Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

1kzte chip .

Edmo

New Member
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
20
Country Flag
great_britain
Hi.
I'm trying to find out how to fix a wiring problem i have with a tune it chip I have recently bought.. the instructions say thAt I must wire two wires to the fuel pump .
1 to the fuel signal wire
2 must be earthed to the pump.
My problem is I don't know which is the signal wire on the pump. I thought it was the red wire on the spill valve but the chip didn't work at all .
I managed to find the fuel wire on the ecu and I cut into it and joined up the chip which made the chip work but not very well..
How the chip performed was . There was no extra power untill 3800 revs and then it took off like a scalded cat . I can only presume that the power delay was because the signal had to much resistance while it was wired to the ecu .
There is no way I want a burst of power at those high revs .
It's unfortunate that the tunit instructions are basic and thAt they don't match my wires or that tunit it themselves has made any effort to help me out after 50 calls at least .. please can some one tell me what wire is the fuel signal wire on a 1kzte denso pump.
 
From memory so i might be wrong but my truck isn't here to look at right now , The lowest nearest to the windscreen connection on the pump is brown .
If i'm right Beau asked to pull this once to confirm the truck wouldn't start without it . I pulled the same plug again so i could use the key to turn over the engine and prime a new turbo with oil without firing up .

So it's a likely candidate i reckon but i would wait for Beau to say hello before you do anything as he knows these pumps inside and out .
 
From memory so i might be wrong but my truck isn't here to look at right now , The lowest nearest to the windscreen connection on the pump is brown .
If i'm right Beau asked to pull this once to confirm the truck wouldn't start without it . I pulled the same plug again so i could use the key to turn over the engine and prime a new turbo with oil without firing up .

So it's a likely candidate i reckon but i would wait for Beau to say hello before you do anything as he knows these pumps inside and out .
Thanks again for your help.
The lowest and furthest back is the timer control valve which I believe is for the pump timing. It's worth a try but die love to hear from beau .
Thanks
 
He moved to America so he's usually on here late at night - when all the cheerleaders have gone to bed i guess .

The control valve releases the fuel , there's a screw on top that allows us to turn up the fuel .
 
He moved to America so he's usually on here late at night - when all the cheerleaders have gone to bed i guess .

The control valve releases the fuel , there's a screw on top that allows us to turn up the fuel .
Cheer leaders lol .
The one you turn up the fuel is the spill valve and it's at the top with a red and black wire with a Alan key under a rusty cap . I've already adjusted that . And I wired up the chip to the red but it didnt work .
How do I message him directly?
 
Find a post by him click on his name and a box will pop up . Click start conversation to private message him , but as i say he's in a different time zone and when he signs in after work or when he gets up he will receive a notification that we have been talking about him here .
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Find a post by him click on his name and a box will pop up . Click start conversation to private message him , but as i say he's in a different time zone and when he signs in after work or when he gets up he will receive a notification that we have been talking about him here .
I really appreciate the help .
 
hmm either those instructions are wrong, or somethings missing.

There is no designated fuel signal on the pump. The Spill control valve (that red wire) comes from the ECU which controls the quantity of fuel. This is likely to be the wire you want, however it may be better to wire your box in from the ECU side, not the fuel pump side (This could be why it's only working at 3800RPM).

2 being earthed at the pump seems strange... Honestly, before you do anything I'd make sure to either find the correct instructions, or someone else who has fitted one. That spill control valve works at low voltage and 12 volt will actually kill it. Alongside this, you don't want to fry the ECU either.

Also I'd recommend scrolling through the "cooling the 1kzt-e motor" thread to make sure you're good to go for the additional power and heat created by adding one of these. Have a search on the 90's section.
 
http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=20382

I'm not a member of that forum and i don't intend to sign up just to follow the teaser that comes up in google results

"it pretty much needs 3 things for it to work, TPS, map sensor and the spill ... The stupid thing is, if you buy a chip off their site, it doesn't ask of you ... fitting one of their units to a 1kz surf. same unit thats on my 2003 1kz hilux."
 
hmm either those instructions are wrong, or somethings missing.

There is no designated fuel signal on the pump. The Spill control valve (that red wire) comes from the ECU which controls the quantity of fuel. This is likely to be the wire you want, however it may be better to wire your box in from the ECU side, not the fuel pump side (This could be why it's only working at 3800RPM).

2 being earthed at the pump seems strange... Honestly, before you do anything I'd make sure to either find the correct instructions, or someone else who has fitted one. That spill control valve works at low voltage and 12 volt will actually kill it. Alongside this, you don't want to fry the ECU either.

Also I'd recommend scrolling through the "cooling the 1kzt-e motor" thread to make sure you're good to go for the additional power and heat created by adding one of these. Have a search on the 90's section.
ThIs intersecting about the spill being low voltage . Just so we are on the same page
hmm either those instructions are wrong, or somethings missing.

