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A different approach to 80 series front axle rebuilds. Really?
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Ok, I'm slightly confused by something.
I've seen the upgrade to the axle where the longer spindle CV is used, by replacing the splined plate on the front of the hub.
That bit I get, but which CV do I use? There seem to be different part numbers on the epc with different lengths mentioned?
I know I can get this as a kit from Milner, but I want to do it using all OEM Toyota parts, and given the cost and that I'll have to order them from far overseas to reduce that cost (a bit) I would love if some one like Chris or Jon could post a definative list of part numbers for this job
I've seen the upgrade to the axle where the longer spindle CV is used, by replacing the splined plate on the front of the hub.
That bit I get, but which CV do I use? There seem to be different part numbers on the epc with different lengths mentioned?
I know I can get this as a kit from Milner, but I want to do it using all OEM Toyota parts, and given the cost and that I'll have to order them from far overseas to reduce that cost (a bit) I would love if some one like Chris or Jon could post a definative list of part numbers for this job
The part number I order for the longer ABS CV's is 43405-60070. afaik 43405-60050 is the short non abs version and 43405-60080 is the longer non abs version but I have only ever ordered the long ABS ones so could be wrong ...Ok, I'm slightly confused by something.
I've seen the upgrade to the axle where the longer spindle CV is used, by replacing the splined plate on the front of the hub.
That bit I get, but which CV do I use? There seem to be different part numbers on the epc with different lengths mentioned?
I know I can get this as a kit from Milner, but I want to do it using all OEM Toyota parts, and given the cost and that I'll have to order them from far overseas to reduce that cost (a bit) I would love if some one like Chris or Jon could post a definative list of part numbers for this job
Well there is no mystery here and I can't really see where your confusion lies. The upgrade is a deeper drive flange so that there is a greater contact area on the stub axle splines. Because the flange is deeper the stub axle section of the CV needs to be longer to reach the outside world. There are. Only two lengths shorter than long and longer than short. As Jon says though there is ABS and non ABS but that has nothing to do with the CV itself
I have both versions of the 80 and the cv is the same. The CV ring is just pressed on. If you are upgrading its likely that you won't have ABS. You can either fit the longer ABS version as it comes or knock the ring off if you don't want it. The cost on genuine is the same. If Milner offer a long one without ABS then fine if you can save a quid. But you said you were. Going with genuine anyway
When I bought my Longfields they didn't have ABS rings on so I pinched some old ones and tapped them on with a mallet
I have both versions of the 80 and the cv is the same. The CV ring is just pressed on. If you are upgrading its likely that you won't have ABS. You can either fit the longer ABS version as it comes or knock the ring off if you don't want it. The cost on genuine is the same. If Milner offer a long one without ABS then fine if you can save a quid. But you said you were. Going with genuine anyway
When I bought my Longfields they didn't have ABS rings on so I pinched some old ones and tapped them on with a mallet
43405-60030 cv for 1991 (90-92)
There seem to be 4 different types?
But going by what your saying it doesn't matter if ABS or not. I was just confused as to why there was a fourth part number listed. I get long with/without ABS and a short one. I guess the fourth one is a short one with ABS?
I know Im just laboring my confusion here, but I'm curious now!!
| 43405-60050 | L=238.5 then ther is this one (1993)
|
But going by what your saying it doesn't matter if ABS or not. I was just confused as to why there was a fourth part number listed. I get long with/without ABS and a short one. I guess the fourth one is a short one with ABS?
I know Im just laboring my confusion here, but I'm curious now!!
There was a short version with ABS, I think ABS was added in 93 and long CV's in 94.
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warrenpfo
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- Jul 21, 2010
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Chris
In pursuit of happiness, better steering and shinny balls I want to attack my front end. Not sure which day this will be on BUT know your guide will get me through.
Can I just clarify that all parts came from Toyota or have you been happy with some from else where and if so which ones. The bearings I will source from an independent as Toyota usually charge over the odds on them.
Do I/Should I change the lower knuckle studs whilst I am in there and I think there may be a wheel stud upgrade that may be worth doing whilst in there at the same time.
In pursuit of happiness, better steering and shinny balls I want to attack my front end. Not sure which day this will be on BUT know your guide will get me through.
Can I just clarify that all parts came from Toyota or have you been happy with some from else where and if so which ones. The bearings I will source from an independent as Toyota usually charge over the odds on them.
Do I/Should I change the lower knuckle studs whilst I am in there and I think there may be a wheel stud upgrade that may be worth doing whilst in there at the same time.
Ha ha, great post Warren.
No not all parts were from Yota. Those that were didn't come direct from the dealer either but our good friend Dr J. Milner do some genuine parts too at good prices. So that was where I got my bits in total.
