1KZ-TE AC Compressor bearing replacement kit

[Bert]

Hello Fellows.

I've had a seach on previous threads but I can't find any information.
Has anyone replaced the bearings in their AC compressor? Mine are getting noisy and there's a little play in the wheel.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Cush

 

[MODVRS]

I've replaced the electromagnetic clutch and pulley assembly in the past but can't help if you are referring to the main bearings in the actual compressor; I would think that would need a replacement unit but I'm only guessing.

 

[Bert]

Hi MODVRS...... Thanks for your input. If you can remember, is there a sealed bearing race of some description in the magnetic clutch? I think that's the bit making a bit of noise. When I take the drive belt off, and spin the compressor wheel, it 'rumbles' as bit and sounds worn, plus there is a smidge of play back and forth. So, I would guess that the clutch spins on a sealed race bearing? Did you go to Toyota for this part, or from another source?

Cheers,
Cush

 

[MODVRS]

I remember it well. not the easiest job on the V6 petrol as access is limited. I replaced the clutch pulley and the idler pulley as I couldn't really tell which was making the noise. My plan was to just replace the bearings but I managed to damage the clutch pulley levering it off (I probably wouldn't have ruined it if I'd taken the snap ring off first!). I got oem parts from Amayama.com which all came to about £165 in 2017 including import taxes, VAT and handling charges, three weeks delivery. Toyota dealer wanted about double. I've added some pictures of the old and new parts. The clutch bearing on mine was NACHI 30BGS10DST and is about £25 on it's own from any good bearing supplier.

I subsequently replaced the bearing on my sister's Suzuki Swift with a £20 one from a bearing shop in Southampton. Like the Toyota it was staked in place but was easy enough to bash out and the new one was a tight fit, although I did use the glue recommended by the bearing shop as well as try to do my own re-staking job. Saved her £300.


Old pulley number:

Old pulley and new box:

Old idler pulley:

Snap ring (only fits one way as it is bevelled)

New clutch with snap ring fitted the wrong way! - what are the odds?

New pulley

New circlip

New snap ring

Bearing glue

One final thing to mention is to be aware of the tiny shims behind the outer and inner clutch pulleys when you remove the first 10mm bolt; they will fall out and go down a drain without doubt. There are some good Youtube videos on doing this job. Good luck.

 

[MODVRS]

this job is similar to ours

 

[StarCruiser]

Worth a look at the thread on here where two compressors were made into one. Search ‘Frankenstein’ and you’ll find it. The ‘nose’ that the bearing sits on can wear if the bearing spins on it. Not good. Personally I would avoid any loctite on this bearing nose (to replace in the pulley is a good idea if it cannot be re-staked) unless it’s necessary with a worn nose as the clips should do the job. The washers mentioned are shims to set the gap. The thread I mentioned shows testing the gap and setting these up if necessary.