The chip flashes a green light and according to tune it they say it's adding more fuel ... then at 3800 revs a red light comes on and it takes off like a shot of nitrous .. tune it says that's when the engine is under strain .. I'm serious when I say this. I could be in 5 th gear getting to around 90 and it will be gaining speed and revs slowly but surely .. then it will hit that 3800 revs and shoot to over 100 in a couple of seconds ...Thinking about this your chip does work and its wired right .
The trouble is the chip is designed to increase the performance of a standard truck and your modifications mean the chip is not coming into play until the sensors tell it your at peak power .
This graph is just a quick find but look how the torque and power curve are altered through modification .
Your passed the peaks that your chip is set to recognize probably by about 2000rpm in each gear so it shuts off to keep you safe . By fluke of design at 3800rpm the chip recognizes your running lean and adds more fuel .
It's a theory anyway
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
1kzte chip .
- Thread starter Edmo
- Start date
Tune it don't seem to know there product at all . I can't get any sense out of them at all .. I can tell them anything about my trucks behaviour before and after every mod .. if they actually told me how it worked and what wires I need to locAte and why I could probably pay a auto spark to install it ..
Ok Shakespeare lol .
Tuneing is an art form I must say Shayne I'm no fan of the race in formula 1 but I do love the engine side off it all. I once put a spanny pipe and a larger jet on my Kawasaki ar 50 and it done 50 mph. I then put a 80 cc barrel on it and I got the head ported , I then put a extra gear in it and it done 80 mph . I guess I'm just hooked to getting more bhp . I just want to be faster than the defender diesels.. I'm fighting for toyota in a land rover dominated country .
Tuneing is an art form I must say Shayne I'm no fan of the race in formula 1 but I do love the engine side off it all. I once put a spanny pipe and a larger jet on my Kawasaki ar 50 and it done 50 mph. I then put a 80 cc barrel on it and I got the head ported , I then put a extra gear in it and it done 80 mph . I guess I'm just hooked to getting more bhp . I just want to be faster than the defender diesels.. I'm fighting for toyota in a land rover dominated country .
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 16,206
Shakesbeer i was pissed when i wrote that lost post 
Squeezing more speed out of bikes was my hobby long ago so i get where your coming from though i struggle to imagine a Defender keeping up with my truck unless it has a 5 litre cummins or something in it ?
I suggest you turn down boost and fuel , move your intake sensors into the intercooler , which was the thing that finally made it all click for me , fit the Tunitand then start pushing the limits .
I have a turboT boost controller but its set at 14psi because i don't see the point in going beyond that unless i can increase the fuel in tandem .
What i have done is basically maxed out the factory settings because the digitally controlled fuel air mix is likely far more accurate than anything i might bodge to beat the system .
The mrs drives a bog standard KDJ90 which is said to have 163 hp from the factory but she says my truck flogs hers and i reckon a chip could only improve it .
Squeezing more speed out of bikes was my hobby long ago so i get where your coming from though i struggle to imagine a Defender keeping up with my truck unless it has a 5 litre cummins or something in it ?
I suggest you turn down boost and fuel , move your intake sensors into the intercooler , which was the thing that finally made it all click for me , fit the Tunitand then start pushing the limits .
I have a turboT boost controller but its set at 14psi because i don't see the point in going beyond that unless i can increase the fuel in tandem .
What i have done is basically maxed out the factory settings because the digitally controlled fuel air mix is likely far more accurate than anything i might bodge to beat the system .
The mrs drives a bog standard KDJ90 which is said to have 163 hp from the factory but she says my truck flogs hers and i reckon a chip could only improve it .
Last edited:
Move the intake sensors ? ? . As in the air sensor on the black plastic intake from the air box ???? Does that actually do anything serious ??Shakesbeer i was pissed when i wrote that lost post
Squeezing more speed out of bikes was my hobby long ago so i get where your coming from though i struggle to imagine a Defender keeping up with my truck unless it has a 5 litre cummins or something in it ?
I suggest you turn down boost and fuel , move your intake sensors into the intercooler , which was the thing that finally made it all click for me , fit the Tunitand then start pushing the limits .
I have a turboT boost controller but its set at 14psi because i don't see the point in going beyond that unless i can increase the fuel in tandem .
What i have done is basically maxed out the factory settings because the digitally controlled fuel air mix is likely far more accurate than anything i might bodge to beat the system .
The mrs drives a bog standard KDJ90 which is said to have 163 hp from the factory but she says my truck flogs hers and i reckon a chip could only improve it .
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
ShAyne .. google bowler nemesis v caterham 7 ... it just awesome
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 16,206
Those sensors tell the ecu how much fuel to release i was constantly turn the screw on the pump and it just never felt right until i moved the sensors . My cooler is genuine Toyota either of a Prado import or a Hilux Surf so its set to accept the sensors and i just had to extend the wiring .
Bowlers are awesome but they ain't Landrovers they are custom built from the ground up .
Bowlers are awesome but they ain't Landrovers they are custom built from the ground up .
Your playing with the map sensor on that photoe ... I've tricked that with a basic bleed off already and my boost gauge comes off it so it gets an after the cooler reading . That only works off pressure right ?
The plug in my hand went to the back of the intercooler which still had the old sensor in it and the plug in the air pipe hooked into the socket you can see on the cooler .
Sorry Shayne but I don't quite follow . On my truck that's my map sensor . And that just works off pressure right ??? It's already on the inlet manifold witch is after the cooler so it gets the correct reading . . I've got my boost gauge plumbed into it so I get post cooler pressures .
The plug in my hand went to the back of the intercooler which still had the old sensor in it and the plug in the air pipe hooked into the socket you can see on the cooler .
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 16,206
Elecktrickery is evil i reckon but my take on it is the ecu uses temperature and pressure to calculated oxygen and adds whatever fuel can be burnt with the oxygen available .
When Toyota themselves decided to add an intercooler to this engine they moved the sensors which says it all really .
Tuning was a gradual process for me and sometime after i had all the bits fitted i realized i had turned the fuel up at the pump with every new mod and had long since lost the mark i put on the screw to show me where it was factory set . So i turned the fuel down as far as it would go , it was still drivable but sorely down on power .
Nudged it up a tiny little bit and went for a drive = better , then i nudged it up again and so on until it felt about right , then i left it alone for a week to get used to the feel then turned it up a smidgen more and it improved again though only slightly . Another week i turned it up again and felt no gains so nudged it back .
Fuel that can't be burnt costs power and air that has no fuel to ignite it does the same .
Trouble is diesel has a huge tolerance for a messed up fuel air mix and it will just keep going whether its belting out black smoke because its getting too much fuel or running on fumes because its not getting enough .
When Toyota themselves decided to add an intercooler to this engine they moved the sensors which says it all really .
Tuning was a gradual process for me and sometime after i had all the bits fitted i realized i had turned the fuel up at the pump with every new mod and had long since lost the mark i put on the screw to show me where it was factory set . So i turned the fuel down as far as it would go , it was still drivable but sorely down on power .
Nudged it up a tiny little bit and went for a drive = better , then i nudged it up again and so on until it felt about right , then i left it alone for a week to get used to the feel then turned it up a smidgen more and it improved again though only slightly . Another week i turned it up again and felt no gains so nudged it back .
Fuel that can't be burnt costs power and air that has no fuel to ignite it does the same .
Trouble is diesel has a huge tolerance for a messed up fuel air mix and it will just keep going whether its belting out black smoke because its getting too much fuel or running on fumes because its not getting enough .
Now that is a different story Shayne . If toyota moved it then I'm all ears .. so was it the map ? And is it connected in to the cooler itself ?
