The drive from Tirana Campsite to Lake Ohrid takes you round the Tirana 'circular', the A3 towards Elbasan and then on to the lake. The border between Albania and North Macedonia cuts through the lake. I got to the lake but ended up not stopping - there seemed to be limited stopping places on the road that ran along the shore. Or maybe I wasn't in the mood. I headed towards the next lake - Lake Prespa with the intention of driving the track along the Greek border that connects this lake to Small Prespa Lake. It was raining when I started climbing the track. The surface was intitally stoney, but quickly turned into slippery mud - the wrong kind of mud. I slid a couple of times and not knowing what the track was like up ahead, called it a day. With a second vehicle, or even a second person in the car, I may have continued but being solo, decided against it.
I headed towards Korce, stopping to fill with diesel and cash. Shortly after leaving Korce I pulled up at the side of a dirt track to camp for the night. In the morning (around 5.30 am) an old farmer came to say good morning, offering me is flask of plum brandy - too early for me. He took me to his orchard and plied my with apples and plums, for which he refused payment.
The road to Gjrokaster, the SH75, runs parallel to the Greek border. It is part new road, part not so good road and part abandonded old road where it is bypassed by a new road at Leskovik - an old farmer tried to discourage me from taking the now abandoned old road. Once past Carcove, the road follows the river Aoos.
I arrived in Gjrokaster in the rain. After visiting the shops I decided to visit the old fort on the hill. It was hot and humid. Not pleasant. I decided to drive up, following the gps - big mistake, the road passed through the old town, with narrow streets and with cars parked at the side of the wider bits. It was just/barely wide enough for the land cruiser to get through and with no possibility to turn around. The was parking was full near the fort, and I managed a 3 point turn and headed back down.