I put new studs in the bottom arm yes. And I cleaned the holes with solvent etc, warmed them and used stud lock to hold them tight. I left them overnight to set too. Not sure about the wheel stud upgrade?
I think some prts are critical and used only genuine. The wiper seals and inner axle oil seals being the two main ones. Milner 54mm nuts are shite. Forget those. CVs are genuine (gulp) but I see that Pedders are doing CVs. Worth asking Roger about those. They are in the £120 region which MIGHT mean they are a mid price quality option.
Gaskets, rear hub seals, tab washers, thrust washers - most of that is always in stock in my garage and often from Milner. I don't buy genuine bearings. I use KOYO or anything Japanese usually from Miiner. I don't really subscribe to the theory that there is a factory set up somewhere making crap bearings. There is so much involved in making them, it would be like forging 2 pence pieces. On my off roader bearing life is an issue. I have to replace them a lot. The conditions are just not good for bearings even properly greased and installed. Hubs are not sealed and water and filth just pour in there.
If someone has fitted non gen (err Koyo we know are OEM) and done say 10k miles and had them fail then fine, I'll listen. But correctly fitted and maintained I haven't heard story after story from people doing long distances that their bearings failed before they got to Dover.
No not all parts were from Yota. Those that were didn't come direct from the dealer either but our good friend Dr J. Milner do some genuine parts too at good prices. So that was where I got my bits in total.
I put new studs in the bottom arm yes. And I cleaned the holes with solvent etc, warmed them and used stud lock to hold them tight. I left them overnight to set too. Not sure about the wheel stud upgrade?
I think some prts are critical and used only genuine. The wiper seals and inner axle oil seals being the two main ones. Milner 54mm nuts are shite. Forget those. CVs are genuine (gulp) but I see that Pedders are doing CVs. Worth asking Roger about those. They are in the £120 region which MIGHT mean they are a mid price quality option.
Gaskets, rear hub seals, tab washers, thrust washers - most of that is always in stock in my garage and often from Milner. I don't buy genuine bearings. I use KOYO or anything Japanese usually from Miiner. I don't really subscribe to the theory that there is a factory set up somewhere making crap bearings. There is so much involved in making them, it would be like forging 2 pence pieces. On my off roader bearing life is an issue. I have to replace them a lot. The conditions are just not good for bearings even properly greased and installed. Hubs are not sealed and water and filth just pour in there.
If someone has fitted non gen (err Koyo we know are OEM) and done say 10k miles and had them fail then fine, I'll listen. But correctly fitted and maintained I haven't heard story after story from people doing long distances that their bearings failed before they got to Dover.
warrenpfo
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Thanks Stu drop me the details as I will replace mine and keep them as spares.
Is it a good idea to order 2 STEERING SWIVEL HOUSING CONE WASHERs just in case and will I require some SWIVEL HOUSING BEARING SHIMs or am I to assume they are not needed?
Is it a good idea to order 2 STEERING SWIVEL HOUSING CONE WASHERs just in case and will I require some SWIVEL HOUSING BEARING SHIMs or am I to assume they are not needed?
Warren, I have done at least four complete swivel rebuilds now and I have never needed anything different than was already on there in the way of shims. I can't say more than that. They are available for a reason. Maybe I have been lucky. I have several spares, but have never needed them to get the correct pre load.
The Mllner ad is wrong of course and I have told them. You need 4 per side of the cone washers. I would only order those if you have some missing Warren. They clean up and go again. I bought the studs, and reused the nuts and cones.
The Mllner ad is wrong of course and I have told them. You need 4 per side of the cone washers. I would only order those if you have some missing Warren. They clean up and go again. I bought the studs, and reused the nuts and cones.
warrenpfo
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- Joined
- Jul 21, 2010
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Thanks Chris, I just spoke to a lady at Milner to ask about which parts are OEM and which are not and she said most are not genuine parts which I found surprising.
The other issue I have is that every time I place something in my "basket" the webpage jumps to the top and you have to scroll all the way back down again...bloody irritating I find.
The other issue I have is that every time I place something in my "basket" the webpage jumps to the top and you have to scroll all the way back down again...bloody irritating I find.
Really nice write up. I have never even considered the feeler gauge method!
We do a lot of axle rebuilds here. On 80 series 90%+ of the times we do it the shims that came out will be fine with the new trunion bearings providing 7-9 lbs of preload. If the truck has big tires I will fiddle the shims to get 12-14lbs of pre load to help with ft end shimmy.
We do a lot of axle rebuilds here. On 80 series 90%+ of the times we do it the shims that came out will be fine with the new trunion bearings providing 7-9 lbs of preload. If the truck has big tires I will fiddle the shims to get 12-14lbs of pre load to help with ft end shimmy.
