Can't find shocks for a 4 inch lift

[Julian T]

If it helps, probably not, my wish list is for slinky suspension set up as per Julian V @ Overland Cruisers.
At the moment I have the OME set up and to start with I found it a bit firm and the rear axle was prone to skipping over bumps, especially when empty.
Also my springs have started to sag and Thirsty has a distinct lean now that the springs are about 8 years old, two of the shocks have failed and I refitted the original shocks bar two which I replaced, thanks to Karl.

 

[Shayne]

Some Slinky porn for you Julian https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/box-rocket-1995-fzj80-build.135579/page-32

 

[Julian T]

Some Slinky porn for you Julian https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/box-rocket-1995-fzj80-build.135579/page-32

hmmm, yes, prn indeed, stage 4 is what I was looking at, like I say it's on my wish list lol.

 

[Shayne]

It's more than i need current thinking is the 80 will just be my forever car it just doesn't tick a number of the right boxes in its standard form , i just agreed to purchase a tuning chip and adjustable upper arms for my 90 so that's an ongoing project too .

 

[Julian T]

Sadly my 80 is both a daily and a "expedition" truck, so she is a little heavy hence needing suspension that can cope with various demands of being used, saying that the 80 in that link of yours is enviably clean underneath, must have spent it's life somewhere dry.

And as you know, no car is ever complete when it comes to making it the way you want it lol.

 

[stumog]

I do love my one heavies. Empty or overloaded it's amazing.

I didn't find then to stiff as some people have done.

I run mine very empty and often loaded up to the roof with wood while towing a full trailer offroad. Always great ride

 

[clivehorridge]

Now i have options i find myself torn .

The fact Clive has been using the same OME (and he does use it more than most) since dinosaurs walked is a huge plus - but , sorry Clive , his is the only other 80 i've ever driven or been an offroad passenger in and i don't like the boat like feel . It's no bad thing though my current and perhaps original suspension is remarkably comfortable but personally i find that a tad boring because i do like to feel what i'm driving on .

Do i gamble on OME shocks and Pedders springs or just collect my truck lifted and drive away from Westcoast .

I am aware its hard to advise on personal preference but i don't want to buy twice so any thoughts appreciated .

The difficulty here Shayne, is getting the balance right, which I’m sure you’re aware of.

Too stiff and you lose articulation (noting that your 90 spent most of its time on 3 wheels not 4) and the opposite ‘boat’ effect.

I’m guessing that someone like Slee can set you up with exactly what you want, with progressive springs, and super graduated dampers, all fit for Dakar, and all at a hefty price and I’m envious if you go that route.

My OME kit was a once-only order and it’s lasted. I’m still pleased with it, but I do recognize it’s not perfect. It cost me a €1,200 and I’ve spent a couple of hundred since playing with the castor angles... almost there, but now I’m trying to get a bit of clearance between the steering track arm and the suspension arm, it’s fouling by a hair’s breath ATM.

Good luck mate, it’s not easy....

 

[Lorin]

It's worth having a read of this thread as it contains a good number of suspension options for the 80 https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/co...ponent-spec-thread-shocks-coils-more.1026595/

Part of what sets the slinky kit apart from other options is the use of a dual rate spring with a longer free height. This improves both articulation and ride when loaded/unloaded. OME also do dual rate springs but not with any carrying capacity. The other factor is the shocks which are very high end. Slinky are also valved specifically for the 80 and are designed for heavy touring vehicles - Australian style.

I have chosen to pair the Iron Man Foam Cell Pros with another dual rate spring with heavy carrying capacity - Tourflex http://www.trail-tailor.com/store/p65/TourFlex_Coil_Springs_-_Front_80_Series.html and http://www.trail-tailor.com/store/p56/TourFlex_Coil_Springs__-_Rear_80_100_Series_.html I tried to buy a set of Slinky springs but the 'seller' just stopped responding to emails....

It's worth noting that OME shocks are vavled quite firm. In my opinion the most important factor is matching the springs rating to your 80's weight. West Coast have good real world experience of running different shock and spring set-ups. Given the two options you mentioned, I'd put my money there.

