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Bonnet gas strut

Aeroelastic

Aeroelastic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
283
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uk
Hi anyone knows if there are gas struts that suit 90 series bonnet instead of the stick that need to be propped every time the bonnet is opened? Will be quite handy
 
I wouldn't imagine there is anything special about the 90 that requires it to have non standard gas struts. Just measure up what is on there and replace from any decent supplier. I can't remember who I used when I replaced the ones on my 105 but it wasn't Toyota.
 
I'm the opposite... I want a stick for our 80 instead of the struts! Currently the struts work if I use some vice grips to lock them up....

Why more manufacturers don't do sprung hinges like I had on my Volvo, I don't know... You got flick a lever and then the bonnet would go to vertical
 
oh ok, I might have miss understood.... I had assumed that the original gas struts have broken and that a literal stick is being used to hold the bonnet open, as in my case (I actually used a broom handle). If you mean the original system is a stick but you want gas struct then thats a bigger job....

*crawls back under stone*
 
Paddler Ed said:
Why more manufacturers don't do sprung hinges like I had on my Volvo, I don't know... You got flick a lever and then the bonnet would go to vertical
Click to expand...

My old Mercedes did that 20 years ago - brilliant for access! The next mercedes I had didn't - progress eh!

Wonder what they do these days....
 
Yes I am more on getting the stick system replaced by a self supported system, sprung or gas struts don’t really matter. It’s more for the convenience. And the 90 bonnet is not light.
 
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Not as easy as it sounds methinks. Need the weight of the bonnet, calculate the newton pressure of strut required then work out the length (open/closed), then work out where it will mount inside the compartment. There are universal kits and just had a look at my 90 engine bay and thought...…. I'd keep the arm IMO
 
Mick W said:
Not as easy as it sounds methinks. Need the weight of the bonnet, calculate the newton pressure of strut required then work out the length (open/closed), then work out where it will mount inside the compartment. There are universal kits and just had a look at my 90 engine bay and thought...…. I'd keep the arm IMO
Click to expand...

Found this from Australia:

www.strutyourstuff.net.au

90 Series Prado Bonnet Strut Kit

IF ORDERING FROM OUTSIDE OF AUSTRALIA...YOU MUST CONTACT US FIRST FOR A POSTAGE QUOTE TO YOUR COUNTRY!Do away with the bloody stick! Easy to fit kits. Use original mounting points plus ONE SUPPLIED TEK SCREW EITHER SIDE, OR YOU COULD RIVET IN PLAC...
www.strutyourstuff.net.au
 
Hmm, interesting. My inner wing doesn't look to have enough clearance for a strut or struts when closed. Could be the 90 in AU is different? Does say to check there's nothing in the way. Would be good to know if anyone else has done and which piece of kit they used. I'd do it if I could see it done elsewhere first, wouldn't want that bonnet on my head cos I miscalculated something :doh:
 
Take all that back. Just rechecked the inner wing and bonnet clearance and the bonnet shape probably does have enough clearance for a small strut. Sorry
 
If you decide to go ahead with these struts let me know. They might do a better deal (even if just on the P&P) for a couple of sets? :think::thumbup:
 
keep the metal bonnet stay for when it's windy
i have a strong stick to hold the bonnet and stop the wind from closing it on me...
 
Mick W said:
If you decide to go ahead with these struts let me know. They might do a better deal (even if just on the P&P) for a couple of sets? :think::thumbup:
Click to expand...
I have emailed the Australia company, for more details etc. And see if they will consider any group buy.

Will update...
 
diggerdave said:
Mainly break down (from the mid-90s onward). My 95 c-class and my mate's 94 e-class both died through rotten wiring, specially designed to biodegrade :icon-rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Was it the engine loom or something else?

I remember there was a problem with early 90's S classes where the engine wiring loom would disintegrate! I used to have a 97 S class (proper old W140) and it was great, but unfortunately rust saw it off after 16 years.

I've also got a 99 C class - still going strong!
 
karl2000 said:
Was it the engine loom or something else?

I remember there was a problem with early 90's S classes where the engine wiring loom would disintegrate! I used to have a 97 S class (proper old W140) and it was great, but unfortunately rust saw it off after 16 years.

I've also got a 99 C class - still going strong!
Click to expand...

There seems much mystery about the disintegrating wiring and exactly which models were affected and when. You can read some quite definitive statements online, lotsof which are slightly different. It is a real phenomenon though! Merc made a big deal about their new, environmentally-friendly biodegradable wiring. Either intentionally or not it kills lots of mid-90s mercs. I thought my W202 C-class was immune because it ran so well, right up to the point when it didn't and suddenly dropped to two cylinders.

The main engine loom connecting the ECU to the coil packs started to flake apart, possibly a long time ago - it's all hidden below the inlet manifold - and eventually led to a spike that fried the non-repairable ECU. It is possible to get replacement looms, and only second-hand ECUs, but it was just not worth the hassle and cost in my case. Exactly the same killed off my mate's E-class from 1994 (I think). His might have been worth repairing, but there were other problems too.

Until this happened I thought Mercs might be my 'second Toyota' - but I might stay Jap from now on.
 
There are a couple of Youtubers who've done this mod to a 3rd Gen Four Runner in the US which is a very similar design to the Colorado. Search for Timmy The Toolman and Faye Hadley.
 
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