There is no designated fuel signal on the pump. The Spill control valve (that red wire) comes from the ECU which controls the quantity of fuel. This is likely to be the wire you want, however it may be better to wire your box in from the ECU side, not the fuel pump side (This could be why it's only working at 3800RPM).

2 being earthed at the pump seems strange... Honestly, before you do anything I'd make sure to either find the correct instructions, or someone else who has fitted one. That spill control valve works at low voltage and 12 volt will actually kill it. Alongside this, you don't want to fry the ECU either.

Also I'd recommend scrolling through the "cooling the 1kzt-e motor" thread to make sure you're good to go for the additional power and heat created by adding one of these. Have a search on the 90's section.
Yes I've been through the cooling part . I'm preparing this 90 to cross country race . I've ported the head ,and inlet manifold , made a 3 inch stainless dump pipe, straight through 2.5 saust egt gauge , water temp gauge coz Toyotas is far to lazy ,low temp stat ,front mount intercooler. And she is in the role cage shop as I txt . The only issue I've got is finding the wire this pump needs wired to ... the instructions I have do no represent my pump wiring at all but in the comments it says if you have a denso pump you should wire the brown to pump signal wire 5v and the earth t to the body of the pump
 
http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=20382

I'm not a member of that forum and i don't intend to sign up just to follow the teaser that comes up in google results

"it pretty much needs 3 things for it to work, TPS, map sensor and the spill ... The stupid thing is, if you buy a chip off their site, it doesn't ask of you ... fitting one of their units to a 1kz surf. same unit thats on my 2003 1kz hilux."
Oh yes and I've managed to trick the map sensor and run 1.4 bar boost .. believe it or not it actually lowers egts allot because it's a more air less fuel situation . I just want more fuel and I won't be far from 200 horses.
 
Interesting, how have you tricked the MAP sensor? Also we love pictures.

P.S Heading for a trip to NY so will be away from forum for the next couple weeks!
 
Interesting, how have you tricked the MAP sensor? Also we love pictures.

P.S Heading for a trip to NY so will be away from forum for the next couple weeks!
So what I did was put a fish tank none return valve before the map senser with a fuel jet out of a 50 cc moped to restrict the flow . and then in between the non return and the map I fitted a tee piece with an air bleeder to bleed off excess boost .. it's primitive but I assure you it works .. the problem is once you get over 1 bar boost you watch the egt s drop along with the power and that is just because the fuel isn't there to go with the boost .... if I can't get this chip working ill have no choice but to put a Mitsubishi mechanical pump on . The only problem I have with that is you butcher the car and as you turn up the fuel you get black smoke witch is banned from cross country raceing. Also I've read before that the denso pump is actually more capable of passing more fuel than a mechanical pump when it's chipped properly.. at the end of the day this dam tune it chip is driving me mad . Lol
 
The exhaust is the key to releasing the beast in the 1kz mate a 3" bore on mine turned it into a completely different animal .

Top gear 3000rpm i'm doing about 90mph at its still pulling , i have no doubt it would do it with my trailer on to given i dragged it to Romania and back mostly at 70 or 80mph .
All 085.JPG
 
I've got a 3 inch dump going down to straight 2.5 and she whistles like the wind . A definite improvement . I've done a front mount cooler to . It sits behind the grill and I've only had the first 100mms Luke warm . I've also had it ported too. I just need more fuel .. tunit have agreed to meet again with there engineer on June the 1st ... I've heard it all before but let's see.. if they don't sort it by then ill be going mechanical pump mitsu m4m I think it's called.. ps I love your truck . She looks bad pass .I'm gonna go matt black next .
 
My intercooler is top mount , i have resisted going for a chip or increasing the power beyond what i've got for quite a while because i feel too much power will ruin my truck off road , locked and low ruins handling at anything resembling speed , and as its a daily driver i reckon i leave enough expensive rubber staining tarmac with an over enthusiastic right foot .

I know what your saying about more fuel , i spent ages messing about trying to find the right fuel air ratio because to much of either saps power .

My guess is the chip modules extend the period of time fuel is injected letting more in on each stroke whereas the upgrade injectors allow for a greater volume of fuel to be added in Toyota's allotted time slot .

Have you moved your intake sensors into your cooler ?
 
How the chip performed was . There was no extra power untill 3800 revs and then it took off like a scalded cat . I can only presume that the power delay was because the signal had to much resistance while it was wired to the ecu

Thinking about this your chip does work and its wired right .

The trouble is the chip is designed to increase the performance of a standard truck and your modifications mean the chip is not coming into play until the sensors tell it your at peak power .

This graph is just a quick find but look how the torque and power curve are altered through modification .
bt-50_dyno.gif


Your passed the peaks that your chip is set to recognize probably by about 2000rpm in each gear so it shuts off to keep you safe . By fluke of design at 3800rpm the chip recognizes your running lean and adds more fuel .

It's a theory anyway :confused:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top