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80 Series resurrection.

Hey Chris, no idea if you are intending to sell when you've finished (I'm guessing it's a keeper!) but just wondering what sort value you (or anyone else on the forum for that matter) would put on a truck that's had a rebuild as thorough as this one? With the inflated prices some quite shabby 80's are fetching these days I would say easily north of £10k, probably a LOT more IMO.

Hi Towpack, I've had this old girl for 10 years, it's sat in the yard for the last 4 tho' (since the '95 was bought). Nearly sold the old one on 2 occasions for not alot but didn't, possibly because the chassis no. is nearly all zeros but think mainly didn't need the space or the money.

It is a keeper really and can't see it being worth anywhere near 5 figures, maybe (and I'd love to know) if it was proven to be the earliest surviving UK 80 then that would push the value up a bit.

Anyway I like it...:thumbup: Thanks for those thoughts mate, got me thinkin now..............
 
Loving this thread keep it coming man

Hi Iceman, just had a couple of weeks away from the project, been back on it today but defo not easy picking up where ya left off. Will update with a few bits later and thanks, glad you've enjoyed it so far..:thumbup:
 
Thanks for sharing the project with us it makes for a very interesting post I am sure others like me are waiting for the latest updates on the project, with plenty of pictures of course.

It looks a very rewarding project I wish I had time to give my cruiser the "works" but it may have to wait until my retirement in twenty years.
 
Hi Mr T1pper, thanks for that, you have 20 left, me 10 so having to get finger out a bit..:icon-biggrin:

Have done a bit but nothing astounding, the mission now is to basically 'rob one truck to feed another' but clean and paint stuff as it passes over.

The front bumper transferred easily and in moment of madness got 'stone chip painted;

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It's awkwardly shown up the 1" body lift but not by too much, (was made at work out of scrap about 6 yrs ago)

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Rear +2" springs and all the procomp shocks came off;

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Am amazed the procomps still have gas pressure after 10 years, they were on the G reg. for 6 years then got painted and swopped onto the N reg.

So with me becoming ever tighter, painted em again..:?

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The gaiters look like new with a dishwasher session;

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The speckled finish is because they got derusted, emery'd etc then thought aha :icon-idea: as you do, the stone chip gun was sat there so the shocks had a lathering till it ran out.

And then the day ran out, thanks for looking.
 
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Hi Mr T1pper, thanks for that, you have 20 left, me 10 so having to get finger out a bit..:icon-biggrin:


Just have to keep my cruiser running and hung together for the next 20 years untill I can get the time to restore it, like you mines a keeper!
 
Evening all, always nice to see an update with pic's so here goes;

The +2" rear springs were cleaned;
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Not much of an arty shot but tryin..:wtf:

Started rebuilding the outer hubs/ brakes etc;

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It's powder coated in there;

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Say hilloo;

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Favourite tool are those 2 loading/stacking studs;

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100 series needles are doing well, must have been in there about 4 years?

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You can still see blue bearing grease and CV grease, didn't expect to see that,
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Busy stacking away.

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That's one corner done, the disc's are about a year old so still in good nick;

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It's pretty time consuming as a lot of these bits are being removed from the other truck, cleaned and painted etc.. back later..:thumbup:
 
Hi Folks, quickish update on the latest 'activity' here;

Pulled a CV out of the 95 truck and thought oops as it left the halfshaft still in the axle, then remembered doing a spring ring delete mod;

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The two welds opposite each other were supposedly to stop the free floating ringless shaft from migrating towards the diff, can't say anything about any real effects but it does look like the shaft has moved in and out a bit;

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The original seal wearline is still visible within the polished 'movement' area. The width of the polished area looks a lot so maybe the blob welds need moving further into the splines? It's going back together like this for now.

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It's not all nice clean work;

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Knocking seized pins out etc

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The rear back plates are going for blasting, Zinga coat and probably powder coat to try and save them.

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Threw a shocker on;

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Then started on the sacificial anodes ie; the ally bell crank pivots, There's 4 on the bench but only 1 is fully intact so will have to order new ones along with the rubber covers.
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It's fun intit........:shock: :thumbup:
 
Totally impressed, takes me back a few years, did a full V12 XJC rebuild waaaaaay back, so completely in tune with you on this.


regards

Dave
 
Amazing resurrection build you have there =) If I see one of this, it is gone in my mind, will not even attempt to bring it back to life.
 
