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Baselining My 80 / Overland Build

...so I got on with CDL work. I am doing this because I want to have the CDL switchable on Low Range to avoid the situation I described earlier where, on a steep tarmac descent, I wanted Low Range without CDL so could ease off the brakes which took a pounding to the extent they were kaput until they cooled. Fitting the switch was simple....2 screws behind the fag tray, 2 behind the storage above the radio and th fascia is ready to come off. Carefully pull off the facia and pop out the switch blanking plate. Then, taped onto the wiring loom for the other switches was the plug which has a female already on it with a bridging wire. This comes off and simply plugs on the switch. Job done, I am now have a switchable CDL in high range. Unplugging the transfer box wire near the rear flange results in a CDL which is fully switchable in Low and High Ranges. I can't believe the factory didn't do this on the production line, it's so simple and offers all the driving options we need.

My sentiments entirely Mark.

Imagine on mine, with a dash CDL switch already in place, the auto lock is just a retro step IMO. It's really useful having the choice. I'm mindful to switch the CDL in the event that one wheel may spin out in the soft stuff, because that could cause some over-stressing with such low gear torque available, but otherwise crawling, especially on steep grass (for example) is great with open diffs in Low. :thumbup:
 
My sentiments entirely Mark.

Imagine on mine, with a dash CDL switch already in place, the auto lock is just a retro step IMO. It's really useful having the choice. I'm mindful to switch the CDL in the event that one wheel may spin out in the soft stuff, because that could cause some over-stressing with such low gear torque available, but otherwise crawling, especially on steep grass (for example) is great with open diffs in Low. :thumbup:

Agreed Clive, I was thinking after my post whether the factory decision to omit the switch had anything to do with operating it while the car is in motion. I'm not sure whether you can, or what the consequence would be if you did and you weren't supposed to. I'm guessing someone on the forum knows the answer.
 
You can lock it on the move. I think the hand book says anything up 60 mph. I'd have to check but it's only low range you have to stop to engage. Even lockers can be put in at 5 mph.
 
You can lock it on the move. I think the hand book says anything up 60 mph. I'd have to check but it's only low range you have to stop to engage. Even lockers can be put in at 5 mph.

thanks Chris, useful to know:thumbup:
 
Obviously sense has to prevail. I wouldn't lock mine whilst doing 50 in a 4 wheel drift on tarmac in a hairpin bend. But on the straight with deep puddles ahead on the motorway, I have locked mine countless times. It makes a big difference to stability.
 
I think the only time you could do damage switching the CDL on the "run" as it were, is if you had a wheel spinning out while almost stationary.

That would give quite a jolt on the transmission IMO. I always take care to let a spinning wheel come to rest before operating any of the locks, centre, rear or front.

The vehicle on the move at moderate speed would allow the CDL to engage more freely if anything, I would have thought.... but only guessing.
 
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Wise words Clive, thanks.

Yesterday, I had my clutch replaced by a garage up the road here in France. I dropped it off and less than 3 hours later the job was done and done well. I'm pleased to say my initial judder has gone. The parts that came out weren't genuine and the face of the pressure plate was blued. The clutch wasn't slipping but after reversing up slopes you could feel that the pedal was higher than normal after heating up. I think I caught it just in time - phew.

New proper wheel nuts and rear diff lock have arrived, just got to make time to fit them now. It's too damn hot here right now to work in the afternoons, 33 today, going up to 38 next week.
 
New proper wheel nuts and rear diff lock have arrived, just got to make time to fit them now. It's too damn hot here right now to work in the afternoons, 33 today, going up to 38 next week.

38/39 - & we have all the big gardens to work on next week! bugger!
 
Today I made use of that little slot above the radio which if you are lucky has a cup holder.

Since I removed the original radio, my Brodit iPad holder no longer fits. For those that know them, they are 3 part. One fits the device. That screws into a ball/socket affair which in turn screws onto a piece of plastic designed to fit the particular car. It's a very good design and I've had several for different cars. All have been robust and solid mounts.

this is what I couldn't use anymore and how it used to fit. It simply clips in gaps between the trim.

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This is it close up

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Whilst it is a good design, the only issue was that it covered up the radio and made it hard to get to the controls.

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So I took it apart and cut off the bit I wanted, which is on the right

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Then, using a simple angle bracket, it riveted and araldited it in place on the upper edge of the plastic form (funny where they secreted the next service history date in the early days of its life)

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This is it, in place

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And this his is it from afar

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I'm quite pleased with the result. It's pretty solid and now above the radio pretty much in the right place for me as we have the garmin stuck to the windscreen normally
 
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That's also what I used it for in almost exactly the same way!

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Don't now why some vehicles got the cup holder and some the much less useful card slot thingy. Came in useful in the end though I guess!
 
That's also what I used it for in almost exactly the same way!

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Don't now why some vehicles got the cup holder and some the much less useful card slot thingy. Came in useful in the end though I guess!

very nice, great minds and all that ...

I presume the cupholder was an option, though I can't imagine it would have cost much, so why not tick the box?
 
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We decided to go away for a few days and the blooming Tmax split charge solenoid seems to have gone kaput. does anyone know of better replacement ?
 
Today I had the tyres rotated front to back and discovered the Portuguese technique used to re-attach the front disc and hub assembly :shock:. The must have been a truly BFH with a BF idiot on the end of it :oops:. Brand new genuine disk it was.

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We decided to go away for a few days and the blooming Tmax split charge solenoid seems to have gone kaput. does anyone know of better replacement ?

I replaced mine with an ordinary relay. Here it is (took cover off for photo) sitting where the 24v swap over relay used to be....
 

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Well, today I took the damaged disc and hub off for close inspection and found that not only did they put the disc on crooked and have to hammer it home resulting in huge distortion of the face the wheel clamps to but also, they ground off the hub centric lip on the hub :icon-eek:. Can't imagine why as the wheel located fine when I worked on it.

photos don't really show it too well but anyway :cry:

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sadly, I'm off the road until new parts arrive.

on the upside, fitted the new rear diff lock yesterday.

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WTF? Un freaking believable


:angry-screaming::angry-screaming:
 
With animals (and that's an insult to an animal BTW) like that around, I feel justified in my dogged attempts to maintain my truck myself. It makes all the work and swearing worth while.
 
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