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Adjusting 80 series steering box

Adjusting screw seized to the lock nut

Hi Frank. I just had a go at adjusting my steering box (very clear instructions by the way) but found the adjusting screw is seized into the lock nut :icon-cry:.

It is an awkward place to work down there so I wondered if I could safely remove the screw (with the nut attached!) completely so that I could then free it off in a vice. Or if I do that will some important bits come adrift. Any idea?

Thanks.

Byron
 
I don't think the screw actually comes all the way out. I seem to recall that mine stopped.
 
As its external, some medium heat with a plumbers blowtorch and a quenching in plus-gas a few times should free it :think:
 
Thanks guys, that is very helpful information. I shall have another go at it after the Morocco trip. No point pushing my luck with just a few days before we leave. And, oddly enough, after me undoing the lock nut, fiddling around and tightening it back up again the steering feels fine :eusa-shhh:.
 
HI Frank, cheers for advice on steering adjustment, could you just clarify that the nut on the adjustment screw has to be removed as i got the nut and the screw to move independently, but the nut does not want to part company with the screw so i cant get full adjustment !! any advice be more than welcome. cheers.
frank rabbets said:
My 80 now drives on rails as I've adjusted the steering box The fwm isn't any good so here's how to do it.

1. Best after front axle rebuild but the below applies if you just want to adjust.
2. Slacken adjusting nut.
3. Hold adjuster screw with screwdriver and remove the nut.
4. Put car on front axle stands so both wheels off the ground.
5. Centre steering wheel.
6. Screw adjuster screw in hard and completely till it stops.
7. Turn same screw back so it just becomes loose the back carefully until you feel it tighten again. Usually 180 degrees.
8. Turn steering back and forth once to each full lock using road wheels, not steering wheel.
9. Check screw is still loose to turn clock wise and turn until resistance is just felt. Put nut on and tighten without moving the adjuster. If screw is tight clockwise go to 7 above and repeat.

The adjuster pushes the steering box spindle in and out of the box. There is 180 degrees play before it pushes or pulls the spindle. The spindle is a bit like a shuttle cock having tapered teeth on it. Screwing it into the box takes up any wear. Wear may be uneven so when you move the steering back and forth any high spots push the spindle back up into it's tightest practical position. That's why you have to loosen the screw otherwise the screw will not allow the spindle move back out.


Check by taking the car for a run and make sure the steering wheel returns properly when straightening up after a turn. If no return the adjuster has been overtightened and/or there is a high spot not adjusted for.

Frank
Click to expand...
 
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You don't necessarily have to remove the nut. However when you screw the screw right down until it stops make sure there is clearance under the nut so it is not the nut that is stopping the screw from going further in. Not a very precise procedure I'm afraid. the most important thing is to check there are no tight spots in the steering box before driving.
 
It is in a swine of a place to get at but IIRC I managed to get a socket and extension on mine, maybe with a UJ but it was a pig. Could try soaking in diesel or good old fashioned graphited penetrating oil for a while.
 
:thumbup: just did this after nearly been blown off the britannia bridge this morning. Havent had a chance to test it but if I end up going round in a circle tomorrow its all franks fault
 
IMG_1370.JPG
UPDATE.

I found that sometimes the screw gets jammed and I can not undo it to relieve a high/tight spot in the steering box. To relieve this I lean over the RH wing and turn the steering column/shaft with my left hand and undo the screw with my right hand. I can feel it backing off in little jerks. Wheels off the ground of course. I also dropped off the steering arm ball joint.

It's completely important not to drive the car with a tight spot in the steering box.
 
Hi Clive, Yes I bought the head at an Ex army shop in the Forest of Dean in about 1960. That's the original paint. I don't think you can get one that heavy anymore. Against health and safety I expect.
 
14 lb "sledge" comes to mind... from the old railway construction days...
 
I think they went up to 20lb Frank, it would be interesting....
 
17 lbs including handle Clive. I can't scratch the metal with a file so it must be hardened. There is an almost hemispherical head on one side. Don't know what it was used for. Has the military arrow cast in. Possibly taking apart tank track link pins.
 
I tried the steps a couple of times the past 12 months, but my steering box is definitely worn uneven. Turning is now at the stiffest, but in the middle there is still 4-5cm play. If I thighten more, the steering wheel won't come back to the center. The steering shaft, coming from the steering wheel, moves directly when you move the steering wheel. But the steering box doesn't react. Only after 4-5cm of turning the steering wheel.
It is really annoying... Especially when you drive on narrow roads :)
Just a few weeks ago my steering box started leaking. I haven't found any good and complete gasket kits, and even when you replace the gaskets, the uneven weare can never be rebuilt...
So I ordered a new one. Reminder: Toyota parts are not cheap :)
 
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