 

[chapel gate]

I also find the ride of my ome shocks and springs a little harsh. this may be because im not always in the sweet spot weight wise.
I often use mountain bike tech as a reference point, this is because even the slightest tweak is very noticeable and they are both off road machines. suspension comes with a medium weight spring as standard, light weight and heavy weight are a after sale option, which spring you choose depends on the weight of the rider and kit. any spring has to have a degree of sag, this means the spring is always slightly compressed so that it can extend and drop into the bottom of a pot hole for example in a micro second to keep the tyre in contact with the ground. the spring supports the weight of the vehicle while the shock controls the damping, the up and down motion. with out a shock the spring would bounce up and down like a pogo stick. there are two types of compression, high speed and low speed. low speed is a gentle up and down undulation whilst high speed is a square edged object where the shock has to compress potentially its full travel in a micro second. then there is rebound, this is where the shock has to extend again quick enough to be ready for the next hit, too slow and the suspension will pack down and compress as its not extending quick enough, to fast and you get the pogo stick effect.
what controls the damping depends on the quality of shock, higher end shocks have a series of ports and shims, ports let a controlled amount of air or oil through, shims deflect under pressure to let a controlled amount of air or oil through.
the spring itself can also be tuned or linear. thinner coils at the bottom for small bump sensitivity and thicker wider spaced at the top so that they stiffen up through there travel for load carrying/big hits. again, depends on the quality of spring.

im rambling, but the principle is the same.

 

[clivehorridge]

I also find the ride of my ome shocks and springs a little harsh. this may be because im not always in the sweet spot weight wise.
I often use mountain bike tech as a reference point, this is because even the slightest tweak is very noticeable and they are both off road machines. suspension comes with a medium weight spring as standard, light weight and heavy weight are a after sale option, which spring you choose depends on the weight of the rider and kit. any spring has to have a degree of sag, this means the spring is always slightly compressed so that it can extend and drop into the bottom of a pot hole for example in a micro second to keep the tyre in contact with the ground. the spring supports the weight of the vehicle while the shock controls the damping, the up and down motion. with out a shock the spring would bounce up and down like a pogo stick. there are two types of compression, high speed and low speed. low speed is a gentle up and down undulation whilst high speed is a square edged object where the shock has to compress potentially its full travel in a micro second. then there is rebound, this is where the shock has to extend again quick enough to be ready for the next hit, too slow and the suspension will pack down and compress as its not extending quick enough, to fast and you get the pogo stick effect.
what controls the damping depends on the quality of shock, higher end shocks have a series of ports and shims, ports let a controlled amount of air or oil through, shims deflect under pressure to let a controlled amount of air or oil through.
the spring itself can also be tuned or linear. thinner coils at the bottom for small bump sensitivity and thicker wider spaced at the top so that they stiffen up through there travel for load carrying/big hits. again, depends on the quality of spring.

im rambling, but the principle is the same.

Ramble on Mike, it got interesting when you were talking about rebound on bike suspension. My old 2002 Merida Cobra and the new(er) Scott X3 now have the same Marzocchi Bomber 888 forks and although a bit heavy, they’re a pleasure to tune and ride downhill.

Get the rebound wrong, and they’re all over the place and you with them.

 

[Shayne]

I was all set to go the Westcoat route and today i got a reply from Superior Engineering in Oz - i've heard good things about Dobinsons springs and the shocks look slinky to me ?

 

[clivehorridge]

I was all set to go the Westcoat route and today i got a reply from Superior Engineering in Oz - i've heard good things about Dobinsons springs and the shocks look slinky to me ?

Ben uses (has used) Dobinsons I think....

 

[Lorin]

I was all set to go the Westcoat route and today i got a reply from Superior Engineering in Oz - i've heard good things about Dobinsons springs and the shocks look slinky to me ?

Dobinsons are good springs. All depends on what type of spring you want and what weight capacity you need. Dobinsons don’t do any of the dual rate flexi coils with any decent weight carrying capacity. What they do offer is a very large selection of single rate springs meaning you can get a good match to your trucks weight. Make sure you weigh your truck in the set-up you want the suspension to work best - Dobinsons will then get the right match.

 

[Shayne]

Another spanner in the works

"Quick Question - Is your 80 Series Part time 4wd, or Full Time 4wd?
The Full Time 4wd 80 Series have driveline vibration issues at 4 Inches of lift, so a Part Time Kit will also need to be installed."

I think i'm correct in assuming a 97 UK spec Amazon 80 is permanent 4x4 and if so i absolutely do not want part time 4x4 ,

I'm thinking well others have a 4 inch lift so is it really necessary ?

 

[Chris]

Yes, your 80 is full time, permanent. There's a bit of semantics here so let's forget the definitions and work with descriptions. Some 4x4s only send drive to the front (or back in some cases) on demand. ie they decide because they detect the need. Some only send it when you push a button or lever. The 80 with its viscous coupling sends drive to the front and back all of the time. You cannot deselect that option. It's one of the reasons I love it so much. It's proper! Let's not start an argument about lockers and cross axle-ing etc, the reality is that the 80 has an advantage over many other vehicles in this respect. So for one, I would not want to disable the function - ever.

