Can't physically remove front diff lock actuator

[Garfieldus]

Front locker not working and noticed that the breather is not attached. I expect its full of water and corroded at this stage.

I’ve removed the electrics and the three retainers from the actuator (one bolt and one nut bottom and one nut top) but can’t get it to budge. I’ve tapped the top of the actuator from the front using a long bar and hammer and levered the bottom but not a budge. I don’t want to use too much force and maybe break the housing.

Any ideas what’s holding it in place?

 

[Chris]

Yes. It's the old dissimilar metal syndrome I'm afraid. It's probably the boss that fits into the steel diff. The actuator is on a small dowel too so you can't really twist it. Really if it's that for gone, the best thing to do is smash it off and save the time and inevitable conclusion. You may also find that if you have taken the nut off and the stud has stayed in then it's also corroded to the stud. Try lock-nutting that out with a bit of heat and spray.

 

[Garfieldus]

Thanks Chris. The top stud stayed in place but the bottom came out and is clean and free moving. I actually had it off about two years ago for the first time (in my ownership) and it came off no problem and was in very good condition. I'll keep tapping and hope for the best.

Thanks for your help.

 

[IRLGW]

Agree with Chris you need SST 001

 

[Chris]

Well that's encouraging. But as I say if it doesn't work then the chances of getting going again are few. But you're a patient and determined chap I know, so keep at it buddy.

 

[IRLGW]

is there an option to fit a blanking plate to the front as can be done at the rear if the motor housing is removed? Or is the shape to complex

 

[Chris]

A wine cork will fit.

 

[Garfieldus]

Yeah, if I smash it, I'll be off the road until I get a replacement. Amayama seems to have the best price.

I've seen air operated actuators on youtube etc. but I think they were just one offs and I don't think there's any alternative to oem. On the other hand I'm asking myself do I really need it? When was the last time I used it in anger? Should I just bolt it up again and leave it?

 

[Chris]

I like those. The rear is a simple affair as it's just a push pull jobbie. The front one is still ultimately linear movement but driven on a rack. I would blank off the motor port and use the access cover to the end of the locking ring guide rod to attach a solenoid to. Much simpler design than the original. The air acts as its own tensioner.

 

[IRLGW]

It depends where you go Garfield, If you are ever towing a heavy trailer in a muddy field, reverse out of a snow drift or pull an atm from a petrol station then it can be useful. There must be second hand units. there is a chap in North Louth breaking land cruisers including an 80, he advertises on donedeal. I don't think the fronts are as sought after as the rears. If you let your power steering box weep on top of it wont corrode (believe me)

 

[Garfieldus]

Got the *&^%er without breaking anything although the casing is a bit dinged.

It was being held by the top stud, lots of corrosion. Now, two years ago, I put that back on after gluing two of the magnets on. I'd swear I put something on those studs (bottom stud was perfect) but can't remember what. The boss that fits into the steel diff was fine too.

What's best to put on the studs when I'm putting it back? Any point in drilling the hole out by 0.5mm before refitting? The actuator will be positioned by the bottom stud and bolt and the dowel anyway.

 

[Towpack]

The galvanic corrosion can be reduced by electrically isolating the two dissimilar metals so I’d use some form of dielectric grease on the stud. Going on your comments, if the top stud isn’t that important for positive location of the locker housing then enlarging the hole slightly will certainly help.

 

[Chris]

What about something like Hylomar? Actually, maybe just spraying the studs and the bore of the hole with something like gloss paint might prevent that corrosion. The ultimate location is the central pinion boss so a slightly enlarged hole shouldn't really matter. I'd clean and paint the body of the locker too.

 

[IRLGW]

Duralac. Put it on the stud and let it dry before putting it in though. You could maybe wriggle a 'same size' drill bit in there as the corrosion will have caused some swelling of the metal. Check the stud isnt bent though. If it doesnt dry fit easily then it may not come off again easily.

 

[flint]

I've found this stuff good, I've still got some from when it was made by Pauls. Can't seem to find anywhere selling single units, but maybe a few phone calls might track some down: https://www.silmid.com/lubricants/anti-seize-lubricants/molypaul-pbc-anti-seize-500gm-tin/

 

[Garfieldus]

This is what I was greeted with when I removed the cover.

Once it was removed, the motor turned no problem by hand so connected it up to 12v and it's running in both directions. I reckon it's just a clean up job.

Why do these a breather?

 

[clivehorridge]

This is what I was greeted with when I removed the cover.

Once it was removed, the motor turned no problem by hand so connected it up to 12v and it's running in both directions. I reckon it's just a clean up job.

Why do these a breather?

View attachment 142968

To vent them and stop corrosion...