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96-02 Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado 3" Leveling Lift Kit

You will probably have issues with cv angles if that kit really does give 3"' of lift.
 
it was not specificly the height but the method of lifting i was asking about.
 
I have and so has KZJ90 in Finland. It works very well but you can't use it in conjunction with a spring lift as well.

Oh and you have to lift the back as well or it looks like a dragster.

Chris
 
I guess a pro is that they are relatively inexpensive compared to a shock & coil lift, and the cons are that you won't get the same increased articulation or improved damping control as the shock & coil kits give.
 
IIRC they do a 1 and 2 inch one, would they not be ok used in conjunction with for instance a 2" iron man sl???
 
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1" spacers give about 45 mm lift. CV angles are just fine fit stock (old) springs.
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With 2" springs you should have differential drop brackets too.
 
SO, Gary, I'd love and ectra inch or 2 hows about making up some drop brackets for a swb (Can't Find a smilie that says V.V.V.V.V.V.V. Cheeky, If not any Idea where I could get hold of some :?: :?: :?:
 
Pretty sure I mentioned that you can't use these with a SL. It multiplies the lift and puts the CVs at such an angle that they'll snap like carrots. The diff drop kit helps only a small amount and will not fit with bash plates. The diff on a 90/95 has three mounts, two are 'droppable' but the rear one is a pivot and that's the limiting factor. The advantage of the spacer lift is that it moves your wheel centre forwards allowing easier fit of larger rubber which improves things where you really need it - ground clearance. Spacer lift and a diff drop is a nice easy bit of bling for a road going school bus.

They aren't actually drop brackets - they're just a thick round spacer. If you want to do a proper job then you need upper ball joint extensions.

God luck finding those.

All been tried - the threads are out there. No easy options, expensive and only very limited benefit. A proper SL is far more useful, but again not cheap. There are no short cuts.

But you don't have to take my word for it.

Chris
 
while under mine today doing the oils I loked at the front end and cant see where of how you can drop the diff, am I missing something :oops:
 
Well you don't so much drop it as tilt it. There are three mounting points. Two large obvious ones at the front and then a sort of pivot thing near the companion flange on the propshaft. You undo the main front bolts and let it drop down then put spacers in the gap and use longer bolts to fasten it back up. it drops the drive shafts a bit which helps to keep them straighter after a lift, but the issue is that if you have bash plates fitted, the two front mounts hit the plates preventing them from bolting up. You could cut holes and you could drop the skid plate a little in bracket extensions. But it's lot of trouble for not much.

Chris
 
thanks Chris :clap:

Doesnt sound like a lot of gain to me on the drive shafts, biggest gain would be in the propshaft angle I recon, I bet you would only get 1/4 inch on the shafts surely, if that :?
 
Not a lot more than that, no, but the effect that it has in straightening out the drive shafts is worth doing, probably to ease wear. But if you have that sort of lift and you are going for that sort of car then likely as not, you'll have bash plates and then we're back where we started. You can drop it quite a bit, the back pivot will take it, but as you point out, for every inch of spacer you probably only get half an inch of drive shaft gain.

All depends on what you are building.


Chris
 
suppose one other thing would be the oil level would be low and given that the pinion bearing is sat slightly higher you would need to emsure the diff was over full with oil to maintain sufficent lubrication to the pinion outer bearing
 
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