Now, as to 4" lift vibration, I am not sure who says this is true. I have a 4" lift and I don't get vibration. Yes I did have a whole host of issues with my drive line, but that was nothing to do with vibration. Having no bearings left in the front diff contributed to most of the problems. It does screw up your prop angles and therefore fitting drop boxes is the right thing, or cranked arms of course.

So why is a 4" lift necessary? I don't know that it is. I needed a 4" lift rather than wanted one, and the reality was that there were consequences with what I wanted to do. I have added a tremendous amount of weight to my 80 and in order to support the weight and give enough travel under load, I really had to go higher. Standard height springs that would take something like +700 kgs would have been as thick as a tree with no flex. I also wanted to fit 35's because that's what I had in the shed.

I also fitted a lift to Silver Phoenix and 37's tyres. You could drive that on the motorway at 70 all day. That vehicle was almost empty so pretty light and sat closer to 6" higher. That didn't vibrate either.

Lifting an 80 properly really shouldn't cause any problems. But why do YOU want to?

 

[grantw]

"Quick Question - Is your 80 Series Part time 4wd, or Full Time 4wd?
The Full Time 4wd 80 Series have driveline vibration issues at 4 Inches of lift, so a Part Time Kit will also need to be installed."

The part time kit is a common mod in Australia - So I guess that question came from Superior Engineering? Personally I love handling in a full time 4x4 and disabling that seems a little crazy.

 

[clivehorridge]

The part time kit is a common mod in Australia - So I guess that question came from Superior Engineering? Personally I love handling in a full time 4x4 and disabling that seems a little crazy.

Agreed.

I’ve never driven mine with the front prop off, but I’d imagine it would understeer something wicked in RWD only.

Never had vibration issues with mine, yes of course there’s more angle on the drive line but it doesn’t give any adverse symptoms when driving. I’m ready to accept that the UJs may need replacing more frequently, but having only had to replace one at the diff end of the front prop in 200k Kim’s since the lift, I don’t see this as anything dramatic.

Keep everything well-greased and away you go.

Reasons for a lift @Chris ?

Well IMO it’s mostly personal like why do you prefer blondes/brunettes as well as practical reasons like going off-road and wanting extra travel, or tyre sizes. I’m running 33” (just under) and I’m contemplating 35s if I can find the tyre I want in that size... but in any event, my 12 year old 140mm lift (which may be closer to 4” after all this time) gives me no problems, except it’s taken me a while to get the castor angle something near acceptable.

Each to their own, I say... and good luck with yours Shayne.

 

[Shayne]

Lifting an 80 properly really shouldn't cause any problems. But why do YOU want to?

Because for me the 80 is not a good looking truck its just a very comfortable small heavy goods vehicle , its mine and i will keep it because i respect its strengths and maybe - just maybe , i can turn mine into the truck it should have been , or at least one that fits me .

Against all my better instincts i might even consider buying a French built white car if it looked vaguely like this

All things can be fixed - each to their own yeah

 

[chapel gate]

Agreed.

I’ve never driven mine with the front prop off, but I’d imagine it would understeer something wicked in RWD only.

Never had vibration issues with mine, yes of course there’s more angle on the drive line but it doesn’t give any adverse symptoms when driving. I’m ready to accept that the UJs may need replacing more frequently, but having only had to replace one at the diff end of the front prop in 200k Kim’s since the lift, I don’t see this as anything dramatic.

Keep everything well-greased and away you go.

Reasons for a lift @Chris ?

Well IMO it’s mostly personal like why do you prefer blondes/brunettes as well as practical reasons like going off-road and wanting extra travel, or tyre sizes. I’m running 33” (just under) and I’m contemplating 35s if I can find the tyre I want in that size... but in any event, my 12 year old 140mm lift (which may be closer to 4” after all this time) gives me no problems, except it’s taken me a while to get the castor angle something near acceptable.

Each to their own, I say... and good luck with yours Shayne.

Blondes/ brunettes, going off road and wanting extra travel?
Clive, what.. Oh never mind...

 

[clivehorridge]

Blondes/ brunettes, going off road and wanting extra travel?
Clive, what.. Oh never mind...

At my age Mike, the dreams are more vivid than reality, so read into this what you choose, they will all be correct