suspect the heater is the problem, especially given that others are saying that with the heater disconnected, they don’t get quite as much smoke as you do?
Has this come on suddenly or over a period of time?

You are right in saying you have an extended crank time knowing how these engines (or at least the 1HD-T) fire up on half a turn of the key.

General question to members, does the 1HD-FTE have suction/spill control valves?

Finally, if these pumps were problematic, any diesel shop would work on them. The fact that nobody does should (at least in theory) tell you some good news.

I had a misfire on mine and took it to a diesel specialist. The first thing he said was ‘it won’t be the pump’.
The only thing I have found in the FSM connected with the pump is the non return valves. It basically says if injectors are correct and fuel system is still suspected then it’ll be the non return valves or ‘delivery valves’ but that’s on the 1HD-T
 
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Heater matrix is there as the heater was removed for service. The entire intake was taken from the rubber hose coming out of the intercooler to the swirl flaps for cleaning. Lot's of soot and carbon.
After the service my mechanic let me know that it's not working. I trust the guy, it's not something he did.

Oil is at the correct level. Keeps a healthy colour for a while and no diesel/burnt smell from the stick.
Cooling is ok. No loss of coolant, change of colour, etc. Thermostat was just changed - now warms up to working temperature much quicker. Hoses do not become super hard.

The smoke smells. To my untrained nose it's more like oil, but my guy is telling me raw diesel and everybody is saying it's the diesel colour. I have no experience with exhaust smoke and smell, so it very well might be that.

Haven't done a compression test. Would like to, but first have to find somebody with the right adapter for the injector holes. If it was that, wouldn't it be burning oil?

I got the car 10 months ago and it has been like that ever since. Not much known about previous history, but it is in incredibly good overall condition otherwise.

Yeah, the pump section in the FSM is incredibly sparse. For the mechanical one in the 1HD-FT its 20+ pages long with all kinds of tests!
 
General question to members, does the 1HD-FTE have suction/spill control valves?

Yes there is a spill control valve. I'm not too sure on how accurate these figures would be for the fte (anybody with more knowledge please jump in) , but on the 1kz if testing with an ohm meter, with the plug disconnected the reading should be between 1 and 2 ohms.

FTE spill valve.jpg
 
Thinking about this, from what I’ve read of 90 series 1KZTE problems, is that symptoms are completely different to those described by the OP.
To me this has all the hallmarks of slightly low compression. Iirc the 1HD-TE has no heater plugs so compression testing is not so straightforward. Hopefully the OP will come back and say he had it checked when the injectors were out, through the injector ports.
 
Hmm. Might not be helpful, but one cheap and easy thing that might be worth a try is to use some contact cleaner on the SCV connector, apparently there was some trouble with them in the past (https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/100-series-spill-control-valve.139731/). On ih8mud, there was someone who had trouble with the SCV and one of the symptoms stated was "horrid smog emitted on start up"
Oh good spot there Flint! :clap:
Definitely worth a try if that was the fix. Maybe my one functioning brain cell was on to something after all. :icon-razz: :think:
 
I have a HDJ100 that blows smoke on cold starts since I got it. White-ish, smells of unburnt diesel. Clears up 7-8-10 seconds after starting. Isn't visible at all above 18C (~65F) and gets pretty thick below 0C (32F).
Just got the injectors tested - perfect spray and pressures.

Seems to be a problem with the intake heater.
Never had the heater light come up on the dashboar before, but after the recent servicing (intake assembly clean up, injectors tested, other minor things) it appears very briefly (about a second). It's cold enough - single digits C, so it should come up. Heater was tested with direct 12V - heats. Would have checked resistance, but the FSM does not give an expected value. Heater relay seems to work as expected.

What should I check next? Which temperature sensor does it use to determine if it should be on or off?

Can it also be the pump? I couldn't get it checked, as none of the diesel specialist I have contacted in the entire country (!) wants to touch the FTE pump.
I don't have any other complaints. Runs smooth, no atypical noises or knocks, no smoke once started, no noticeable fuel drips.
Is this any help.

Screenshot 2020-01-23 at 16.42.54.png Screenshot 2020-01-23 at 16.43.43.png
 
I have a HDJ100 that blows smoke on cold starts since I got it. White-ish, smells of unburnt diesel. Clears up 7-8-10 seconds after starting. Isn't visible at all above 18C (~65F) and gets pretty thick below 0C (32F).
Just got the injectors tested - perfect spray and pressures.

Seems to be a problem with the intake heater.
Never had the heater light come up on the dashboar before, but after the recent servicing (intake assembly clean up, injectors tested, other minor things) it appears very briefly (about a second). It's cold enough - single digits C, so it should come up. Heater was tested with direct 12V - heats. Would have checked resistance, but the FSM does not give an expected value. Heater relay seems to work as expected.

What should I check next? Which temperature sensor does it use to determine if it should be on or off?

Can it also be the pump? I couldn't get it checked, as none of the diesel specialist I have contacted in the entire country (!) wants to touch the FTE pump.
I don't have any other complaints. Runs smooth, no atypical noises or knocks, no smoke once started, no noticeable fuel drips.

Screenshot 2020-01-23 at 16.54.21.png
 
I haven't had the chance to dig around too much, as it's super cold and I can only work outside on the cruiser.

The diagrams are nice as they are easier to understand at a first glance, compared to the wiring diagram, but I have tried bypassing the ECU signal already. Next step will be to check the fusible link for the heater.

@StarCruiser I couldn't measure compression. The shop that was working on the intake and took the injectors out didn't have and couldn't make the adapter to measure compression through the injector holes :(
 
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