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80 series pulling to the right under braking
- Thread starter Steve80
- Start date
Interesting one this, I’m as puzzled as Steve is.
One phrase comes mind, new doesn’t guarantee it’s good, but how to check I’m not sure, other than pushing back the pads to be sure a piston isn’t binding.
Chris could have a point as well, a kinked hard-line might be restricting pressure on the left side.
One phrase comes mind, new doesn’t guarantee it’s good, but how to check I’m not sure, other than pushing back the pads to be sure a piston isn’t binding.
Chris could have a point as well, a kinked hard-line might be restricting pressure on the left side.
Central reservation?
On a machine I have, breakdown of the internal wall of flexi pipes led to brakes binding. Too slow to notice cross axle braking difference.
My 80 that does not do a lot of miles per annum and will pull right sometimes but seems to correct once used properly. I had assumed it was the left front brake not working properly. It is minor as it will pass an MOT like that.
My 80 that does not do a lot of miles per annum and will pull right sometimes but seems to correct once used properly. I had assumed it was the left front brake not working properly. It is minor as it will pass an MOT like that.
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I think its fixed!!! ??
Today I got to the Landcruiser in to see what the braking fault was.
Thanks all for the suggestions, so to cover all suggestions things I checked were- tyre pressures fine, wheel bearings no play, tie rod trailing arm bushes all solid no movement, flexi brake pipes sll ok and were replaced 12 months ago.
Still pulling to the right when braking, so I then fitted a new rear load valve, fitted new Brembo pads and then bled the brakes, bled them again and bled them some more.
It now brakes in a straight line, no longer pulling one way.
The front pads did look/ feel glazed over.
Again I'd like to thank you all for taking the time to suggest possible faults, you are all a good bunch of people.
Today I got to the Landcruiser in to see what the braking fault was.
Thanks all for the suggestions, so to cover all suggestions things I checked were- tyre pressures fine, wheel bearings no play, tie rod trailing arm bushes all solid no movement, flexi brake pipes sll ok and were replaced 12 months ago.
Still pulling to the right when braking, so I then fitted a new rear load valve, fitted new Brembo pads and then bled the brakes, bled them again and bled them some more.
It now brakes in a straight line, no longer pulling one way.
The front pads did look/ feel glazed over.
Again I'd like to thank you all for taking the time to suggest possible faults, you are all a good bunch of people.
Interesting Steve. I’m late to the party on this one but have a couple of things to add.
Chris is spot on with the LSPV. I adjusted mine when I put new springs on and took about 2 full years to realise the braking issues I was having such as wild veering to one side when heavy braking, were down to me having over adjusted the LSPV. This hardly showed on MOT brake checks.
Secondly, the cursed Smart Car had a similar issue, pulling to the right under braking. After replacing the master cylinder to no avail I replaced the ABS unit and found exactly as suspected, rust debris in the port (and most probably valve too) for the left front. The moral of this particular story is to retract pistons with the bleed nipple open so as not to push any rusty crud back to the ABS unit. The left front is often the closest (at least on the Smart at around 600mm of pipe) to the ABS unit so is most likely to be affected. No amount of bleeding, pumping brakes or anything helped mine, only replacement.
Chris is spot on with the LSPV. I adjusted mine when I put new springs on and took about 2 full years to realise the braking issues I was having such as wild veering to one side when heavy braking, were down to me having over adjusted the LSPV. This hardly showed on MOT brake checks.
Secondly, the cursed Smart Car had a similar issue, pulling to the right under braking. After replacing the master cylinder to no avail I replaced the ABS unit and found exactly as suspected, rust debris in the port (and most probably valve too) for the left front. The moral of this particular story is to retract pistons with the bleed nipple open so as not to push any rusty crud back to the ABS unit. The left front is often the closest (at least on the Smart at around 600mm of pipe) to the ABS unit so is most likely to be affected. No amount of bleeding, pumping brakes or anything helped mine, only replacement.
