AHC removal / lift install

[Jon Wildsmith]

Maybe you could use a rachet strap? You need to know the closed lengths though so you can bump stop them. Did you get anywhere with different fittings for the bottom of the rears?

 

[Julian]

Jon
fronts 315mm closed
Rears 410mm closed
Best I can do with straps, I have put 6mm spacers in the front , to account for the adapters, for rears I had planned on 40mm but I might only need 15mm
I have been talking to fox in the states to find the ends I sent you a picture of, it looks like it is going to be a go'er but the might have to be urethane bushes rather than rose joints, not a problem from my end

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Those are good figures, can you edit your previous post to add them? If not I will Once you've sorted the mounting problems out that should be a very good setup. At most I'm only expecting to see an extra 15mm on the front open length of the Bilsteins over OEM/OME which of course translates into a bit more wheel travel than that figure but not a huge amount. There is also scope to space them down another 20mm or so once I know closed length so they can be bump stopped correctly.

 

[Julian]

You might as well add the figures to your post or perhaps start a separate thread on shock lengths
I guess the limiting factor on the front will be the top and bottom ball joints, as the lower wishbone extends down a fair way further

I am a little concerned about keeping the springs in at the back on full extension, I have a mate with a fork lift so will do some testing, I will post pics of my findings

 

[Julian]

I did get the measurements on the Koni RAID dampers as well
--- Koni RAID ---
FRONT OPEN = 290mm
FRONT CLOSED = 456mm
REAR OPEN = 390mm
REAR CLOSED = 622mm

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Think the closed and open might be reversed Do you know what points they measured?

 

[Julian]

Sorry, I don't, they came direct from Koni, I think you might be right to question the measuring points, they look a little short

 

[warrenpfo]

With the tops disconnected, I undid the anti-roll bar bolts at the chassis (2 x 12mm each side) so I could drop the ARB out of the way. Then I undid the lower shock mounting bolts (17mm), slid the shocks off and emptied them out into my oil tub. Mostly clear fluid came out but right at the bottom was some milky fluid, possibly the dissolved remains of my old sphere membranes.(

Sorry to bring this back to life but I plan on doing this over the next 2 weeks whilst the wife is away. What do you mean by Dropping the ARB? As the rest I get and can picture the process but not the bit in red.

If I would like to try and save the shocks what would you recommend I use to grip them and stop them from slipping?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

The ARB is connected to chassis mounts as well as the lower arms. I guess the ARB is in the way of the torsion bars so needs moving out of the way, I can't actually remember.

 

[uHu]

Does this help?
ARB = Anti Roll Bar (= Anti Sway Bar)
ARB = the initials of Anthony Ronald Brown - The manufacturer of 4x4 equipment.

 

[warrenpfo]

Agh Anti Roll Bar, that makes sense. Are they underload if the car is just sitting there?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

no, when they are level side to side they are not under load. If you lift one side so the suspension droops or stuff one side then there is some load on them.

 

[chugga90]

no, when they are level side to side they are not under load. If you lift one side so the suspension droops or stuff one side then there is some load on them.

I am just considering coming back to sensible Landcruiser ownership.
My question is, when taking out the AHC. Does anything need turning off in the electronics or is it just pull the fuse and disconnect? No warnings light up on the dash etc?
I ask as the possible cheap project has numerous lights on and has had the AHC swapped out for standard shocks etc!?
Thanks for any response.
Barry

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I removed the AHC ECU so I don't know if just pulling a fuse would work.