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B9003 sat nav unit and fitting reverse camera

I needed an iso to Toyota conversion harness and some plastic infill pieces as the existing opening is slightly larger than the double din Pioneer unit. I think the latter were for a Toyota Celicia which also fit the LC. I rang up Dynamic Sounds who told me their part numbers for those and then I ordered from them online. The bits weren’t v expensive and came really quickly. Incidentally if your Pioneer is anything like mine then it will support 2 cameras. So while I was about it under the dash I connected up some spare rca to the second input and coiled it in an accessible place so that I can install a front camera without having to remove the headunit and all the trim. I haven’t fitted the camera yet but I found a nice little camera that fits into the Toyota badge on the bonnet. That’s still on the to do list!
Great thanks - I’ve ordered the infill pieces as I’d seen a post on the land cruiser Facebook page about them. Haven’t got the iso harness though so will see if I can get one quickly as I’ve geared myself up to do it this weekend

thanks again for your help
 
Your work plan is pretty much spot on. !The boot door panel comes off fairly easily. Prise out the 2 small covers on the interior handle and then the handle pulls out with gentle force. Then in the net on the back door you will findn2 more small covers. Prise them out and underneath one of them is a Phillip screw -remove. Re
move the tool tray. Then use a thin blade to prise a bottom corner of the trim panel out enough to get your fingers in. Then gentle pressure and the first trim clip will come away from the door. Then work your way round with your fingers. No need to remove the top panel as the bottom one will pull out of the top one. Once the panel is off and one of the number plate lamps has been prised out it will be easy to mount the camera and route the wire into the boot door. There is an obvious but there as an earth point.
From the boot door take the cable into the rear driver side boot panel via the flexible rubber conduit. That is a fiddly job and I threaded a slightly flexible tube through as a puller for the cables.
The driver’s side boot panel doesn’t have to come off completely. Just unclip the vertical rear side aand the top and there will be enough room to pull cables through to the side of the rear seat.
At the rear seat take off the 2 small covers on the square tread plate. Then unbolt it. Then slide a thin blade under the trim at the rear door sill and gentle upward pressure to unclip it. Ditto at the drivers door sill. Ditto the quarter panel to the right of the accelerator having first unscrewed the plastic turn nut down there.
That should give you a clear run all the way.
If your camera is being powered by reverse then get the feed from the offside rear light. Unscrew the 2 bolts visible when the door is open and then slide the whole light unit backwards.

Hope that helps but ask if you need anything else.
Thanks for your help Adrian. Camera is all in and wire trained - one thing I’ve hit a block with is power. Understand about piggy backing on reverse light but the wires look to go to a central light then spur off. Did you piggy back off the wire behind the side panel and if so how did you know which was reverse?

thanks
 
I tapped into the wire right by the connector to the light. Don't remember which colour it was (and they may be different depending on your towbar connector), so just put it into reverse (without starting the engine!) and check which pin has 12V.
 
Same as Karl. I recall now initially being flummoxed in the same way as you. But then used a multimeter to work out which of the wires into the central point was carrying the reverse 12v+ and then branched off that wire to feed the camera and the reverse trigger wire.
 
great thanks (and Karl). Will go back out in the morning. All in apart from power and need to get new head unit in tomorrow
 
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Well...managed to make a problem for myself. New head unit in. Works fine. Camera in, not working. getting power and all wired in as per diagrams and head unit instructions.
Bigger problem - won’t start. Green flag say both batteries are fine but looks like alternator is goosed. He said I’ve done something that has killed the alternator. Getting someone to install it looks cheap now!
 
Hmmm... Don't worry, i don't think it can be much.

What exactly did you change since it last worked? You didn't knowingly short anything out did you - no bangs heard?

Not sure how you could have buggered the alternator tbh.

Even if the alternator was knackered I'd expect it to start OK with the batteries?

What exactly happens when you try to start it, can you post us a video?

Check all the fuses first, then maybe get the head unit / center section out again and make sure you haven't pinched any wires putting it back. The immobiliser is on the drivers side, and the ECU is on the passenger side so the wiring between them runs across behind your center console / headunit.
 
Tapped into reverse light wires for the camera, but otherwise a straight swap for the head unit, with the iso harness

no bangs heard and batteries still running at 12v. Green flag told me to put my lights on and said his meter dipped when they went on

when I start it it tries to turn over slowly but nothing comes of it. Started straightaway with green flags boost pack
 
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Can you charge the batteries?

Sounds like knackered batteries to me, if it started OK with a jump.

When it started, did he test the voltage at the battery terminals to see what the alternator was putting out?

BTW did you disconnect the batteries when you did your radio work? If so, are the battery connections good and tight?
 
they’re both at 11.8/12v so they read fine on the multimeter.
Yes I think that’s what he was saying about dipping (I have no mechanical knowledge if you haven’t guessed!)

I did and I’m certain they are but heading out now to check that and fuses...fingers crossed
 
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Sounds like the batteries probably need a charge. Even though they're called 12V batteries, you want 12.6V+ when its fully charged.

11.8V is basically flat and 12.0 is only 25% charged. You want it to be 12.6+ when fully charged. That would explain why its sluggish trying to start.

Has the truck been sitting there a while or has it had recent use? Maybe the batteries have just gone flat while its sitting there?

Once the engine is running, and the alternator is doing its thing, you want an initial voltage at the batteries of about 14.2 - 14.4V.

Good luck with fuses and connections - you're doing great and I really dont think its anything serious.
 
Ok. Hopefully that explains it a bit. Will try and get my hands on a charger

it’s had recent use. Mainly 5-10 miles journeys and then it will have had some time standing with interior lights on when I’ve been sorting the radio out and the doors open when chasing the camera wires

fuses are all fine and the terminals were tight so hopefully the batteries and a charge will sort that short term until I replace them
 
Great it will just be the batteries mate, be really surprised if it's anything else!
 
Thanks - will find out later. To add insult to injury I’ve taken the box out of my boot that has my jump leads in and turned it off at work so now need to go and get them, jump it and get it home to charge them!

thanks for your help - I’ve not come across a car forum in the past that has been this helpful
 
Paulnanrod, you didn't go to the right forum before then. haha.
I would go with batteries, as per Karl. Your description is what I had some while ago, on a 120 just bought.
Turned over sluggish and no start, just over 12v on both batteries, green light on both batteries, charge and still no different. Replaced both batteries, and now it's instant start.
Sorry if you already know this, but replace with a matched pair, and don't forget they are handed.
 
A third here fir charge the batteries. When I had the front and rear shocks changed by a local garage I paid the bill , jumped in and turned key and nothing happened. A quick booster pack by the garage and it started fine and has done ever since and voltages of batts fine. The only explanation I could think of was when they had the truck in the Ramp they had the doors open and ignition switched etc on so that batteries ran down. So before panic about the alternator Id give the batteries a good charge.
 
After having to leave my car at work last night I Managed to get a couple of hours charge on both and it started no problem to get home. Will charge them both fully overnight and keep an eye, replacing if needed

messed about with settings on the head unit and the camera is working too so double bonus. No mention on the instructions of having to go in and set camera feed to ‘on’. Assumed it would be on already

again, thanks for all of your help
 
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