Hi Dave, Ranma, thanks for your comments, It is tough going as you probably know but have to carry on eh..:thumbup:

Decided that those thin back plates would suffer distortion and 'blow thro' if shot blasted so went for some Electrolysis instead;

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Perfect recovery in progress;

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This is original factory bare metal, just a hose pipe and a stiff nylon brush;

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There's loads of info. on Y/T about setting up a tank to do this but keep doors and windows open to allow the explosive Hydrogen gas to escape..:thumbup:
 
Hello fine people, more progress here on rear disc/parking brakes, always a hateful area of the truck, well usually but not today..

The backplates did have a few pinholes after cleaning but absolutely lathered them in a very heavy zinc paint;

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Then painted them in Iron grey chassis enamel;

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Cleaned the bell cranks, pivot holes are worn slightly but they're ok;

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Fitted back into the alloy pivot bracket (which has a right and a wrong way up)

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This is the L/H side so thats the front shoe being pinned to the bell crank;

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Fitted with the weird bent clearance pin

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Rearmost shoe pinned on;

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push bracket thing;

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Adjuster poked in, never sure which way round this goes?

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spring 1 and 2
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Spring 3

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Spring 4

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And finally springs 5 and 6.

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Guess some of you know how all this goes together but some won't so hope the pic's help.. :thumbup:
 
I like that Fosroc Galvafroid, used it on a rotten but refurbished boat trailer topped with thick hammerite smooth.

I used it in and out of the sea for 6 years afterwards, and there was no sign of any peeling, rusting or chipping.

Good thread and great pics... :thumbup:
 
Hi Clive, thanks for that, yes the Fosroc is good stuff, the finish with a brush is terrible but does seem to give that 'this will last forever' feeling.

The 1 litre tin is at least twice as heavy as a tin of anything else so there must be a lot of Zinc in there..:thumbup:

Your truck looks interesting so off to find it.. :icon-cool:
 
It's not very special as 80's go Chris, but it suits my needs and I love it!
As a HZJ, most HDJ owners wouldn't cope with it, but it has loads of torque when needed, top speed and acceleration is not a requirement for me at my age [emoji222]
I've added stuff to make it fit for my purposes, but it's by no means intended for over landing, just a useful truck for hauling the family, with an off-road ability which is second to none, especially with the lift.
 
Being a HZJ Clive, I'd have said that was pretty special by purely by what it 'didn't' come with from the factory. Couldn't find a thread on your truck probably cos I'm stupid but a link or a clue would be good and waddaya mean "at your age"?....:drool:
 
Good picture there of the space between the dog bone spreader and the inside of the handbrake shoe. This is what the FNB kit fixes. Also important to get spring 2 and 3 on the right way round or the brake is utterly useless. Doesn't really matter about the adjuster in terms of which way it goes in Chris, but if you put them both in the same way it means that to slacken / tighten you go different ways on each wheel. If you flip one so they are facing opposite ways then you'll have a convention for tightening / slackening that's the same on both sides.
 
Good picture there of the space between the dog bone spreader and the inside of the handbrake shoe. This is what the FNB kit fixes. Also important to get spring 2 and 3 on the right way round or the brake is utterly useless. Doesn't really matter about the adjuster in terms of which way it goes in Chris, but if you put them both in the same way it means that to slacken / tighten you go different ways on each wheel. If you flip one so they are facing opposite ways then you'll have a convention for tightening / slackening that's the same on both sides.


Hi Chris, have got the adjuster convention as you say (ie; push on low side of cog each side to adjust shoes out)

Am unaware of the FNB kit or what it does, assuming it's an adjustable dog bone?

The wheels etc are still off so changing/correcting anything is easy at the moment, have adjusted it all up this morning and the handbrake lever feels damn good, not entirely sure on what you mean by springs 2 and 3 tho.

Have been round the local motor factors this morning hunting down a reel of Kunifer brake pipe and they looked at me like I was an Alien or something. "Only do copper mate". Will find some somewhere eh. Thanks for the help Chris.
 
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